How about a litte b4 and after? (budget kitchen)

[Rich Engelhardt]

Before....

[Rich Engelhardt]

Total cost under $900.00.
Not including all the beer consumed in the process.... ;)..

[Phil Thien]

That looks terrific.

Care to run-down all the work that was done? How long it took? What was purchased, what was shop-built?

[Rich Engelhardt]

Phil,
Thanks!

New - purchased:
Counter tops (Home Depot stock item - ~ $200 give or take. That includes
Sink and faucet - sink was $119/Faucet was about $10 from Menards with a huge rebate
Floor - groutable peel and stick vinyl tile from Home Depot - $119. including premix grout. Really looks like ceramic in real life. Evryone that sees it has to bend over and touch it to see for themself that it's vinyl.
Door/draw pulls/ a few new hinges - about $50.00. The old hinges were cleaned prepped then spray painted (Rustoleum) pewter to match the new pulls.
Beadboard - three 4x8 sheets @ $17.00 per sheet plus a gallon of BIN for priming @ $40. The beadboard is MDF and I put three coats of BIN on all six sides to seal it against any possible moisture. All cuts made for fitting also got three coats of BIN, then a bead of silicone/latex caulk.
Liquid nails/latex caulk/silicone caulk - all told I must have used a dozen tubes - cost was -$0-. All free after a Menards super rebate.
Entery door - $180 from Home Depot - $250 to have it installed - not by Home Depot. We had a contractor replace one of the bedroom windows and a storm window that he had to special order. Since he had to have a two man crew come out and spend an hour on those, I bargined a bit better overall price by filling up some extra hours for his crew.
New light fixture - not pictured - kind of but not really free. We bought it to use somewhere else, but, it didn't fit in where we wanted to use it. Figure about $20.

Paint/primer/misc - probably another $100.
Electrical not done yet - figure $100 to $250 or so.
New poplar baseboards and trim - about $50.

That all adds up to about $1200 - but - a lot of the materials used were also used in other parts of the house -primer and paint - misc screws and fasteners - flooring adhesive added to the peel and stick in some spots for extra grip - caulking/liquid nails,,etc. Aslo, we salvaged some materials, such as the old entry door which was reused to replace the old garage door. I did the work on taking out the old garage door and replacing it instead of haviing it done. I credited back a portion of the new door install. The poplar trim used was also used to trim out the new doors I installed in the rest of the house. A little juggling around/close figuring when cutting allowed me to scrounge most of the trim.
We also got several rebates on the paint/primer @ $5.00 to $11. per gallon - so I sort of figure the cost of paint/primer in that room as a wash.

New - shop built - the pantry unit pictured in the center and the base unitseen on the right in the last two pictures.
Those were made from a sinlge 4x8 sheet of birch ply I had in the shop as stock. I usually pick up a few sheets of it when Menards has it on sale for about $35.

The what that was done:
Made the new pantry and base. I used the same construction that was used in the old cabinets/doors. Birch ply and poplar face frames. (the old face frames are 1950's clear pine - I used poplar since they would be painted).
Removed old peel and stick floor, stripped the old adhesive off and prepped for the new peel and stick.
Removed all the cabinet doors and drawers. Removed the old knobs, drilled out the old holes to 1/4" then glued/plugged the holes w/a 1/4" dowel. Trimmed that flush then sanded it smooth to match. Primed three times to build the patch up to match the surface on the outside & painted the face. On the ouside, the repair is invisible. I didn't go for that on the insides since it's a rental. Next time around - if there is a next time - I do the insides.

The exisitng boxes were all reused as were the doors and drawers. We sanded and primed them then gave them a couple coats of acrylic latex. They were all brushed, not sprayed, then "dressed" with a 3" roller to give them a very slight stipple. we found that slight stipple, instead of a glass smooth finish, is easier to maintain. Rough to touch up,,,but,,,easier to maintain.

It's hard to say how long it took since we redid pretty much the whole house. We worked on it from Jan 1st until last weekend. We skipped around a lot though and didn't go room by room.
For instance, I allocated an entire 11 hour day to just installing the new counter tops. I ended up only spending 4 hours cutting and installing them - themon another day, about two hours to do the sink cutout.
Other things, such as BIN'ing the beadboard, we put off doing that until we were going to run BIN on other areas. That meant we had to put things like installing that panty/base cabinet on hold.

[Phil Thien]

Very nice job, Rich. Thanks for the details.

If there were an award for bang for the buck, you'd certainly be my top nominee.

Looks like a million bucks!

[Brian Elfert]

Do you think you'll have any problem with the beadboard coming loose since you primed the backside? I'm about to do a beadboard install and didn't think about priming the backside.

I used to hate Menards rebates and never did them, but I recently applied for $200+ worth and the rebate came in around 15 days. Some of the Menards rebates are silly since you net about 50 cents after postage. I wish I could find Liquid Nails for free like you did.

[Larry Edgerton]

Rich, I hope none of my customers are checking this out.:D $900 is impressive, but I don't want that getting around.....

Looks great buddy.

Larry

[Rich Engelhardt]

Larry,
Thanks! Praise from a pro is always a good thing to hear.
I have a great "crew" also (my wife) that deserves most of the credit.

Brian,

The BIN (primer) shouldn't have any problem w/the liquid nails. I wouldn't try it with any other primer though.
I did allowed myself an "out" on the beadbard around the counters in the unlikly even it didn't hold.
The beadboard went in before the counter tops and goes behind the backsplash. I bedded the beadboard into a bead of silicone caulk on the cabinet carcass and ran some 18 ga nails just for good measure. The backsplash hides the brads.
Where the beadboard hits the bottom of the upper cabinets, I just ran a bead of silicone/latex caulk, then painted over it along with painting the cabinets/beadboard. In the unlikely event the beadboard comes loose on the top, I can just tack it down with 18 or 16 ga fasteners, then cover those with a piece of trim.

If you look real close at the cabinet doors in both b4 and after, you'll notice the picture frame trim around each door.
That trim is made from the screen door moulding Lowes carries.
A couple/three years ago, the tenant and her boyfriend decided they wanted to "refinish" he original 1960's orange shellac cabinets - which were in excellent and pristine condition.
They made a real mess of things and left it. We had to go in and finish it. The doors were "dressed up" @ that time by adding the picture frame trim.
I'd use that same material to trim out the beadboard if needed. I held a piece of that trim up to see how it would look & it looks pretty sharp - unlike quarter round. which looks "cheap".


The beadboard on the bottom - right side of pictures # 3 and 4 - is glued and nailed for good measure. The trim covers the nail heads. Where the two sections of beadboard come together in the middle of that wall, I ran 16 ga, 2.5" nails in at a V, then filled/painted over the heads. That turned out better than I expected & since it's going to be hidden by the refridgerator anyhow, it's not a real issue.

[Belinda Barfield]

Hats off to you and the wife! Looks great. If you two ever make a road trip to GA I've got a small project for you. :)

[Rich Engelhardt]

I could easily be tempted w/the promise of Vidalias..... :D

[Brian Elfert]

The one suggestion I might make would be to replace the outlets, switches and cover plates. The ivory really stands out. Of course, the rest of the house might be ivory and you want everything to match. Another option that would look nice would be stainless steel covers with white switches. Get the cheap stainless covers for commercial use and not the fancy decorative ones.

[Belinda Barfield]

I could easily be tempted w/the promise of Vidalias..... :D

I have a very tiny kitchen. If you will replace my 11 cabinet doors and two drawer fronts, and finish painting my kitchen I'll feed you all of the Vidalias you can eat. I'll even send home with you all the Vidalisa you can haul. I'll give you full access to the CNC and everything.

[Jim Creech]

Belinda,
Have him stop in Smithfield ,Va on his way back from your place!

[Rich Engelhardt]

Brian,
Agreed - white would have looked better.
I'm not sure about stainless. W/all the white it might look too institutional.
Maybe had we gone w/the stainless range hood...I wanted stainless there and the accounting department (my wife) nixed that idea.
We buy plates, outlets, switches and GFIs in bulk & in Almond for everywhere though so we went with what we have.

Belinda,
Oh so tempting......Stow, Ohio is ~ $188.00 worth of gas from Dixie....I've been saving up my pennies for a visit to Cleveland's Horseshoe Casino,,but,, a trip through the mountains would be so much better...
My biggest problem right now is time.
I'm booked solid, easy through the end of the year.