heal and toe....or the iron????

[Mark Singer]

On traditional wood planes do you adjust by tappng the heel and toe or the iron and heel. Tapping the heel makes a finer cut...less blade. Tapping the toe adds blade for a thicker (rank) cut...Tapping the iron, does the same. I seem to have more control tapping the plane body than the iron. And then tapping the wedge lghtly...which adds a bit more blade...


For Physics enthusiasts

Newton's First law supports the heel and toe technique...objects in motion tend to remain.....(law of inertia)

Newton's third law (and First) supports the blade and heel technique....for every action there is an equal and opposite reac....




Sorry I took physics and never get to use it....:confused:

[John Miliunas]

I don't have a clue, my fine "woodie" mentor friend! BUT, I did get my LV plane hammer, so when the SK smoother gets here, I'll try both and let you know which works better for me!:) In the meantime, I'll keep a sharp eye out on this thread!:) :cool:

[Steve Wargo]

I use the Heel method for removing irons and backing them off on my moulding planes, but I adjust the depth with taps to the iron & wedge. Just seems to have more control, but I use a really light japanese hammer for this.

[Mark Singer]

John,

The light plane hammers are much better for hitting your thumb....which I do often...it feels much better than when I hit it with my 28oz. Vaughn Framer....oooohhhh! even I start to think of bad words....mind you I never said any....only thinking...like when the pretty ladies go by....just thoughts:rolleyes:


I don't have a clue, my fine "woodie" mentor friend! BUT, I did get my LV plane hammer, so when the SK smoother gets here, I'll try both and let you know which works better for me!:) In the meantime, I'll keep a sharp eye out on this thread!:) :cool:

[John Miliunas]

John,

The light plane hammers are much better for hitting your thumb....which I do often...it feels much better than when I hit it with my 28oz. Vaughn Framer....oooohhhh! even I start to think of bad words....mind you I never said any....only thinking...like when the pretty ladies go by....just thoughts:rolleyes:

Hey Mark, no argument about keeping one's thoughts to one's self when it comes to the ladies (especially if, at least, one of them isn't your own!:eek: )!:D However, when I pull a real "stupid", especially when it involves pain, I'm afraid I'd much sooner fit in with the crew of a big-city construction gang than that of the local church choir!:o Anyhow, although I have a decent set of LN's started, I'm still looking forward to the woodie. I just hope I have the finesse needed to tweak it properly! I'll be sure to leave the 24oz'er hanging on the peg board!:) :cool:

[Tom LaRussa]

On traditional wood planes do you adjust by tappng the heel and toe or the iron and heel. Tapping the heel makes a finer cut...less blade. Tapping the toe adds blade for a thicker (rank) cut...Tapping the iron, does the same. I seem to have more control tapping the plane body than the iron. And then tapping the wedge lghtly...which adds a bit more blade...

I'm still going back and forth -- without much success either way, I'm afraid. :(

[Mark Singer]

John,

Steve pre tunes the planes....it should be sharp and the mouth tight and ready for the tissue paper thin shavings.....I adjusted it just a little and it is very easy. If the iron doesn't move....tap the heel...that will loosen it and also draw it up...less bite. Tap the toe (the front of the body) and the iron will drop...more aggressive cut. Once ypu like it...tap the wedge to secure it. when you tap the wedge the iron goes down a slight amount ...

[John Miliunas]

I'm still going back and forth -- without much success either way, I'm afraid. :(

Hey Tom, maybe Mark will lend you his Vaughn!:D :rolleyes: :cool:

[Alan Turner]

I use Steve Wargo's method as well. Tapping the front of the plane works, I know, but I have less control over the lateral adjustment that way, even when I tap to one side or the other.

[Mark Singer]

It has a waffle face! Oooohhhh that huerts!
Hey Tom, maybe Mark will lend you his Vaughn!:D :rolleyes: :cool:

[Mark Singer]

Alan,

I know wht you mean ...each plane is different too..trial and error I guess


I use Steve Wargo's method as well. Tapping the front of the plane works, I know, but I have less control over the lateral adjustment that way, even when I tap to one side or the other.

[Michael Perata]

...it feels much better than when I hit it with my 28oz. Vaughn Framer

I once owned a 28oz Vaghn Framer. Used it for a morning - gave it away to a gorilla walking by my job and bought a 22oz Vaughn. Drove a lot more green 16's without tendonitis problems.

If you buy a 28oz framer, you are showing off :cool:

[Roy Wall]

I once owned a 28oz Vaghn Framer. Used it for a morning - gave it away to a gorilla walking by my job and bought a 22oz Vaughn. Drove a lot more green 16's without tendonitis problems.

If you buy a 28oz framer, you are showing off :cool:

LOL!!! I just gave the huge framer to my 17 year old, strong as an ox, NEPHEW. Hadn't used it in 10 years....and couldn't handle it then:mad:

20 oz. short handle ROCKET for me..:cool:

[Tim Sproul]

I tap the iron and the heel.

The wedge should be tight but not overly so. Just like with metal bodied planes....you want the iron secure but not so secure you cannot adjust the iron. For myself, that is the most difficult aspect of a wooden plane with a wedge - getting the wedge tight enough to hold but loose enough to maintain easy iron adjustment. I think that Steve Knight's planes will become all that much easier to adjust if and when he's able to get a supply of those brass caps....at least reproducibly tensioning the cap will be easier than tapping a wedge. Another thing to do to get more predictable iron advance/retraction when tapping is to set the toe or heel of the plane on your benchtop when tapping. Don't hold the entire plane in your hand as your bench provides very consistent resistance to the tapping while holding in your hand, you sometimes provide good resistance to the tapping and sometimes provide poor resistance.

Rather than framing hammers and "plane adjusting" hammers....suggest you all look at the nylon headed dead-blow hammer that shows up in the "shaker box" thread I posted....thanks to Manny for leading me to those hammers.

[Roger Myers]

The adjusting method being a matter of personal preference (I tap the iron gently to increase the cut, and the plane body to back off, or to remove the wedge/iron)...but use the right tools for the job so as not to damage either the plane body, or the iron...I hate seeing mushroomed irons and dinged up plane bodies by someone using the first hammer available...(though they do sell for less with these cosmetic flaws :) )

My favorite plane adjusting hammer http://www.chestertoolworks.com/planehammers.htm

No affiliation other than Dave is a friend, and makes some awesome tools!

Roger