Faceplate Ring Questions

[Glen Blanchard]

As a new turner, I am quickly learning of some of the problems and dilemmas that present themselves. One thing I have learned is not to remove a piece from the chuck until I am done turning it, as I won't be able to get it to turn true after remounting. Will faceplate rings resolve this issue? That is, will remounting a blank that has a faceplate ring always run true upon remounting (assuming there is no wood movement in the mean time)?

One more question regarding faceplate rings. Is there something to their makeup that requires one to use a faceplate ring made by the same company as the chuck it is to be placed on, or are these totally interchangeable?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Glen, can't answer your faceplate question as I very seldom use them, however, you can remount turnings in your chuck with no problem if you mark the turning. While I still have the wood mounted in the chuck, I use a black ink pen and mark the gap where the #4 and #1 jaws line up on the tenon. That way when I go to remount the blank, just align the chuck jaws with the marks on the blank and you are good to go.

[Glen Blanchard]

Thanks Steve. I have tried this actually. But with limited success. Perhaps I will get better at it with more experience.

[Dennis Ford]

I prefer face-plates to face-plate rings. Face-plates can eliminate the problem IF you leave them on. Hard, dry wood can be remounted in a chuck without much trouble (if position is marked and the tenon was cut accurately). Wet wood (or the softer varieties) rarely mount up true the second time for me.

[Scott Hackler]

I'm with Steve. I always mark jaw # 1 for returning later. Of course this is for turning dried wood. If I rounded a blank, marked the jaws, let it dry (even a bit) and tried to remount....it wont run true. Of course the obvious answer is that you can now justify another chuck! :)

[Glen Blanchard]

Of course the obvious answer is that you can now justify another chuck! :)

I'm one step ahead of you, Scott !! :)