Please educate me on the various shop oils

[Victor Robinson]

Air tool oil. 3 in 1 oil. Light machine oil. Shredder oil.

I don't really understand the difference between the various oils that are used for cleaning, maintaining, and lubricating various tools around the shop. I just know that I'm supposed to put air tool oil in my nailers once in a while, so I do. And I know light machine oil is often used to lubricate various threads and bolts, e.g. the arbor nut on my table saw or the screws in my bandsaw's guide apparatus or the bearings on my SCMS. But I'm not sure which to use where and when or more importantly, which NOT to use where. When is using some 3 in 1 oil the same as using some T9 (yes I know, technically not an oil), and where would I NOT want to use either? Is there an oil that covers most of the needs in the shop, or are they all really that different?

I know it's kind of broad, but could you guys educate me on this subject? I've let it elude me for far too long.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Victor, for most shop oiling needs I use SAE #30, or #20 monograde oil, in a couple of different oil cans. (Not 10W30 for example). A litre will last you a lifetime.

I have a standard pump type oil can, and a small plastic can with an extendable thin tube that's great for getting into tight areas.


The only other lubricants you may need would be something like a gear oil (EP90 for example) for gearboxes on planers, or a dry lubricant such as an aerosol graphite for lead screws on saw elevation mechanisms etc.

Of course if you have a machine that specifies a certain lubricant, then use it.

regards, Rod.

[Ron Natalie]

WD40 and Duct Tape. If it moves and it shouldn't: Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and it should: WD40.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

One thing to consider with oil is its viscosity, ie, how easily does it flow. Think of water as low-viscosity and honey as high-viscosity.

When I use the word spindle, think of something that spins on a shaft (not entirely true, but close enough for rough estimations).

That brings us to Spindle oils, which are usually low-viscosity mineral oils for use in lubrication of high-speed machine spindles.

You mention 3 in 1 oil specifically. 3 in 1 oil is a pale spindle oil with a small amount of corrosion inhibitor and citronella oil (which gives the product its distinctive sharp odor). This oil was developed as a lubricant for bicycle chains.

When I hear the term "light machine oil", I think of any low-viscosity oil such as sewing machine oil. 3 in 1 might also be considered a machine oil (I think anyway).

WD-40 was originally designed to repel water and prevent corrosion. From the WIKI site WD-40 is a viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. The oil is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus penetrate crevices. The hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then evaporates away. These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, and extricating stuck screws and bolts are common usages. The product also may be useful in displacing moisture, as this is its original purpose and design intent.

In other words, think of WD-40 is Mineral oil mixed with something like Mineral Spirits or kerosine. The Mineral Spirits / Kerosine / Naptha then evaporate

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Surprised there have been no more posts on this. I just wanted to add one thing..... I am told that the 3-in-1 oil changed formulations so it evaporates faster, sawdust clings more to it than it used it, and it is leaving a residue after it evaporates away.

If you are looking for a light machine oil, consider a sewing machine oil such as this highly recommended product:

http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Tri-Flow_Superior_Drip_Lubricant.html

Check the reviews on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UWHNUA

Just thought that I would mention it.

[Mark W Pugh]

The Aug Fine Woodworking magazine has a great article in it talking about oils.The pick was CRC Industrial 3-36 spray.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-03005-11oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B00192EX10/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1342644966&sr=1-1&keywords=crc+3-36

[Victor Robinson]

Thanks for the info everyone. I get confused by the different types of oils and lubes and never know which is the best for which job.

What would be a good general purpose light oil to clean and lube machine screws (on various shop equipment)? Would triflow be a good choice? Perhaps it would attract less sawdust? But I imagine it's still more oily than a dry lube like T9.

What about the oil you are supposed to drip into air-powered nailers? That seems like a very very light oil. Would triflow work for that as well?

[Victor Robinson]

The Aug Fine Woodworking magazine has a great article in it talking about oils.The pick was CRC Industrial 3-36 spray.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-03005-11oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B00192EX10/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1342644966&sr=1-1&keywords=crc+3-36

Thanks for the tip - will check that out. Now this product sounds similar to T9 but is silicone...so imagine you wouldn't want to use as a cast iron protectant lest the silicone get on your wood?

[Mark W Pugh]

Thanks for the tip - will check that out. Now this product sounds similar to T9 but is silicone...so imagine you wouldn't want to use as a cast iron protectant lest the silicone get on your wood?

The article did apply this to a a jointer table and various tools. The tools were worked across boards then the boards were finished with oil and water based products. No evidence of the spray was evident. I'm not quite sure on table surfaces, I'll still use wax.

[Myk Rian]

SAE 30 ND is in my oil cans. Cheap and easy to find.
I also keep a small can of sewing machine oil on the shelf.

[Victor Robinson]

The article did apply this to a a jointer table and various tools. The tools were worked across boards then the boards were finished with oil and water based products. No evidence of the spray was evident. I'm not quite sure on table surfaces, I'll still use wax.

Yeah, actually I'm not sure if CRC is silicone as that's what a reviewer on Amazon said and may not be correct...

[Andrew Pitonyak]

What would be a good general purpose light oil to clean and lube machine screws (on various shop equipment)? Would triflow be a good choice? Perhaps it would attract less sawdust? But I imagine it's still more oily than a dry lube like T9.

I expect to begin the process using a penetrating oil such as WD-40 or Liquid Wrench to work into the tight places and free things. What I expect next is related to what you really want to accomplish. Why do you want to lubricate your machine screws? Is this to prevent rust, or to make sure that you can loosen the screw later?

I believe that you can purchase an anti-seize lubricant, which is especially useful when two different types of metal are in contact (prevent metal corrosion and galling).

http://www.mcmaster.com/#antiseize-lubricants/=igsk6p

That said, a non-wet lubricant will probably suffice, and I think that I have even seen people use bees wax for this, but I did not verify.

If I really want the lubricant to stay put, I usually use a grease, but that attracts everything so would probably not work well in a wood working machine.


What about the oil you are supposed to drip into air-powered nailers? That seems like a very very light oil. Would triflow work for that as well?

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?151423-Dumb-question-Where-to-oil-my-nail-gun

[Rich Engelhardt]

What about the oil you are supposed to drip into air-powered nailers? That seems like a very very light oil. Would triflow work for that as well?I use Senco oil made for air tools. An 8oz bottle is pretty cheap. Considering the price of the nailers, I'd rather to be penny wise than pound foolish.

For every day grease I use Tetra gun grease and for a light oil, I use Rem -Oil.

Only because I have them around for - well - for the guns :D.

[Rich Bygness]

I could use some help finding the right oil as well. I recently bought at an auction an old Delta Milwaukee jigsaw (now called a Scroll Saw). I called customer service tech advice to get an instruction manual for it. Based on the serial no. the support guy told me that it had been built in Oct. 1945! It is in very good shape and I can tell it is very old because it is VERY,VERY heavy! The manual says to "fill the crankcase with light #10 oil. The capacity of the crankcase is approximately 1 1/4 pints." I didn't even know that scroll saws had a crankcase. Anyway, I am guessing the oil has not been changed in quite a while, so I am looking for the right oil to put in after I drain the old oil out. Recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I don't think that regular SAE 10 would be the oil to use. Thanks!

[Jim Neeley]

Rich,

Like they say, light #10 oil... I strongly suspect that SAE #10 it is! :)

[Chris Padilla]

It is always good to have a lot of this on hand...only WD-40 outperforms it, I think. :D

[Rich Bygness]

I called Delta tech service to see what he recommended. He said that SAE #10 is NOT the right oil to use in the crankcase of my 1945 Delta Milwaukee scroll saw. He said I should use 3-in-1 oil, just find someplace that sold it in larger containers (the instruction manual says it takes about 1 1/4 pints). He also told me to use 1 tsp of vaseline petroleum jelly to lubricate the top plunger assembly.

[ray hampton]

the oil in 1945 are different than the oil today if I am not mistaken

[Rich Bygness]

I am sure they are. Would you recommend something other than what the Delta customer service tech said I should use?

[Doug Ladendorf]

I called Delta tech service to see what he recommended. He said that SAE #10 is NOT the right oil to use in the crankcase of my 1945 Delta Milwaukee scroll saw. He said I should use 3-in-1 oil, just find someplace that sold it in larger containers (the instruction manual says it takes about 1 1/4 pints). He also told me to use 1 tsp of vaseline petroleum jelly to lubricate the top plunger assembly.

What?! 3-in1 in a crank case? I'm no expert but that sounds very suspect to me. Why not gear oil?

I have used dry moly lube with graphite on exposed gears with success. Doesn't attract sawdust.

I don't think of T9 as a lubricant but more of a protectant.

[ray hampton]

What?! 3-in1 in a crank case? I'm no expert but that sounds very suspect to me. Why not gear oil?

I have used dry moly lube with graphite on exposed gears with success. Doesn't attract sawdust.

I don't think of T9 as a lubricant but more of a protectant.

If we use oil in this crankcase and sawdust find it's way into the case, the wood dust when mix with the oil may become as think as grease
if wood dust can get in then the oil can get OUT

[Bill White]

Just be sure to use oil specifically for air tools in the air tools. It does not have the solvent content that would damage the "O" rings in the tools.
Wanna know how I found that out?
Bill