Threading Jig from UK selling on eBay - Anyone ever used this model?

[Mike Peace]

A guy (Boffin53) is selling new 16 tpi threading jigs on eBay for about $122 (75 -80 GBP). . The shipping is high since it comes from the UK. I got an email response that it would be 20 GBP which is about $32 for air mail.

Anyone used this specific product and if so what is your feedback?

Quite a bit cheaper than the Klein or Baxter jigs. There was a review in the British magazine that made them sound pretty good, but don't know that I have ever seen a bad product review in a magazine. I used a friend's Baxter jig but this is about 1/3 the price. From what I have seen, the reviews on eBay all appear positive in handling and on the jig. They look pretty good and use a design that mounts on the banjo. That design probably makes them a little less versatile in using on different model lathes since you have to get one that fits your specific lathe banjo.

[Jim Burr]

You're going to be the test subject Mike!

[Rick Markham]

I'll be extremely interested to see how you like it Mike. It looks like a neat tool. Can you cut both the inside and outside threads with it?

[Tim Rinehart]

Mike, this looks like a nice little package. The cost of the cutter is likely the highest price piece.
I've made a homebuilt version of this, but haven't played with it much.
I just used some 3/4"-16 threaded rod, a $17 adapter (LA3418) for the chuck from PSI and 2 nuts held in a crossvise to secure the threaded rod. A better way uses threaded UHMW which I think I have from a friend already to go...just haven't taken time to try out yet.
I suspect it will be a bit of trial and error on the inside/outside setup, set the elevation and such, but after going thru one or two, will probably figure out the trick.
I bought my cutter from WT Tool, a 3/8" shank 60 degree double angled cutter, about $22. WT item 0840-0015

Look forward to your review if you decide to go for it!

Regardless whether you buy this package or make yourself...be sure to hold chuck or collet with a drawbar that secures the mill...wouldn't want that little puppy walking out at high speed!!:eek:

[Mike Peace]

I just made a threading jig this past weekend but not 100% satisfied with it so considering alternatives.

Tim, I got my cutter from Enco for the same price you paid. Am using the same threaded rod but got the cheaper PSI Internal Spindle Adapter #LA3418X for $9.95. Definitely using a draw bar for my collet. It is not running 100% true without any machining and just the adapter tightened up to a backing nut.

[Tim Rinehart]

The one attempt I made had me dealing with non-straightness of the threaded rod, so as it advanced, it also went somewhat eccentric. I think if I can just reduce the amount of threaded rod behind the chuck, it should minimize that runout.
The fortunate thing and the way I've talked about it with other turners locally (some of who are adept machinists), is that it is just wood...so a little runout shouldn't pose a big issue since wood threads typically run a bit loose.

You have me thinking about getting my rig out again and having another go at it!

[Rick Markham]

Tim, instead of threaded rod for holding the chuck, he is just using a chuck reversing adapter (with a morse taper on the other end) I can't remember who makes it (I have one) but it's machined specifically for a chuck so it should have minimal runout (if any)

[Reed Gray]

Any pictures of the set up? I have had a Klein jig for years. Very time consuming. I never used the chuck for mounting pieces though. I used Bonnie's suggestion of threaded nuts epoxied into scrap blocks. You can do a bunch at once.

robo hippy

[Tim Rinehart]

Tim, instead of threaded rod for holding the chuck, he is just using a chuck reversing adapter (with a morse taper on the other end) I can't remember who makes it (I have one) but it's machined specifically for a chuck so it should have minimal runout (if any)

The runout I was dealing with was more from the threaded rod not being perfectly straight. I too am using a threaded adapter for a chuck. Since the threaded rod is rotated to provide the 16 tpi thread, any runout in the threaded rod not being straight can cause the threads to be off somewhat. My thought was to shorten the distance between the adapter and the overhung area of the threaded rod to reduce that impact.

A nice homemade setup by Jean Michel (I believe he passed away several years ago) is still present on his site that many folks have used. Instead of using the lathe to drive the threading mill, he used a router motor which keeps the lathe free to do what it does best! Here's a link to those plans.. http://www.atbq.qc.ca/jm2/thread.htm that I came across on Woodcentral.

[Peter Fabricius]

Thanks Mike for posting this.
I am interested in one and have toyed with the home made version BUT, there are issues with getting the right materials and getting them to run straight.
So, I sent an email to Kevin Boffin in the UK and he sent more detailed pictures and a bit of a description. He make the unit in his shop and assures me that the cross slide is solid and only needs to move a little bit to set the thread depth. The threaded rod (16TPI is 1" diameter) and very capable of carrying the heavy chucks (Oneway Stronghold).
Hope this helps.
Anyone interested in importing a bunch and selling them?
Attached is the pictures sent by Kevin. Note the Word Doc file with pictures is 1.72MB and too large to attach. Will try to make it into a thumbnail and try again.
Enjoy, this looks like a simpler setup than the units that I have seen so far.
Peter F.

[Richard Madden]

Dick Mahaney here at SMC made a nice threading jig and with his help I copied it. Mine will cut only 14 tpi, but it works just fine. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?144917-Urn-with-threaded-lid&p=1474750

[Rick Markham]

Richard, are you willing to share how you put that little beauty together? :D That is super sweet!

[Richard Madden]

Rick,
I'm more than happy to share. Being as lazy as I am I copied a PM reply from a couple of years ago where someone was asking about the jig. If you have any questions, you can PM if you want.
As I said before, I can't take any credit for this jig, Dick Mahaney here on SMC gave me the idea, I just copied his. Really, this thing is very simple. The vice is a cross sliding, or some call it a X-Y vice. It came from Harbor Freight and cost around $50.00. Catch it on sale or with HF discount coupons (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/#) and it can be had cheaper. It has the name "Bitmoore" on it. There are many others out there that would work just as well. The important thing about the vice is the height of the vice table in relation to your lathe's swing. Mine has a 16" swing and this vice is around 5" to the table, or gripping platform. A friend then welded two pieces of 1"x1" square tubing together, and a third piece of tubing perpendicular to the first two. The tubing was all 6" long. Then, two 7/8"x14 nuts were welded on top with a 12" length of 7/8"x14tpi rod in the nuts to keep them squared up with each other. So with all that the center line of the threaded rod was real close to being centered with my spindle. If I ever want threads of a different size besides 14tpi, the spacer size will have to re-figured to get centered with the spindle height. I had to buy an adapter for my chuck to fit the 7/8"x14 threaded rod and I have a lock nut backing up the adapter. Lastly, a 3/4" 60 degree cutter from Enco is in a Jacobs chuck installed in the headstock. In use, the cutter is spinning at pretty high speed, I think around 1600rpm or so. The vice allows you to adjust the piece to be threaded in and out for thread depth and back and forth. It's very important to use a draw bolt to keep the Jacobs chuck safely in the spindle. As I said, if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

[Rick Markham]

Thanks Richard! I might have to try and build one of these.