Replacing Jet 1642 Tailstock Quill?

[Noah Barfield]

Hi all,

I've got some serious scratches / gouges in my 1642's tail stock quill. I looked into getting a reamer and repairing it, but the cost of the reamer is about the same or more than a replacement quill (the quill is $55). Has anyone replaced one of these? If so, how do I go about removing the old one and installing a new quill?

Thanks,

Noah

[Roger Chandler]

Noah..........my Grizzly 0698 has a similar........I am not sure if perhaps identical tailstock quill. I backed the set screw out of the handwheel, and took the locking handle out of the tailstock that locks the quill down. Simply tap the shaft that went into the handwheel gently with a deadblow or a hammer with a block of wood and the entire quill should pop out......you can access the main screw in the quill mechanism and see how simple it really is........not difficult at all.

I am telling you this from memory as I sit in front of the computer with a cup of coffee. I took mine apart about a month or so ago for cleaning. So if I missed a step, it is because I am not looking at it as I type, but it was pretty simple!

[James Combs]

Like Roger I am basing my statements on memory also but I believe on my Jet 1642 that if I remove the quill lock and then extend the quill with the hand wheel far enough it will come all the way out without having to remove the hand wheel from the tail-stock. But like I said I am going by memory from the last time I cleaned and oiled it.

[Tim Rinehart]

Noah,
I think Roger and James both nailed it on removal/replacement. This is a quick and dirty changeout by removing the lockdown clamp and then just turning the handwheel till it disengages.

Just $0.02...I bought a 2MT finishing reamer from WT (1167-0060) for about $36, and I've used it to dress up both the tail stock and headstock spindle several times, especially after having a drive spur turn on me and probably not having the parts both cleaned well before inserting. It may be worthwhile to consider, though if you tailstock is really hosed up, it won't take everything out and will present possible issues with anything that is inserted into it ongoing. Judgement call...but I'd be tempted to try the finish reamer first. I just oil it up well and hold it with a vise-grip and keep working material out. Folks have told me to not get too aggressive with it...but I don't think you can by hand with this reamer. I've pushed and turned it pretty hard, and haven't come close to removing any kind of serious material...just the 'high stuff'.

Remember, any time you use the tapered connections, always make sure both are cleaned and free of any burrs. I get lazy and forget sometimes, but mostly I check every time now before using them.

[Noah Barfield]

Thanks everyone--it sounds like a pretty cut and dry replacement (whew!). Tim, thank you for the feedback about the reamer. What store is WT?

Noah

[Tim Rinehart]

Sorry bout that...WT Tool (Wholesale Tool). We have one locally that I use for lots of stuff, like hss cutters and such, but they have an online presence as well, similar to ENCO or MSC Direct.