What type of stain/dye/gel for a large bookshelf/built-in project

[Chris Atzinger]

Hi,

I have a large bookshelf/desk project that will be built from maple lumber, maple ply, and quilted maple veneer. I would like to darken it all to a med/dark brownish.

What should I use to darken all of these parts? I've always used transtint in DNA on anything with figure/curl (like the quilted maple), but feel like that is going to be a challenge and very expensive on something so big. If I use a stain, i am worried about muting the figure in the veneer.

I have an earlex 5000 to spray a finish, but it is still pretty new to me.

What would you guys use?

What about the finish? shellac/varnish/poly?

Thanks!
Chris


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[Scott Holmes]

Spraying the DNA dye would be my method. You should practice on scrap; spraying dye is nothing like spraying paint.

Stain is not a good idea. Finishing before assembly/installation will make it easier.

FYI: Poly IS varnish. Poly is a varnish best suited for floors; however, many people use it on furniture, I like the higher quality varnishes on furniture. Poly is the least expensive varnish to make, thus it is cheapest to buy, also the most profitable for the manufacturers. Hmmm, wonder if that's why it gets all the advertising money.

[Pete McMahon]

Poly is an economical and profitable finish for the companies to make. Hmmmm, lower priced automobiles are ecomonical and profitable for companies to make.They get a lot of advertising money.What do you drive?

[Chris Atzinger]

Hi Scott,

Is there a less expensive option than Transtint? If I recall my Woodcraft sells 2oz for $20, which will make 1-2 quarts. Honestly, though, I have no idea how much I will need on a project this size (I don't usually build things this big!).

Thanks!
Chris

[Matt Meiser]

2QT of dye stain for $20 is a great price.

[Prashun Patel]

If the price of Transtint sweats you, consider Transfast. It's in powder form and hence more concentrated; you don't pay for the small amt of diluent to make it liquid. The downside of transfast is it's a *little* more fussy to mix, but it works out to be cheaper than the 'tint. For my money, I prefer Transtint for ease of mixing.

I am an inexperienced sprayer, and only have a cheap sprayer; not the Earlex. I can tell you that spraying aniline dye is easier than anything. Mix yr dye thin. Spray on multiple coats and sneak up on your color. The only thing to keep in mind is that aniline dye dries to a lighter/duller tint than it will look when topcoated. How it looks when it's wet is how it'll look when topcoated. However, when spraying in dna, it dries so fast, by the time you get to the end of a panel, the place where you started may be dry, giving the illusion that you applied too little, and making you feel that you have to go over it again immediately. This can lead to uneven application of parts. You have to discipline yrself to spray at the same rate over the whole piece. Let it ALL dry (this can be as short as minutes), then only reapply.

[Scott Holmes]

I use both TransFast and TransTint dyes. I like both of them. Water only TransFast is a bit more colorfast and is easier to apply as a first timer spraying dye.

[Prashun Patel]

Scott, I know Transfast is water soluble, but isn't it also ethanol soluble? You mentioned "water only"....

[Matt Meiser]

Arent there water and alcohol version of Transfast?

[John TenEyck]

You can do a very large project with one $20 bottle of Transtint dye. It has to be one of the best finishing product bargains going. You have spent how much money on your project to this point and how many hours? Why would you worry about $20 for a product that will have a huge impact on how it's going to look?

John

[Stew Hagerty]

Hi, just a thought that I didn't see anyone else mention. You say that you are using various types oIf maple in your project and maple blotches. I would recommend some form of blotch control. What I like to do is spray on a thin coat of half pound cut shellac. Then I spray on the dye. I usually use GF water based dyes, although I sometimes do use a powdered metal-complex type. If you decide to use the alcohol based dye then blotching isn't as bad, but I'd still use something just in case. Always better safe than sorry.

[Prashun Patel]

I am no pro, but I have not had blotch issues when spraying aniline dye in DNA.

[Pete McMahon]

Prashun,
Dyes are specifically marked in what they are soluble in: water, alcohol or oil. Obviously water and alcohol are miscible but there is a distinct difference when mixing.
Some dyes such as Bismark Brown are listed as soluble in both alcohol and water as a secondary. Yet when you dissolve it in water the brilliance of the color is greatly diminished.
I'm sure Trans Fast comes in all solubility's.I don't use Trans Fast but isn't that Homestead's line of dyes? If so just call Jeff for his advice.

[Stew Hagerty]

I am no pro, but I have not had blotch issues when spraying aniline dye in DNA.

I've only sprayed DNA dyes a few times and, I admit, never on maple. I guess I'm just overly cautious. Prashun, do you use a retarder when you spray DNA soluble dyes in general?

[Prashun Patel]

I too have only sprayed a couple times but I have done it on maple and cherry and poplar.

I have not used a retarder. I wouldn't think you'd want one on a blotch prone wood. Thinness and fast drying are yr friends on blotchy woods, no? It's the reason shellac tends to work well as a sealer on such woods.

[Chris Atzinger]

Thanks for the input. I am probably going to go with the Transtint as I am most familiar with that.

Once I get the dye on, what would you use to put the protective clear coats on? shellac? some type of varnish?

Thanks!
Chris