james hepp
07-31-2012, 3:36 PM
I just bought a Grizzly G9963 27" resaw bandsaw, and am having some difficulties with it. This is the discontinued (fairly LARGE) vertical bandsaw that takes a 3" blade.
As it turns out, the wheels use NO TIRES and are dead FLAT.
I'm speculating that Grizzly may have discontinued this saw due to problems arising from the wheels being FLAT and would like to learn more on the subject of band-wheels & bandwheel design/maintenance.
Several makes/models of industrial resaws come from the factory with Flat wheels, however sawmills regularly crown / recrown their wheels.
are these intended to be crowned according to end user specs prior to use?
The wheels on this Grizzly resaw are just under 28" -and I have been unable to find any tires that fit a 27.75" 3" wide wheel. as for having these wheels crowned, I'd like to get some advice before seeking out services...
The saw I just bought had been "modified" -and I "un-modified" this last night, -but I can't help but wonder why someone would weld the WASHERS (Part 117) to the upper ARBOR BRACKET HOLDER (part 118, which has about 1.5" slot for the PIVOT SHAFT rather than the hole shown in the diagram http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g9963_m.pdf )
in it's welded position, the wheels were about 1" out of co-planarity, with the 2" blade's teeth riding directly on the lower wheel -maybe they were using this machine to take the set out of their saw-bands??? any blade run on this machine would be instantly ruined, so this was the first thing I addressed, but now that I have full adjustment of the upper wheel, the guides removed and an order of new parts/blades on the way, I'm really not sure how to go about setting-up this saw?
and back to the wheel issue, I'm wondering if I should even try until the wheels are crowned and rebalanced?
Is there any reason I couldn't fabricate a jig and grinding tool, and grind a couple thou' crown on wheels under the saw's own power?
Another "interesting" element on this saw is it's lubrication tank. there's a Lubrication reservoir and a "lubricant absorber" (parts 55 and 56 in the diagram) no info is provided, and I'm not exactly sure what to use in this, or if this is of much use? I like the idea of the misting system shown here: http://www.borsonresaw.com/pages/saw.html , but perhaps this can be used as well???
I have a bandsaw feeder, it is the Grizzly G1094 (which is a Comatic 1/2hp unit) but is was mounted so that the fence maxed out at more than an inch away from the blade, and I doubt the previous owner had any clue about where it SHOULD be mounted. where should the roller fence and the feed wheels be located in relation to the blade? I hate to drill any holes until I know for certain where it should be located
Grizzly is no help on this. I tried calling several different times, and while I reached different "Tech Support" personnel, none seemed knowledgeable nor interested in finding out. one tried to sell me $200 worth of tires for a 24" bandsaw, insisting they'd stretch if heated (they were for a 24" x 2" wheel of a different design altogether...)
The guides are another issue to contend with. I ordered parts to replace the missing and damaged ones, but I'm not sure this is the BEST guide design for this saw... as designed, it uses bakelite plastic dowels (1" diameter) and only the upper guide uses a rear roller bearing.
would a series of roller bearings work better? or is what it has sufficient for a 3" blade running at 4900fpm? I like Baker's guide systems, but they only accomodate up to a 2" blade, + retrofitting would likely be equal difficulty + expense as simply fabricating my own
Finally, the throat plate is chewed to hell and needs replaced... do you use zero clearance plates with a big blade like this, or is some more clearance needed?
By the way, the blades I ordered are from Grizzly, but they're Lenox Woodmaster "B" blades which are 206.75" x 3" x .050" @ .78tpi. -bimetal, carbide teeth. once this saw is running and running well, I'd like to try a Stellite tooth blade, but for the initial road tests, $160 is about all I'm willing to spend on something that may get destroyed in short order.
I realize there are too many questions to address all at once, but ANY advice or direction on ANY of the things mentioned would be so greatly appreciated.
-Kyle, Estero FL
As it turns out, the wheels use NO TIRES and are dead FLAT.
I'm speculating that Grizzly may have discontinued this saw due to problems arising from the wheels being FLAT and would like to learn more on the subject of band-wheels & bandwheel design/maintenance.
Several makes/models of industrial resaws come from the factory with Flat wheels, however sawmills regularly crown / recrown their wheels.
are these intended to be crowned according to end user specs prior to use?
The wheels on this Grizzly resaw are just under 28" -and I have been unable to find any tires that fit a 27.75" 3" wide wheel. as for having these wheels crowned, I'd like to get some advice before seeking out services...
The saw I just bought had been "modified" -and I "un-modified" this last night, -but I can't help but wonder why someone would weld the WASHERS (Part 117) to the upper ARBOR BRACKET HOLDER (part 118, which has about 1.5" slot for the PIVOT SHAFT rather than the hole shown in the diagram http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g9963_m.pdf )
in it's welded position, the wheels were about 1" out of co-planarity, with the 2" blade's teeth riding directly on the lower wheel -maybe they were using this machine to take the set out of their saw-bands??? any blade run on this machine would be instantly ruined, so this was the first thing I addressed, but now that I have full adjustment of the upper wheel, the guides removed and an order of new parts/blades on the way, I'm really not sure how to go about setting-up this saw?
and back to the wheel issue, I'm wondering if I should even try until the wheels are crowned and rebalanced?
Is there any reason I couldn't fabricate a jig and grinding tool, and grind a couple thou' crown on wheels under the saw's own power?
Another "interesting" element on this saw is it's lubrication tank. there's a Lubrication reservoir and a "lubricant absorber" (parts 55 and 56 in the diagram) no info is provided, and I'm not exactly sure what to use in this, or if this is of much use? I like the idea of the misting system shown here: http://www.borsonresaw.com/pages/saw.html , but perhaps this can be used as well???
I have a bandsaw feeder, it is the Grizzly G1094 (which is a Comatic 1/2hp unit) but is was mounted so that the fence maxed out at more than an inch away from the blade, and I doubt the previous owner had any clue about where it SHOULD be mounted. where should the roller fence and the feed wheels be located in relation to the blade? I hate to drill any holes until I know for certain where it should be located
Grizzly is no help on this. I tried calling several different times, and while I reached different "Tech Support" personnel, none seemed knowledgeable nor interested in finding out. one tried to sell me $200 worth of tires for a 24" bandsaw, insisting they'd stretch if heated (they were for a 24" x 2" wheel of a different design altogether...)
The guides are another issue to contend with. I ordered parts to replace the missing and damaged ones, but I'm not sure this is the BEST guide design for this saw... as designed, it uses bakelite plastic dowels (1" diameter) and only the upper guide uses a rear roller bearing.
would a series of roller bearings work better? or is what it has sufficient for a 3" blade running at 4900fpm? I like Baker's guide systems, but they only accomodate up to a 2" blade, + retrofitting would likely be equal difficulty + expense as simply fabricating my own
Finally, the throat plate is chewed to hell and needs replaced... do you use zero clearance plates with a big blade like this, or is some more clearance needed?
By the way, the blades I ordered are from Grizzly, but they're Lenox Woodmaster "B" blades which are 206.75" x 3" x .050" @ .78tpi. -bimetal, carbide teeth. once this saw is running and running well, I'd like to try a Stellite tooth blade, but for the initial road tests, $160 is about all I'm willing to spend on something that may get destroyed in short order.
I realize there are too many questions to address all at once, but ANY advice or direction on ANY of the things mentioned would be so greatly appreciated.
-Kyle, Estero FL