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Scott Lux
07-29-2012, 10:43 PM
I have this nice chunk of pear log that I would really like to make into an end-grain bowl (to take advantage of the curvy outline). This piece is 11" across max.

There is a significantly punky spot pretty close to center. I bought some polycrylic, and I have access to large amounts of CA. So I can stabilize as I expose it.

My big concern is mounting it securely. I'm pretty sure the screw that came with my chuck isn't going to be able to hold this because of the endgrain and punky-ness.

So how is this for an idea? I smooth one face as much as I can with a belt sander. Then glue a sound piece of oak across it as a sacrificial block. I have a piece of 6/4 about 14" across. Would that be stout enough? Would the joint be strong enough going face grain to end-grain? I've got Titebond III and E6000, and preference for glue?

So many questions.

Steve Schlumpf
07-29-2012, 10:55 PM
Scott - everyone will have their favorite ways to deal with this but I would use a faceplate. I like the security of screws over glue. I would be leery of a glue block when dealing with endgrain... but then, I have never used glue blocks.

Prashun Patel
07-29-2012, 11:06 PM
I would doubt the glue connection to the end grain.

If you don't want to use a face plate then this seems like a great place for a Mercantel chuck plate. It's basically a disc that mounts in yr chuck and has screws for spikes on the stock side. You use it much like you use a spur center but it's wider with more bearing points. I like mine.

Harry Robinette
07-29-2012, 11:36 PM
I'd put it on a face plate,turn the biggest foot I could and put my chuck on it.Turn it around and bring up my tail stock and turn everything away but the center that the live center is on until last.

Jerry Marcantel
07-30-2012, 12:28 AM
I kinda like Prashun's idea. Make one of Jerry's chuck plates if you have a chuck, and you wont have the need to ask that question again. Also, you'll be throwing away that face plate after using the Chuck plate..... hehehe..... Jerry (in Tucson)

Dale Miner
07-30-2012, 8:15 AM
I would put it between centers with a large spur drive, turn a large tenon on what will be the bottom and put it in a chuck using the tailstock for support to rough the outside and hollow as much of the inside as possible before removing the tailstock support. This assumes that the wood is not punky at the diameter of the tenon. #3 jaws near closed would be much better than #2 jaws wide open. Since it is an endgrain piece, there is little chance of the tenon breaking off (unless punky). If the center is too punky for a spur drive, then perhaps screwing a small diameter piece on to provide an engagement area for the spur while forming the tenon. If the diameter of the piece where the tenon will be formed is punky, I believe I would abandon the end grain idea. A piece that large getting away could do serious injury.

Here is a pic of an end grain piece held in a chuck.

Olaf Vogel
07-30-2012, 10:42 AM
I would doubt the glue connection to the end grain.

If you don't want to use a face plate then this seems like a great place for a Mercantel chuck plate.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/content.php?130-Review-Jerry-Marcantel%92s-Chuck-Plate

Upon others recommendations, I made one of these and have used it for some much larger and heavier pieces. I only use it to start, mounted between the centers, until you can turn a decent foot on it. then I flip it around, use the tail stock again until I have it shaved down as far as I can go. At that point it should have lost most of its weight and you can hopefully use it with a chuck only and finish the center.

This piece was done exactly that way and worked perfectly. I just hoping I can dry it out without cracking to oblivion.
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Scott Lux
07-30-2012, 5:47 PM
Well, I have a face plate I can use, but I like the chuck plate idea too. I think I'll go that route. Thanks for the advice all. I was very reluctant to try a glue block.

Dennis Ford
07-30-2012, 6:04 PM
I would have used a face-plate but suspect that a glue block would be fine IF the glue surfaces mated up well. Chuck jaws large enough to grip some solid wood would also work.

curtis rosche
07-30-2012, 6:14 PM
It appears that the center of that log is rotten,,,, might want to cut it down the length and then mounth on the flat face.

Jim Burr
07-30-2012, 6:24 PM
Jerry's kids or a big screw chuck...do you really want that to get away from you?

Steve Schlumpf
07-30-2012, 9:30 PM
Scott - I suggested the faceplate because I figured it was something you already had on hand.... I have the Chuck Plate from Jerry and I use it for everything when roughing. If you build one of Jerry's Chuck Plates, you will find it has many uses and one major advantage is that it allows you to rotate the wood to find the best orientation.

Good luck with your project!