Protecting and Storing My Tools Efficiently in a Tough Climate

[Dustin Keys]

I need a little guidance on this issue. I'm new to woodworking. I have been putting together a basic set of tools and building skills as a hobby for the last two years or so. First, I'll tell you the current state of affairs and then the problems I'm facing...

My shop is half of a two car garage. I have built a woodworking bench that is floating in the middle of my shop space. Behind me as I stand at the bench are some repurposed storage units along the wall (someone was throwing them away). They are about 30" tall with an open shelf on which I set my planes for quick access, and drawers that hold drills and bits as well as some other items. The top of these units are for liquids (alcohol, naptha, polishes, paste wax, etc) and collecting clutter. On the wall above this storage unit (behind me as I stand at the bench) is a 4'x8' sheet of pegboard that I currently hang tools from. I use the standard 1/4" pegboard hardware you find at the BORG to hang and organize the tools. On the other wall I have in my shop space, the short one, is a repurposed desk that I use for guitar work.

I live in northeast Texas, which faces high humidity and temperatures for much of the year as well as frequent and large swings of both humidity and temperature. It isn't a kind environment for tools. Most of my tools are old ones that I've found at flea markets and antique stores, cleaned up, and put to use. The pegboard that I use for most of my tools was an idea from my dad's shop. He isn't a big woodworker, so most of his tools are general household stuff. I loved how organized his tools were, and how easy it was to grab what you needed in his shop, so I went with the pegboard too. I'm beginning to decide that the pegboard is great for household tools, but not ideal for woodworking tools. Even though I've gone to religiously coating tools with oil and paste wax, I still have rust to deal with regularly on my woodworking tools. A little rust on an old wrench or screwdriver isn't that big of a deal but it's a bigger problem on saw plates and chisels. The pegboard isn't quite as handy for the woodworking tools either as I would prefer to have the edge tools in wood holders of some sort that won't damage the edges and it would be nice to be able to move the holders to the tool tray of my bench when I'm working so that I don't have to keep turning around to grab what I need off the wall.

So I've decided that I may need to change my strategy on how I handle my woodworking tools due to the rust and the fact that the pegboard isn't as convenient for the woodworking tools as it is for the household stuff. I've heard some say that they fought rust issues much less after building a traditional tool chest for their woodworking tools. How many of you have found that to be the case?

The most basic decision I have to make is between a floor and wall chest. It's a small area, so floor space is at a premium. I do have the floor space for a traditional floor chest though if that turns out to be the best choice. The thing that makes the choice the most difficult for me is that my set of tools is still incomplete. I will undoubtedly need to add the following items as I tackle more projects: router plane, possibly a plow plane, a few more joinery saws, more marking, measuring, and layout tools, additional chisels, etc. Most of the people I see building chests have a pretty well defined set of tools that they use regularly so they can build the chest around those needs. I have a "work in progress" set of tools, so the beautiful wall chests that utilize every last 1/8" of space perfectly are not a possibility for me yet. I have to build something that will work for what I have now as well as what will be coming later, but I don't know exactly what will be coming later.

I need to build something that can accomodate my growing set of tools, help prevent rust as much as is possible in my climate, and make the best use of space possible. What do you guys think my best choices are?

PS, I know that the best rust inhibitor is using the tools regularly. The problem is that it's often 120* in my garage during the summer months, and so my tools are undoubtedly going to see significant periods where they don't get used because it's just too hot. I am doing this for fun after all...

Thanks,
D

[Zach Dillinger]

No question, a mid-to-large sized floor chest with basic sliding tills. Lots of space to add tools, flexibly organized so that you can find what you need, and closes down for rust prevention. I've used floor chests for years and literally wouldn't know how to work without them.

[Dustin Keys]

No question, a mid-to-large sized floor chest with basic sliding tills. Lots of space to add tools, flexibly organized so that you can find what you need, and closes down for rust prevention. I've used floor chests for years and literally wouldn't know how to work without them.

Could you give me an idea of what you mean by mid-to-large size in dimensions?

D

[Jim Rimmer]

I can't really help here but just wanted to say hello and welcome to the Creek. I live in Sherman from '79 to '96 - loved it there. You'll get plenty of help here.

[Richard Verwoest]

Since floor space is at a premium, how about making a "clam shell" type wall cabinet as big as you have space for. Within reason of course. Then outfitting the interior with french cleats. Then you can make say a chisel holder fitted to your chisels with the cleat. Then it can be removed and moved to the bench if needed. Also, as your tools expand, you would be able to add another holder, or inlarge the original. You could also make some sort of stand for your bench top to except these french cleated tool holders. I would also add a sloped panel with dividers for hand planes. FWW had a nice article last year I beleive on this.

What ever you do, good luck and enjoy the process.

Cheers,

Hoss

[Curt Putnam]

Optimal storage forms depend on your work preferences. For rust prevention, my method is to use a rag upon which has been sprayed CorrosionX Heavy Duty. Mobil-1 motor oil will work as well. Keep the rag in something airtight so the volatiles don't run away. I've not tried it but mutton tallow is also said to be very good as well as being a good use lube for saws and planes.

My cast iron surfaces went 6 unused years in an unheated garage. The ones that were treated with CorrosionX had no rust. Even though the stuff and Mobil1 are petroleum products, you are just wiping on a microscopic coating. I've never had an issue with finishes being affected.

[Greg Portland]

On the wall above this storage unit (behind me as I stand at the bench) is a 4'x8' sheet of pegboard that I currently hang tools from. I went through a similar problem up here in Oregon. Basically, anything left exposed to the air is going to get morning dew on it which will result in rust. For flat items, the simple fix is to cover the surfaces with cardboard. For my planes, I used Boeshield T-9 as a protectant and then the oil that Lie-Nielsen sells (quick wipe after each use). I also use plane socks (sold by Veritas and LN) which is a good intermediate step until you get a cabinet. For the cabinet, consider something that will seal air-tight and throw in some large desiccant packs (usually sold for gun safes).

[John A. Callaway]

build a chest/cabinet and install a golden rod. they work good. That and apply a good coat of wax to each tool.

[Steven Lee, NC]

I saw these while perusing Lee Valley. They seemed pretty interesting, not sure if they would help in your situation.


http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=68931&cat=1,43456
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=59367&cat=1,43456
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=69378&cat=1,43456

[Andrae Covington]

Storing tools in an enclosed chest / cabinet definitely helps with rust. For one thing, it reduces the amount of dust (sawdust or otherwise) that collects on the tools; sawdust usually contains some moisture. Secondly, the enclosure reduces the temperature and humidity swings inside. Don't think that it can perform miracles though, unless you build an insulated, hermetically-sealed box. Even in moderate humidity rust will still form; it just happens at a slower pace. There are small-scale dehumidifier solutions that can be installed inside chests and cabinets, if it comes to that. GoldenRod is one product I've seen people here recommend.

From a rust-prevention standpoint, a traditional tool chest has a dust seal lip that mates with the lid, keeping out dust and moisture. A wall cabinet, if enclosed at all, typically has standard "kitchen cabinet" doors, which may have gaps. But perhaps the practical difference in inside humidity is minimal. I built a chest and have not used a tool cabinet, so I don't have comparative experience. But I do have experience in now storing my tools in a chest vs. out in the open in a humid Oregon basement. I have not had any rust problems since I built the chest even though, as life gets in the way, the tools suffer periods of disuse.

As far as accommodating a changing and growing set of tools, I think either a chest or cabinet can work, as long as you do not get too specific with the internal storage configuration. Stay away from french fitting and too many tiny compartments.

[John A. Callaway]

that third link is the golden rod. I have tried those drawer liners , but from Highland woodworking..... and it was only effective as a cushion from the cabinet shelf.

[george wilson]

Get some blocks of camphor from the internet. Used to be sold in drug stores. Place one in the CLOSED tool chest,maybe 1 per drawer if air can't circulate in the chest.

This is what old time machinists(and me,too) used to do to keep their tools from rusting in places like ship yards. The camphor(synthetic is o.k..) leaves a tiny film on the tools as it slowly evaporates. I can't remember how many months a block will last,but it is several.

Do not store tools against an outside wall,nor in a box on the floor. put it up on a table,a foot or so from the wall.

[Prashun Patel]

I bought some colored dessicant beads off the net some years back to keep moisture out of my safe. They start out blue, and then once they absorb moisture, they turn blue. You can microwave them back to red. (Maybe I have the colors backwards, but you get the idea).

I'm not sure that'll work in Texas, though. I lived in Houston for a couple years. It was dryer in the shower than outside in a H-town summer.

At the very least, I would make/buy a good medium sized toolchest that you can place smaller planes/chisels/irons in. Take this chest inside at the end of each session. You'll still have to contend with steel tables and jointer planes, but at least yr shoulder and block planes'll stay spicnspan.

[Charlie Stanford]

I need a little guidance on this issue. I'm new to woodworking. I have been putting together a basic set of tools and building skills as a hobby for the last two years or so. First, I'll tell you the current state of affairs and then the problems I'm facing...

My shop is half of a two car garage. I have built a woodworking bench that is floating in the middle of my shop space. Behind me as I stand at the bench are some repurposed storage units along the wall (someone was throwing them away). They are about 30" tall with an open shelf on which I set my planes for quick access, and drawers that hold drills and bits as well as some other items. The top of these units are for liquids (alcohol, naptha, polishes, paste wax, etc) and collecting clutter. On the wall above this storage unit (behind me as I stand at the bench) is a 4'x8' sheet of pegboard that I currently hang tools from. I use the standard 1/4" pegboard hardware you find at the BORG to hang and organize the tools. On the other wall I have in my shop space, the short one, is a repurposed desk that I use for guitar work.

I live in northeast Texas, which faces high humidity and temperatures for much of the year as well as frequent and large swings of both humidity and temperature. It isn't a kind environment for tools. Most of my tools are old ones that I've found at flea markets and antique stores, cleaned up, and put to use. The pegboard that I use for most of my tools was an idea from my dad's shop. He isn't a big woodworker, so most of his tools are general household stuff. I loved how organized his tools were, and how easy it was to grab what you needed in his shop, so I went with the pegboard too. I'm beginning to decide that the pegboard is great for household tools, but not ideal for woodworking tools. Even though I've gone to religiously coating tools with oil and paste wax, I still have rust to deal with regularly on my woodworking tools. A little rust on an old wrench or screwdriver isn't that big of a deal but it's a bigger problem on saw plates and chisels. The pegboard isn't quite as handy for the woodworking tools either as I would prefer to have the edge tools in wood holders of some sort that won't damage the edges and it would be nice to be able to move the holders to the tool tray of my bench when I'm working so that I don't have to keep turning around to grab what I need off the wall.

So I've decided that I may need to change my strategy on how I handle my woodworking tools due to the rust and the fact that the pegboard isn't as convenient for the woodworking tools as it is for the household stuff. I've heard some say that they fought rust issues much less after building a traditional tool chest for their woodworking tools. How many of you have found that to be the case?

The most basic decision I have to make is between a floor and wall chest. It's a small area, so floor space is at a premium. I do have the floor space for a traditional floor chest though if that turns out to be the best choice. The thing that makes the choice the most difficult for me is that my set of tools is still incomplete. I will undoubtedly need to add the following items as I tackle more projects: router plane, possibly a plow plane, a few more joinery saws, more marking, measuring, and layout tools, additional chisels, etc. Most of the people I see building chests have a pretty well defined set of tools that they use regularly so they can build the chest around those needs. I have a "work in progress" set of tools, so the beautiful wall chests that utilize every last 1/8" of space perfectly are not a possibility for me yet. I have to build something that will work for what I have now as well as what will be coming later, but I don't know exactly what will be coming later.

I need to build something that can accommodate my growing set of tools, help prevent rust as much as is possible in my climate, and make the best use of space possible. What do you guys think my best choices are?

PS, I know that the best rust inhibitor is using the tools regularly. The problem is that it's often 120* in my garage during the summer months, and so my tools are undoubtedly going to see significant periods where they don't get used because it's just too hot. I am doing this for fun after all...

Thanks,
D

Tool chest(s) or tool cabinets. Nothing prevents rust like a thin layer of Vaseline. Frankly, you could leave them on the pegboard and they still wouldn't rust. If they will see significant periods of idleness, then removing the Vaseline won't be a hassle like it would if you were getting into the shop three or four times a week.

[David Weaver]

I have been using this:

http://eddiecastelin.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/docs/SandingWax.54184013.pdf

You have to get mineral oil and beeswax to mix, but pesticide-free beeswax is available on ebay for $6 a pound and mineral oil is about $12 a gallon at a farm store or commercial kitchen supply place (and light mineral oil is useful enough to have around for all kinds of stuff, anyway).

I haven't gotten through the first quart in two years, and I've been putting it on everything from metal to tool handles. It doesn't dry hard (just rub some on in a thin coat), it doesn't stink, and it's never hard to get off of a tool.

Works great on cracked hands and lips in winter, too. It feels like a medium hard paste wax, but isn't nearly as hard as beeswax itself. And I suppose you could use it as a prep in turning, I've just never used it for that.

[Kenneth Speed]

Dave Weaver's beeswax recipe sounds like a good idea that I may try although I don't know what it has to do with sanding.

I routinely wipe all my tools with an oily rag I keep in an uncovered quart paint can. Nothing fancy about the oil at all, in fact it's literally a Devils Brew of various light machine oils and the rag is....ummm....... unsightly to say the least but my tools stay very rust free. If you have hand tools that come apart like planes, disassemble them when you're done using them and clean them of trapped wood chips and use the oily rag. If there's anything I'm obsessive about it is oiling hand saw blades I ol them before and after I use them and sometimes I think I oil them just to be sure they're oiled!!! Like I said, obsessive!

Keeping tools in drawers is a good plan although I keep my planes and similar tools on two shelve of my workbench so they're quickly and easily accessible when I'm working. I wouldn't claim keeping my tools under my bench top is a perfect system, the tools get dusty too quickly, but it works fairly well for me.

I could be more disciplined about this but I try to put away tools I'm not using, especially edged tools; this minimizes both rust and inadvertent damage.

[David Posey]

What is pesticide beeswax? I've used a similar mixture on cutting boards and I'm wondering if I should be concerned.

This stuff is great on tools. You can vary the consistency of the mixture with different oil/wax ratios. The last batch I mixed was about the consistency of butter at room temperature. I used a double boiler to mix mine.

If anyone makes this, just be sure not to use direct heat as the flash point of mineral oil is fairly low.

[David Weaver]

Sorry, I edited my post to fix that. It's pesticide-free beeswax.

I don't know if that really matters, it doesn't to me, but it doesn't cost anything extra to get it vs. beeswax where it's not otherwise specified (I'd guess pesticides might mean stuff used to kill mites, etc, and other things that bother european honey bees - maybe a bee person could tell us).

I guess the important thing for cost reasons is to avoid liberon beeswax or whatever they're selling at michaels if it's in small amounts. what woodworking retailers want for beeswax and mineral oil is on the wrong side of nutty.

[David Weaver]

Dave Weaver's beeswax recipe sounds like a good idea that I may try although I don't know what it has to do with sanding.



Eddie castelin is someone who puts turning videos on youtube. I saw him use it once as a base for sanding and leveling a surface on a turning, and I figured it might be nice to have for tools. I guess for sanding it's a way to glom up the surface and keep all of the dust stuck to the piece to level the surface quickly.

I don't turn whole lot more than I have to, so I can't say how useful it would be for that. Certainly wouldn't be very good for hand sanding away from the lathe!

I keep a hunk of white scotchbrite (the stuff that doesn't really cut) loaded with a little bit of it and refresh it from the tub sometimes. White scotchbrite is a nice way to apply it because it has bite in the wax (to grab it easily) but not on the surface of old tools.

[Jim Rimmer]

I'm not sure that'll work in Texas, though. I lived in Houston for a couple years. It was dryer in the shower than outside in a H-town summer. .

It's a long way from Houston to Sherman (about 8 hour drive). You are right about the Houston humidity. Compared to Houston, Sherman is a desert. :D It can get pretty humid there though.

[Jim Neeley]

I use a "Gerstner" style http://www.gerstnerusa.com/CARTgallery5.htm wooden tool chest with roller base, placing VCI anti-corrosion emitting foam mats http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=90059-46478-90059&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3374228&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 under my tools. For a couple of "high-value" drawers (like the one holding my L-N #8, #6, #5, #4-1/2 and #4) bench planes I add a $5 capsule emitterhttp http://www.lowes.com/pd_34995-46478-VC2-1_0__?Ntt=corrosion+inhibitor&productId=3373774&rpp=24 to the drawer.

The original Gerstners are very high quality and mega-bucks but I found a cheap knock-off set on Craigslist for $150 (upper chest and lower rolling base on casters). An example of knockoffs can be found http://www.harborfreight.com/eight-drawer-wood-tool-chest-94538.html. The balance of my WW tools are less accessible in a 24"x24"x42" metal toolbox (again, from Craigslist, $200).

Be aware the emitters are only valuable in areas that are usually enclosed, since they work by releasing a small amount of corrosion inhibitor which only works if it isn't blown away from the tools.

I'm closing on a new home (and shop!) today and have plans to build a wall cabinet to get the tools out of the metal toolbox but intend to keep the "gerstner" because it's so handy having the majority of my tools at my fingertips. It's worked for me for the last several years, preventing 100% of the rust; I don't live in a long-term 100% humidity area but it does get there from time to time!! Give it a little consideration. It's another approach.

Jim

[Frederick Gross]

I blow the dust off and apply a light coat of Camilla oil before they go back in the tool box. I have a shop made applicator made out of PVC pipe and a rolled up t-shirt to apply the Camilla oil.

[Carl Beckett]

The cabinet heaters will keep the temp up and thus relatively less humidity. They will only work via temperature though (another alternative might be an insulated box and an under the floor type heater). But in HOT humid climates it gets harder.

When I lived in Puerto Rico I vacuum packed all the tools I wasnt using in food vacuum pack bags with oil sprayed in. A little extreme, but they didnt rust!! (EVERYTHING else rusted).

The very best thing is to USE them a lot.

Also I use the T-9.

Regular wipe down with wax.

Bring them inside when possible (inside to a controlled climate area).

Some combination of all of the above. (meaning, I have never really resolved this issue). One time I opened my shop door and warm moist air came in and immediately condensed on every surface since it was cooler inside the shop overnight.

[Dustin Keys]

Thanks so much for all the help guys! It looks like the preference is for tool chests and there have been a lot of great rust prevention tips. The camphor blocks and goldenrod sound like really great ideas that I wasn't aware of. The camphor is really cheap, so I may start with that and see how it works for me. Now to start looking over tool chest plans....

I think you guys are right about the chest growing with me as long as I build it fairly large and use a pretty generic interior design for the time being. Most of the ones I've seen use open sliding trays, so that wouldn't lock me into any particular tools. I will be careful to build it in such a way that I can easily reconfigure it as I begin to hone in on what my main tools are. It is likely that I'll buy or build another house in the years to come, so a customized wall cabinet may make more sense at that time.

D

[george wilson]

I keep a goldenrod in my gun cabinet.

[Charlie Stanford]

Thanks so much for all the help guys! It looks like the preference is for tool chests and there have been a lot of great rust prevention tips. The camphor blocks and goldenrod sound like really great ideas that I wasn't aware of. The camphor is really cheap, so I may start with that and see how it works for me. Now to start looking over tool chest plans....

I think you guys are right about the chest growing with me as long as I build it fairly large and use a pretty generic interior design for the time being. Most of the ones I've seen use open sliding trays, so that wouldn't lock me into any particular tools. I will be careful to build it in such a way that I can easily reconfigure it as I begin to hone in on what my main tools are. It is likely that I'll buy or build another house in the years to come, so a customized wall cabinet may make more sense at that time.

D

In the meantime the only thing standing between you and complete rust protection (especially on rarely used tools) is the 89 cents you'll have to pay for a small jar of generic petroleum jelly at any drug or grocery store.

If you run across camphor, pesticide-free beeswax, or camelia oil down at Walgreen's please let us all know.

[David Keller NC]

Dustin - The best rust protection isn't film-forming anti-corrosion compounds, nor any sort of oil or wax.

The best protection is to lower the humidity to less than about 60%. Yes, you can do this in a tool chest, a tool cabinet, a few rubbermaid boxes, and other enclosures. But that doesn't fix the overall problem - you mentioned your shop (garage) is way too hot and humid to work in during the summer.

So why not fix both problems at once? Spend about $200 on some pink paper-lined insulation, and another $300 on a window-mount heat pump. These modern heat pumps are extraordinarily efficient compared to the old-school window air conditioning units, and they have the bonus of allowing you to heat your shop in the winter. You can set your heat pump at a relatively high temperature (e.g., 85 deg F) when you're not in the shop to save electricity, and lower it to a more comfortable working temperature when desired. As long as the heat pump runs intermittenly about once every hour or so, it will keep the humidity in your shop well below the rust point, and will also considerably reduce the complexity in calculations/judgment needed to factor in the wood movement you'll experience in your projects when you move them from a hot and humid space to the inside of your home when they're complete.

[Charlie Stanford]

Dustin - The best rust protection isn't film-forming anti-corrosion compounds, nor any sort of oil or wax.

The best protection is to lower the humidity to less than about 60%. Yes, you can do this in a tool chest, a tool cabinet, a few rubbermaid boxes, and other enclosures. But that doesn't fix the overall problem - you mentioned your shop (garage) is way too hot and humid to work in during the summer.

So why not fix both problems at once? Spend about $200 on some pink paper-lined insulation, and another $300 on a window-mount heat pump. These modern heat pumps are extraordinarily efficient compared to the old-school window air conditioning units, and they have the bonus of allowing you to heat your shop in the winter. You can set your heat pump at a relatively high temperature (e.g., 85 deg F) when you're not in the shop to save electricity, and lower it to a more comfortable working temperature when desired. As long as the heat pump runs intermittenly about once every hour or so, it will keep the humidity in your shop well below the rust point, and will also considerably reduce the complexity in calculations/judgment needed to factor in the wood movement you'll experience in your projects when you move them from a hot and humid space to the inside of your home when they're complete.

If somebody held a gun to my head I'd bet the OP has thought/dreamed of putting a/c in his garage. I doubt there are any woodworkers in Texas working in garages who haven't.

[Dustin Keys]

Dustin - The best rust protection isn't film-forming anti-corrosion compounds, nor any sort of oil or wax.

The best protection is to lower the humidity to less than about 60%. Yes, you can do this in a tool chest, a tool cabinet, a few rubbermaid boxes, and other enclosures. But that doesn't fix the overall problem - you mentioned your shop (garage) is way too hot and humid to work in during the summer.

So why not fix both problems at once? Spend about $200 on some pink paper-lined insulation, and another $300 on a window-mount heat pump. These modern heat pumps are extraordinarily efficient compared to the old-school window air conditioning units, and they have the bonus of allowing you to heat your shop in the winter. You can set your heat pump at a relatively high temperature (e.g., 85 deg F) when you're not in the shop to save electricity, and lower it to a more comfortable working temperature when desired. As long as the heat pump runs intermittenly about once every hour or so, it will keep the humidity in your shop well below the rust point, and will also considerably reduce the complexity in calculations/judgment needed to factor in the wood movement you'll experience in your projects when you move them from a hot and humid space to the inside of your home when they're complete.


I don't have a window, so I would have to use a portable A/C unit. The problem is that the heat is just too much. I would have to spend a lot more than $500 to make this work, and even then it wouldn't work very well. When we come home in the evening, it's still 100* or so. Opening the garage door for a few minutes for my wife to park the car and unload along with the radiating heat from my wife's car (which is black) being in there is just too much for one of these units to recover from in any reasonable period of time. It would be an expensive and inefficient project that just wouldn't work very well. It's a nice thought, but I just don't think it will work. My garage door and outside wall catch direct sunlight almost all day. I would love air conditioning, but it would cost too much and I'm considering moving in a year or two so I don't want to spend the money on a permanent solution.

I just work with other hobbies during the hottest part of the summer. I never have a shortage of things to keep me busy!

D

[David Kuzdrall]

I built a tool chest based on the book from Schwarz in Dec. To address the corrosion, I included a Goldenrod dehumidifier and corrosion emitters on the bottom drawer and under the lid. I always use camellia old and so far I have ZERO issues with rust of any kind. I am working out of a 2-car garage so I am in a similar situation.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

If the tools aren't being used for large periods of time that coincide with the biggest problems, it seems the biggest help might be to remove them from that environment during that time period.

If the issue is mainly humidity over temperature (my problem is high humidity in my house settling on things when it hits the back room where it gets colder because we're too cheap to heat the house much - while it gets humid in the summer, it thankfully hasn't been much of an issue for rust if I keep things cleaned of dust and fingerprints) I wonder if a dehumidifier would be a helpful, and possibly more effective than an AC type unit? I haven't any experience with these outside of the one my parents have had in their basement forever, and living in VT, obviously my climate issues are much different than yours!

[Kenneth Speed]

I find it interesting that we have discussed all sorts of alternatives for keeping machinery and tools free of rust and nobody has mentioned the article in the 8/2012 FWW which conducted a test on this very issue. A product called CRC 3 36 was found to be the best but regular WD-40 was also rated fairly highly. Waxes and oils didn't perform nearly as well as the spray oils. The only spray product that seemed to cause some trouble with glue adhesion was a product called LPS 3.

You can get a can of WD 40 almost anywhere and while it isn't the BEST rust fighter it's still very good; seems like a no brainer to me!

[ray hampton]

if we are talking about tools without wood handles, dipping them in a thin oil and hang them up to drip-dry

[Dominic Greco]

Not to sound like a broken record, but those Goldenrod Dehumidifers already mentioned in this thread are pretty freaking awesome. Of course, they are not suited to anything mobile. A wall mounted cabinet is perfect for them.

My tools are in an unheated garage. And the temperature fluctuations were causing me to experience rust from condensation. No matter how often I applied paste wax, or wiped the tools down with a rag soaked in Topcoat, the rust still came back. Back in Sept of 2009 I ended up installing the smallest Goldenrod dehumidifier they sell.

It took hardly any effort. I just needed to drill a couple of vent holes to help with air movement. Since that time I haven't had ANY condensation related rust issues. If I don't wipe a plane down after using it, I'll still get a slight discoloration. But nothing like I did before.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I think the thing the FWW missed is that a lot of how well something works depends on how frequently you apply it. Pretty much anything, even just extra jojoba oil from when my wife makes cosmetics type stuff works for me because I'm usually in my shop enough that things are getting used enough that everything's getting hit with oil pretty regularly - the protection only needs to last until the next time I rub some oil on the tool. Which if things are going well in life, will hopefully be the next day. If something's not going to get used for a long while, then I need to put something on there that's going to offer longer protection. That said, it looks like from the article like WD40 might be a good solution either way, although I think something even higher tech might be better once we start talking weeks. Certainly if something isn't going to be used for months or a whole season or something, something like vaseline or cosmoline or something thick like that that almost "seals" the surface from the environment might be a good solution. I mean, there's probably a reason that a new vise shipped on the slow boat from asia comes coated in that stuff.

I've heard nothing but good things about the goldenrod, but I wonder how well it works when dealing with a high temperature and high humidity situation? My understanding was that by keeping the temp. high enough in the cabinet, and keeping the contents warm enough, it prevented moist, air from leaving condensing on cooler objects when it comes in contact with them - obviously the OP isn't living in a rainforest, but does that concept still work with the humidity is very high and the temp. high? If it's humid enough that the relative humidity is still high at 100+ degrees, can raising the temp. more still dry out the air in the cabinet? Maybe I'm misunderstanding something about how those things work, or underestimating the way temperature and humidity interact at the temperatures the goldenrod works at. I admit I'm not the brightest in this field, and the OPs issues may only arise during times when the temp. and humidity swing one way or the other. ( I know I can certainly leave tools outside all day with no problem, but if they're exposed during the swing from dawn temps to day temps, it's an issue. . . )

The other thing that's been mentioned, but always bears repeating is to keep things clean! Humidity in and of itself is an issue, but when things get covered with dust, the dust helps attract that moisture in the air. If you have body oils in that mix of dust, the salts in your sweat and oils can really add to making things worse as now you have attracted moisture combined with that salt making a recipe for rust.

[Kenneth Speed]

Joshua makes some good points inasmuch as almost anything will work if it's used often. I worked in a shop where they used diesel fuel as an oil on saw tables as rust proofing and a lubricant.


I have nothing against the Goldenrod except that it really needs to be in a closed cabinet to work well. I don't keep all of my tools in a closed cabinet ( I'm not sure I could design a cabinet to hold everything! LOL!!) so I rely on oiling things. I think I will try that sanding wax; if for no other reason I have about twelve or fifteen pounds of beeswax I bought ages ago that I've never used for anything.

I carry a piece of beeswax in my shop apron to use as a lubricant on handsaw blades, screws, and saw tables but i still wipe almost everything but the cat with my Devil's brew soaked rag.

Yeah, what he said about body oils and sweat! I have a LN large shoulder plane that I have to be insanely vigilant about to keep from rusting particularly where I hold it. I think it gets even with me because I often notice I've collected a tiny new cut when I use it!

[Andrae Covington]

...I've heard nothing but good things about the goldenrod, but I wonder how well it works when dealing with a high temperature and high humidity situation? My understanding was that by keeping the temp. high enough in the cabinet, and keeping the contents warm enough, it prevented moist, air from leaving condensing on cooler objects when it comes in contact with them - obviously the OP isn't living in a rainforest, but does that concept still work with the humidity is very high and the temp. high? If it's humid enough that the relative humidity is still high at 100+ degrees, can raising the temp. more still dry out the air in the cabinet?...

I believe your description is correct. Technically speaking, it's not actually a dehumidifier. By increasing the temperature a degree or two above ambient, it raises the dew point and therefore prevents condensation. The moisture is still in the air, it just doesn't condense on the tools. Theoretically, as long as the ambient temperature is less than the ~150° operating temperature of the GoldenRod, it should work.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Oh - I didn't realize the Goldenrod went that high! I guess I should have done some research.

Kenneth's point about the goldenrod needing to be in a closed environment to work most effectively. I think it's actually a good argument for a chest over a cabinet - seems like getting a really good seal on a chest feels like it'd be easier than getting a really good seal on a cabinet.

[Kenneth Speed]

Out of curiosity and because I have a huge amount of beeswax ( don't ask) I made the turners wax that was mentioned in this thread. I haven't used it yet but it sure smells a lot better than my dirty old rag soaked with my devil's brew of oil.

I made the mixture and poured it into a clean coffee can that has a plastic lid. There'll be plenty of room to keep a rag in the can too.

The beeswax mixture is harder than Vaseline but softer than paste wax but other than that its hard to describe.

I'll give a short critique of the beeswax mixture after I've used it a couple of times.

Ken

[Carl Beckett]

I believe your description is correct. Technically speaking, it's not actually a dehumidifier. By increasing the temperature a degree or two above ambient, it raises the dew point and therefore prevents condensation. The moisture is still in the air, it just doesn't condense on the tools. Theoretically, as long as the ambient temperature is less than the ~150° operating temperature of the GoldenRod, it should work.

This is my understanding as well - you are heating the tools to above dew point, to prevent condensation. Note that just because the goldenrod runs at 150 - doesnt mean the tools are this high. Its a matter of the heat loss of the cabinet in which they are kept - (Watts) - and 'could' require some insulation (there will be a temp gradient inside the cabinet). Other heaters (with a safety shutoff) would do the job as well. And for sure, hot humid environments will be harder to manage via temp increase.

(personally, I have been eyeing the under the floor electric heaters - they can lay flat and have a controller - but instead am going to try adding a split mini heat pump to the entire shop and fix the problem properly)