Table saw tune up problems

[Paul Sikorski]

I have a bunch of projects for this winter so Im starting to go through the shop and get everything cleaned and tuned up. My table saw usually runs true last tune up was probably a couple years ago and had about .001 difference between the front and rear of the blade from the miter gauge. So I go check it and its .005 off I was a little surprised so I start checking around and found the front bracket is cracked. Not sure how or when but the part is a bit over 300 bucks. So the question is is this where the defelction is coming from and do I need to replace it ( I am contemplating using glue to get it back into position and see how well it holds). Any chance anyone has had to replace it and can give a little advice on how to change it out.

[Joseph Tarantino]

I have a bunch of projects for this winter so Im starting to go through the shop and get everything cleaned and tuned up. My table saw usually runs true last tune up was probably a couple years ago and had about .001 difference between the front and rear of the blade from the miter gauge. So I go check it and its .005 off I was a little surprised so I start checking around and found the front bracket is cracked. Not sure how or when but the part is a bit over 300 bucks. So the question is is this where the defelction is coming from and do I need to replace it ( I am contemplating using glue to get it back into position and see how well it holds). Any chance anyone has had to replace it and can give a little advice on how to change it out.

what kind of glue are you using?

[Jacob Reverb]

I'd braze it.

[Paul Sikorski]

what kind of glue are you using?

Havent used anything yet was gonna do a search and see whats out there.

[Paul Sikorski]

I'd braze it.
Hadnt though of that. I think thats gonna be the way to go Thanks!!

[Sam Layton]

Paul,

It is hard to tell from your photo exactly what part is cracked. It can be welded. However, the part looks like it is cast iron. There is a special process for welding cast iron, so you need to have someone do it that knows what they are doing.

If you have the room and clearance you could grind it down to bare metal around the crack, get two small steel strap, rough the surface of the straps. Drill a hole at each end of the steel strap, and bolt the strap across the crack. Put JB Weld under the steel strap for reinforcing. If you can, drill a small hole at the end of the crack, in an attempt to keep the crack from continuing. JB Weld works very good.

Sam

[Stephen Cherry]

J B WELD. While it may be possible to braze, I would use JB weld to build up the area. Strong stuff.

[Joseph Tarantino]

+1 on jb weld. good on CI.

[Cary Falk]

I am having a hard time picturing what part this is. What saw is it off of? I don't think JB weld is all that great of stuff. I would either braze it or bolt some steel plates to it to keep it from moving.

[Paul Sikorski]

238084Its part 171 in the diagram. My father has a guy that brazed a ci bracket for me years ago Im gonna see if hes still around.

[Cary Falk]

Left tilt Uni? OWWM is out. Brazing is probably your best bet.

[Richard Wagner]

I would use JBWeld. Remove the finish in the area of the crack and then puddle the JBWeld in that area. Allow it to cure real well before applying any sort of stress.

[Paul Sikorski]

Its a standard or right tilt unisaw. I took the part off tonight and will drop it off tomorrow to get it Brazed. Wish me luck I will update the post after I get it back. Here s a couple pics of the part removed.238132238133

[Cary Falk]

The right tilt Uni has been virtually unchanged since birth. Most parts are interchangable. If the brazing does not go well, You could put a WTB add in the BYOD section of OWWM. You could probably get a replacement for less then $75 shipped.

[Paul Sikorski]

Wanted to first Thank every.238281238282238283one for their help. I dont think I would have thought to braze it on my own. Well I wanted to update the post I got the part and they did a great job. Well at least it looks great to me. Anyways I got it back and started the reassembly. It seems pretty straight forward but if any one has any advice Im always willing to listen. Heres a couple pics of the finished part

[Jacob Reverb]

Glad to hear it worked out. FWIW, I've always used a spray-on graphite lubricant on those arbor tilt/height worms...being a dry lube, it doesn't attract sawdust/sap and bind up like oil or grease often does.

[Paul Sikorski]

Thanks Jacob I have a can in the garage Ill put it to use.