Dust collection on a Ridgid R4512

[Don Parker]

I'm a newcomer here, so please forgive me if this is an overdone topic.

Background: I build acoustic guitars as a hobby. I found this forum in my research regarding dust collection, and the comments I found here were very helpful in my decision to "ramp it up" by buying a Clear Vue CV1800, the installation of which is almost complete. Thanks for being so informative on the topic.

Here is my question:

I also recently bought a Ridgid R4512 table saw. I know that most folks here think the best way to maximize dust collection on a table saw is to collect both from the cabinet and from over the blade. I'm convinced; I'll order a Shark Guard at some point in the near future. However, if you assume that I will have over the blade collection, do you think it is also necessary to open up the stock 4 inch dust collection port under the R4512 cabinet to 5 or 6 inches, or is the combination of a Shark Guard and the stock 4 inch port enough?

I realize that most table saws struggle to collect dust just from underneath, so widening that port is normally the way to go. However, the R4512 has what looks like a slightly better design for dust collection than I've seen on other saws of its ilk. There is a plastic funnel that forms the floor of the cabinet, with all four sides sloping toward a 4 inch port in the middle. So, I didn't want to assume that what is true for most saws is true for this one, too.

A factor here is the PITA it will be to take the saw off its legs to replace the dust collection funnel with something that has a 5 or 6 inch port. If it is necessary, then I'll do it, but MAN, this saw is heavy. If a 4 inch port for this saw will do the trick (when combined with collection above the blade), then I would rather not deal with replacing what's there.

Thanks in advance for your help!

--Don

[Joseph Tarantino]

doesn't the 4512 weigh around 250lbs.? not really that much when you consider the discontinued r4511 weighed in at 477 lbs (500 lbs shipping weight), the dicontinued 3650 weighed in at 300 lbs (solid CI extension wings to 4512's stamped steel) and some older CI saws can weigh in above 500 lbs. that being said, if you are going with above the table DC (sharkguard), i wouldn't invest the time or effort to change the dimensions of the lower DC port until i evaluated the dust collection with a 4" lower port, a sharkguard and a good 1.5hp DC with a collection ring baffle installed. if it's lacking, then attempt the lower port modification. no sense making extra work if it's not needed. and, FWIW, all my 10" saws have 4" collection ports and dust collection is aceptable. you're never going to get it all, so i'd only chase perfection making modifications itteratively.

[Don Parker]

No question that I'm a lightweight, Joseph. The 267 lbs. on this saw felt like a lot more when I was getting the dang thing on its feet after being upside down for assembly. I would have never been able to handle a bigger one.

The power of the dust collector should not be an issue. The Clear Vue is a 5hp monster, and my 6 inch duct runs will be relatively short.

Thanks for your input. It does make sense to try it out for awhile at 4 inches, and tinker with it later only if/when it seems I am not capturing what I should.

However, it would be great to hear from folks on the "Bill Pentz" end of the spectrum. If anyone else has a perspective, I value the input while I am in the midst of tearing up Jack in the shop. Might as well keep it going while there are things to be done.

Thanks.

[Darl Bundren]

If you end up installing quality over the blade collection, I'd suspect that the four inch outlet under the saw would be sufficient, particularly if you are pulling with the Clearvue. I have a Ridgid TS2424, and I've had considerable success under the table simply by attaching the 3.5" or 4" hose (can't remember which) that came with the saw to a decent shopvac and garbage can cyclone.

And, as Joseph T noted, try it with the four inch outlet before you make under the saw changes. I own the Clearvue cyclone and have found that for those machines I've hooked it up to (planer and jointer), creating adaptors out of commonly available HVAC components has been easy. If you do choose to modify the collection under the saw, it seems you could carefully tip the saw up and have it rest on blocks, dremel off the appropriate size of the plastic shroud underneath, and attach a galvanized duct underneath (round hole coming out of square base--not sure what they're called) for under ten bucks. Then you'd have the 6" outlet that Mr. Pentz recommends with little effort.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

First, make some test cuts of different types and evaluate the dust collection if you can. Your saw is reputed to have pretty good collection (at least from what I read).

I have dust collection from both top and bottom using the stock system that comes with a SawStop. When I make a cut very close to the edge, I still get a significant amount of dust on the table top. As an example, assume that the thin strip is on the left side of the blade. The board on the right side raises the dust collecting blade guard to the height of the wood. The left side of the blade guard is no longer touching the table or the wood. This provides an avenue for the dust to escape.

Connect to your saw from the bottom and turn on the dust collection. Feel how much air is being pulled in around the saw blade (while the saw is off)

Evaluate the types of cuts that you think that you will make, test those, and see how much dust is not collected.

I expect that a shark guard will pull more air than what I have on my Sawstop around the top of the blade (just as a side note).

Very interested in your results.

[Don Parker]

If you do choose to modify the collection under the saw, it seems you could carefully tip the saw up and have it rest on blocks, dremel off the appropriate size of the plastic shroud underneath, and attach a galvanized duct underneath (round hole coming out of square base--not sure what they're called) for under ten bucks. Then you'd have the 6" outlet that Mr. Pentz recommends with little effort.

I actually thought of a safe, easy and not terribly expensive way to lift the saw: a pair of floor jacks, the kind you use to support a sagging floor from underneath. They make them in all different heights, and they only cost $20-30. One on each side, eack jack screwed to a piece of plywood at bottom (to broaden and stabilize the footprint) and a 24" 2X4 screwed to the top of each jack. This way, I can even leave the rails on; the jacks will pick the saw up by the cast iron top, which will be resting on the 2X4s.

If I do this, I will probably take the legs off and replace the 4 inch dust funnel altogether, rather than cut it up. I can make an airtight attachment with a 5 or 6 inch port pretty easily. Angle rings are my new best friend!

Thanks for the feedback so far. Keep it coming; I wil benefit from hearing all perspectives.

[Joseph Tarantino]

just a suggestion:

[David Doria]

Don,

Did you ever jack up the saw? I bought some jacks to do the same thing, but couldn't really figure out how to safely attach the jacks to the table before lifting. The case iron table only overhangs a tiny bit. Please let me know how you went about this!

Thanks,

David

[Bill White]

I would be VERY afraid to lift by the cast iron.
Bill