Freud dado width problem?

[Shawn Christ]

I have a Freud SD208 8" dado set used in my Grizzly 1023L cabinet saw and recently noticed a problem with the dado cut width. As you all know, the two outer cutters should produce a 1/4" size dado. But mine is cutting 15/64" and for the life of me I cannot figure out why. I've triple-checked my setup and see no problems -- there are no missing teeth or chips, no unusual wear along the outside of either cutter, and both outer blade edges are facing outward. The set is 4 or 5 years old and has never been sharpened (limited use). I typically cut wider dadoes and don't recall a problem when using chippers; I rarely cut 1/4" dadoes, so I'm not sure how long this has been a problem. I really can't believe that 4 or 5 years of limited use could wear down the carbide edges. Might this be a problem with the set? I see there is a "limited" lifetime warranty, maybe I should call Freud customer service and see what they say.

[doug faist]

Just a guess, Shawn, but I would venture that Freud MADE the set slightly undersized to compensate for the 1/4" plywood that is so rarely a full 1/4". That's gap can easily made to fit perfectly with the shims provided.

My Amana set cuts at exactly 1/4" and that can be a problem sometimes for this reason.

Doug

[John Coloccia]

The 208 chart says it should cut 1/4" with the two outer blades, but it's easy enough to add one of their .012" shims and that should fix you right up. I would call them, though, as you suggested. I'd just be curious to know what they had in mind and if they've just not updated their chart.

I guess one question would be are the blades oriented the right way? I'm not sure if it mattes on that set which blade is on the outside. Maybe if they're backwards they cut undersized? It would depend how the teeth are cut.

[Shawn Christ]

Doug, I suppose that's possible. I've heard that is the case with other sets, but the "1/4" plywood I have runs around 13/64" and too thin for this dado size. Plus the cut table on the package clearly says that the outer cutters will give you a 1/4" cut.
You're right, I can use the shims but I find it to be an unnecessary hassle.

[Shawn Christ]

... I guess one question would be are the blades oriented the right way? I'm not sure if it mattes on that set which blade is on the outside. Maybe if they're backwards they cut undersized? It would depend how the teeth are cut.

Good thought, I checked for that. I don't think there is a right or left on this set, but both blades are labeled "this side out", which is correct on my setup.

[Jamie Buxton]

On my 15-year-old SD206, the outside blades have what looks like a shim permanently glued to the inside faces. Well, it is supposed to be permanently glued. On my set, each of the shims has come unglued. I've stuck them back on with superglue, and they've worked worked perfectly since then. Do you have both shims on your blades?

[Matt Day]

I've got the Freud set as well and to be honest I never checked if it cut exactly 1/4" and whatever the other dimensions say. But that's the point of the shims - to make minute adjustments to get to where you need to be. As stated above, what is labeled as 1/4" in the store/yard never really comes to 1/4" so you need to adjust.

[Jake Helmboldt]

Well, you could have the opposite problem. I just got a CMT dado set and the two outer blades are slightly thick (by .015") meaning I can't cut an actual 1/4" dado. Likewise I have to account for that slight variance in every setup since the cut is always fat by that .015".

[Shawn Christ]

On my 15-year-old SD206, the outside blades have what looks like a shim permanently glued to the inside faces. Well, it is supposed to be permanently glued. On my set, each of the shims has come unglued. I've stuck them back on with superglue, and they've worked worked perfectly since then. Do you have both shims on your blades?

Jamie, no attached shims on my 208.


I've got the Freud set as well and to be honest I never checked if it cut exactly 1/4" and whatever the other dimensions say. But that's the point of the shims - to make minute adjustments to get to where you need to be. As stated above, what is labeled as 1/4" in the store/yard never really comes to 1/4" so you need to adjust.

Matt, I disagree to a certain extent, and I'm curious if you have the same issue. It seems, with this particular set, it's not necessary to waste time guessing and "dialing in" to get to 1/4". The chart says use blades A and B for a 1/4" cut, no shims. If I want a 1/2" dado I know I need A, B, and two D chippers. An 11/32" cut: A, B, C, and shims 3 and 5. That's the beauty of the chart, saves time with no guesswork. Shims are required for all X/32" cuts and a 7/8" cut, or like you say, to dial in UNUSUAL sizes such as 1/4 plywood. But in this case, I'm not using plywood, I'm using floating hardwood strips. And sometimes I use hardboard which is still true to size. Maybe I'm way off, maybe this is an undersized set like you suggest, or maybe this is normal with everybody's sets.

I haven't been able to reach Freud customer service yet during business hours. Just curious if there is an explanation.

[Shawn Christ]

Hmmm, maybe I'm expecting too much out of these tools. If it were me, I think I would have returned your set. When I've experienced your problem I was fortunate that my setup was wrong with teeth not clearly set in the gullets.

[Don Jarvie]

I have the same set and I can't get a 3/4 dado. I put in the blades to get 11/16 and just adjust the fence. I actually find doing it this way is more exact.

[Matt Day]

Jamie, no attached shims on my 208.



Matt, I disagree to a certain extent, and I'm curious if you have the same issue. It seems, with this particular set, it's not necessary to waste time guessing and "dialing in" to get to 1/4". The chart says use blades A and B for a 1/4" cut, no shims. If I want a 1/2" dado I know I need A, B, and two D chippers. An 11/32" cut: A, B, C, and shims 3 and 5. That's the beauty of the chart, saves time with no guesswork. Shims are required for all X/32" cuts and a 7/8" cut, or like you say, to dial in UNUSUAL sizes such as 1/4 plywood. But in this case, I'm not using plywood, I'm using floating hardwood strips. And sometimes I use hardboard which is still true to size. Maybe I'm way off, maybe this is an undersized set like you suggest, or maybe this is normal with everybody's sets.

I haven't been able to reach Freud customer service yet during business hours. Just curious if there is an explanation.

Shawn,

I know what you mean, that it would be nice to get exactly 1/4", or 1/2", or 3/4" from the set based on the chart. But there seem to always be variances in everything you buy these days, even 1/4" hardboard it seems! I use that as a baseline but I always cut a test piece first, then shim as necessary.

[Clifford Betterley]

Thanks for the thread. It's very informative and points out the importance of a test cut but I understand your frustration with something that is not preforming as advertised.

[Howard Acheson]

I believe Doug has the answer. As I recall when a Freud rep used to participate on this forum, this question came up. The response was that the dado was designed to cut slightly small to ensure a good, tight fit when a 1/4" board was going into the dado.

Of course, now days, the thickness of sheet goods can be all over the place so shimming is almost always required to get a proper fit.

[Myk Rian]

I believe Doug has the answer. As I recall when a Freud rep used to participate on this forum, this question came up. The response was that the dado was designed to cut slightly small to ensure a good, tight fit when a 1/4" board was going into the dado..
Which is a good thing. All the other dado sets being mentioned can't do that.