Wilkerson Auto Drain Valve problems

[Joe Jensen]

I installed a Wilkerson Automatic drain valve on my Quincy 5HP stationary compressor a couple of years ago. Worked great, for 6-9 months and then it stuck open. When I tore it down, the check ball inside was completely rusted. The ball is the seats on a brass ring and I'm sure the rust let enough air leak through to open the valve. The ball is held in place by a plastic part that cracked when I disassembled. I searched for a couple of weeks and couldn't find a good price on a rebuild kit (Kit plus shipping was like $60) so I stupidly bought another Wilkerson Auto Drain valve. The new one worked perfectly until last week. Took it apart today and the same thing. I just ordered stainless steel balls (had to order a pack of 50) and I'm sure with shipping that will cost me another $20-25.

:mad: WTH is Wilkerson doing putting a carbon steel ball in a wet environment? This is ridiculous...joe

[Scott T Smith]

Joe, that's pretty odd; I've had one of these for a couple of years w/o any problems. Then again, my compressor cycles the drain valve at least once daily, and sometimes several times.

How often does your compressor cycle?

[Carroll Courtney]

What you might try is put a wye strainer before the auto drain to help keeping rust what ever else might be there away from the auto drain.I put strainers in air compressors at work so far so good.Grainger should have rebuild kits,just wondering is your auto drains elec or work off of psi?The elec work alot better,just a though----Carroll

[Joe Jensen]

The rust is forming on the ball. It's almost like they are supposed to have stainless balls but the two I've purchased have rusted. I tried removing the rust and the ball is pitted. With the rust removed the valve stays open all the time. Mine usually only cycles on the weekends when I'm in the shop. The rest of the unit seems good so I'm hoping the stainless ball upgrade solves the issue. Sad to spent $70 twice on valves, and another $25 for a total of $165 for a $70 thing..joe

[Roger Feeley]

I got a little valve from Harbor Freight some years ago. It replaces the manual drain valve and has a connection to the unloader circuit. Every time the compressor starts or stops, the valve lets a little bit out. I've had no problem with the valve but considerable trouble with the t-connector in the unloader circuit. The darn thing heats up and softens the plastic line.

[Bruce Page]

It's odd that they would not use a SS ball. I've been running an IR automatic drain valve since '05 without any problems.

[Joe Jensen]

I just checked with a magnet and the ball is definitely ferrous...joe

[Rick Fisher]

Hi Joe.

Did you send Wilkerson an email ?

[ray hampton]

one word, money
I am sure that you saw the commercial , its my money and I want it now

[Charles Lent]

Instead of posting your problem here, shouldn't you first try e-mailing Wilkerson? They may already have realized that they made a bunch of these valves with the wrong ball in them and will send you a free replacement ball, or maybe a whole new valve. You should at least give them a chance to make it right. If that doesn't work, then post your problem here.

Charley

[Joe Jensen]

Instead of posting your problem here, shouldn't you first try e-mailing Wilkerson? They may already have realized that they made a bunch of these valves with the wrong ball in them and will send you a free replacement ball, or maybe a whole new valve. You should at least give them a chance to make it right. If that doesn't work, then post your problem here.

Charley

Will do. thanks

[Joe Jensen]

Received response from Wilkerson. Emailed yesterday and response today which is pretty good IMHO. The response, yes they only use regular ball bearing balls. They have not seen this before. They assume there is enough oil suspension to prevent the rust. Not sure why the ball in my valve is rusting. My system is an old Quincy 60 gallon with a model 325 pump. Designed for either 3HP or 5HP motors. I have the smaller pulley and a 3HP motor on it. I am running Quincy synthetic pump oil so I'd think that would "mist" like any other compressor. Also, my pump is likely 30-40 years old and never rebuilt so I'd assume the rings are less than perfect. It was used for more than 20 years as the compressor for a dentist office so it saw light duty.

They recommended that I buy a stainless locally to repair.

I had to order 50 balls so if anyone here needs a 5/16" stainless ball IM me and I'll send you one :rolleyes:

[Carroll Courtney]

Just a though,I wonder if it may be due to your drain location(off the side that has a pickup tube or bottom)?Wondering if where your drain is located that it may be hot or warm then as it cools down the ball get condensation on it but does not blow down.Heck Az,theres no humidity----Carroll

[Joe Jensen]

My drain line exits the bottom of the tank towards one end. It's generally pretty dry here so if anything I'd expect the air to have a higher oil mist to water vapor ratio.

I did have one other thought. The valve can be installed with a pressure input line from another point in the tank, or from around the pump. I connected mine on the end of the tank (like their diagram showed as one option). That input is where moisture is coming in to corrode the ball. Maybe the oil vapor settles in the tank before that? Seems like a stretch, and I have plumbed exactly as the primary diagram shows...joe

[Joe Jensen]

Update, even with the stainless ball, the valve fails every 9-12 months. It either doesn't seal completely or it stops functioning. Every time I disassemble it all of the brass parts inside are corroded and the pistons don't move well. I've tried silicon lube when reassembling, oil, etc. Hard to believe that if suspended oil is supposed to lube it that my 40 year old never rebuilt Quincy pumps doesn't have enough oil getting past the piston rings :confused:.

I'm done, switching to an electronic valve to get rid of the differential pressure style