Completely New, Question about Table Saws

[Nathan Farrar]

Hello All,

I'm completely new to woodworking. I'm a computer scientist by profession. I've always wanted to learn woodworking, but haven't previously had the time, space and resources.
I've just purchased my first home, 3200 sqft with a completely unfinished basement. I want to eventually use half of it as a woodworking shop, but I plan to go that route slowly, starting with the most necessary tools first and purchasing what I need for additional projects as time goes on. I've read that the table saw is the heart of the workshop.

Here are the projects I'd like to tackle over time (yeah, I know it's a lot, and will consume many, many years - I'm looking forward to it). I think I've organized them in increasing difficulty.


Refinish patio stairs
Build a backyard jungle gym for daughter
Build a patio cover (i think it's called a pergola?)
Finish garage, drywall is already installed
Finish basement, insulation is already installed (1/2 woodworking shop, 1/2 "game room")
Build patio furniture set, including a built-in grill
Build a pool table
Build bedroom set for daughter


So with this in mind, what recommendations can you give me for purchasing a table saw? From what I've read, I may need a cabinet saw, but I'm hoping there might be a contractor saw out there that would be good for these projects, perhaps with a fence upgrade and a custom built table. Thanks!

[scott spencer]

Everyone's approach is a litte different Nathan...there's no universally correct way to get started. Many shops feature the table saw as the center of the shop, me included. It's versatile, and can make many cuts very cleanly. A cabinet saw would be great if it's in the budget, but it's not a necessity. A decent full size contractor saw with a belt drive induction motor and a good fence is plenty capable if well aligned and fitted with a good blade. A contractor saw isn't as heavy or as powerful as a cabinet saw, but it'll do a good job of most tasks.

I'd suggest getting a good book or two. The New Woodworker Handbook is excellent, and he's great a great website. The book focuses on setting up a shop, using and tuning the tools, as well as woodworking and finishing tips.

I'd also look into getting a router or two....an extremely versatile tool. I like to have one for table use and one for hand use....you may end up wanting even more!

[Shawn Pixley]

Welcome!

Looking at your list, everything up the patio furniture item, are really carpentry projects. These can be done with a minimum of tools (circular saw, drill, measuring devices, etc...). You can do them without a shop or much in the way of precision tools. Trying to outfit a shop and finishing the space around it at the same time will likely be an exercise in frustration. I would suggest wade in gradually, rather than jumping in the deep end all at once.

Some contrctor saws can work for cabinet making and furniture building. I have a Sawstop that I have rather tricked out (the PCS had not been introduced yet when I bought mine). I have been successful and seen others create quality work with inferior quality saws / tools. Start slowly and consider expert assistance / guidence before entering risky activities. You might inquire if there are classes nearby (or other Creekers) who could help you learn the proper and safe way. I have seen people (handymen, contractors) do some really stupid things and end up in very bad accidents (kickbacks, saw cuts, shrapnel).

Enjoy the journey!


Hello All,

I'm completely new to woodworking. I'm a computer scientist by profession. I've always wanted to learn woodworking, but haven't previously had the time, space and resources.
I've just purchased my first home, 3200 sqft with a completely unfinished basement. I want to eventually use half of it as a woodworking shop, but I plan to go that route slowly, starting with the most necessary tools first and purchasing what I need for additional projects as time goes on. I've read that the table saw is the heart of the workshop.

Here are the projects I'd like to tackle over time (yeah, I know it's a lot, and will consume many, many years - I'm looking forward to it). I think I've organized them in increasing difficulty.


Refinish patio stairs
Build a backyard jungle gym for daughter
Build a patio cover (i think it's called a pergola?)
Finish garage, drywall is already installed
Finish basement, insulation is already installed (1/2 woodworking shop, 1/2 "game room")
Build patio furniture set, including a built-in grill
Build a pool table
Build bedroom set for daughter


So with this in mind, what recommendations can you give me for purchasing a table saw? From what I've read, I may need a cabinet saw, but I'm hoping there might be a contractor saw out there that would be good for these projects, perhaps with a fence upgrade and a custom built table. Thanks!

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I opted for a SawStop because it is a great saw and I like its ability to save hot dogs (well, really I am more concerned about my fingers than hot dogs). I used to own a Ridgid (http://www.ridgid.com/tools/ts3650-table-saw/) contractor saw and the SawStop is a much better saw. I believe that the newer model is considered one of the better buys on contractor saws (http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/10-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw/EN/index.htm)

If I wanted a benchtop model saw, I would be more inclined toward the Bosch, but it is probably the same cost as the Ridgid.

In my basement, I am very concerned about dust collection, and the SawStop does pretty well with dust collection. Do you intend to use dust collection? If so, will you use a vacuum or a dedicated dust collector?

[doug faist]

I know you asked about a table saw, but from a different perspective I'm wondering if perhaps a good band saw and a miter saw wouldn't cover about 90% of what you have listed as projects. Throw in a couple of good planes and you could produce some nice work.

Just a thought.

Whatever way you pick to go, be safe and have fun.
Doug

[Nathan Farrar]

A cabinet saw would be great if it's in the budget, but it's not a necessity. A decent full size contractor saw with a belt drive induction motor and a good fence is plenty capable if well aligned and fitted with a good blade. A contractor saw isn't as heavy or as powerful as a cabinet saw, but it'll do a good job of most tasks.


I'd suggest getting a good book or two. The New Woodworker Handbook is excellent, and he's great a great website. The book focuses on setting up a shop, using and tuning the tools, as well as woodworking and finishing tips.


Scott,
Thanks for the advice. I'm still trying to determine whether or not I should spend more on a cabinet saw. I just got done reading through tons of reviews on the Rigid R4512. While it looks like I could probably do everything I want with it, I'm a rediculous perfectionist and it sounds like people end up spending a huge amount of time keeping this saw aligned correctly. I'm wondering if this would become frustrating for me and I'd regret not spending more on a saw that will take less effort to make more accurate cuts.


I'll grab the new woodworker handbook. Sounds like a great starting place :)





Welcome!


Looking at your list, everything up the patio furniture item, are really carpentry projects. These can be done with a minimum of tools (circular saw, drill, measuring devices, etc...). You can do them without a shop or much in the way of precision tools. Trying to outfit a shop and finishing the space around it at the same time will likely be an exercise in frustration. I would suggest wade in gradually, rather than jumping in the deep end all at once.


Some contrctor saws can work for cabinet making and furniture building. I have a Sawstop that I have rather tricked out (the PCS had not been introduced yet when I bought mine). I have been successful and seen others create quality work with inferior quality saws / tools. Start slowly and consider expert assistance / guidence before entering risky activities. You might inquire if there are classes nearby (or other Creekers) who could help you learn the proper and safe way. I have seen people (handymen, contractors) do some really stupid things and end up in very bad accidents (kickbacks, saw cuts, shrapnel).


Enjoy the journey!


Shawn,


I get what you're saying about wading in. I'd just hate to buy a saw and then not enjoy working with it and end up spending more money to upgrade to something I like more. I've seen the sawstop referenced several times now. The safety features look amazing, esspecially considering my fingers provide my livlihood. ;)


I've already checked out classes. Woodcraft offers ~ 20 or so. I'm planning to start up with them this fall. :)



I opted for a SawStop because it is a great saw and I like its ability to save hot dogs (well, really I am more concerned about my fingers than hot dogs). I used to own a Ridgid (http://www.ridgid.com/tools/ts3650-table-saw/) contractor saw and the SawStop is a much better saw. I believe that the newer model is considered one of the better buys on contractor saws (http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/10-Cast-Iron-Table-Saw/EN/index.htm)


If I wanted a benchtop model saw, I would be more inclined toward the Bosch, but it is probably the same cost as the Ridgid.


In my basement, I am very concerned about dust collection, and the SawStop does pretty well with dust collection. Do you intend to use dust collection? If so, will you use a vacuum or a dedicated dust collector?


Andrew,


I just checked out the Rigid R4512. From the reviews, it seems that it'll do most everything I want, but it's frustrating to most people to work with. Falls out of alignment relatively easily, etc. If I can swing it, I might try to snag the SawStop ...



I know you asked about a table saw, but from a different perspective I'm wondering if perhaps a good band saw and a miter saw wouldn't cover about 90% of what you have listed as projects. Throw in a couple of good planes and you could produce some nice work.


Just a thought.


Whatever way you pick to go, be safe and have fun.
Doug




Doug,


Thanks, great idea. I think I'm pretty set on starting with a table saw though :)

[Keith Westfall]

There is another thread about "advice" that informed me that even though I could but better tools, it wouldn't necessarily make me any better in what I do! (That was disappointing, but I suppose it's true...), so my take is: Buy the best you can afford and learn how to use it. No doubt that better equipment makes work 'easier' to accomplish, and you will probably get better quality of cuts, etc, but again not always better workmanship, because that depends on so many things - patience, your own "work standard" and desire to produce the best you can, not just as fast as you can.

I have the Ridgid (Cast Iron Top) and it's such a step up from the old Craftsman I had for so many years, to me it's amazing! It is a SawStop? Not even close. But for what I do, it's great. Would I buy a SawStop if I could afford it? Not sure -I think I am safe - at 61 I still have all my fingers - no kickbacks that damaged me or my shop - so my present saw is great for me.

No matter what you get, learn how to use it, what it will (and won't) do, and develop safe work habits right from the start, and you will have lots of fun times.

[Nathan Farrar]

I may actually have to go with something less expensive to start, like the Rigid R4512. Any suggestions on what the next step up from that would be?

[Bill Huber]

I got a jet contractor saw, I don't hear a lot about them but I really like it. The things I looked at were weight and size, I have a small shop with a wood floor and did not want something to heavy.
My Jet has the motor inside so it takes up less space then saws with the motor hanging out the back, it is belt drive. I did change the fence but the one that came on it was not that bad I was just used to the one I had on the old Craftsman. I did add aftermarket cast iron extension which are much better then stamped steel.
I took the time to set the saw up and it has held it with no problems. The saw has done everything I have ask it to do, 8/4 hardwood cuts and any other cuts.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

One other thought....... Many people totally forgo a table saw and buy something like a Festool track saw. If you buy it with the table, you can do much in a similar fashion to a table saw and you can also lay a large piece of Styrofoam insulation on the ground, place a sheet of plywood on that, and then place the track on the plywood. You can then cut a large sheet of plywood that may be difficult to run on your table saw.

I own a sawstop table saw and I purchased the Dewalt track saw, which can even work on a wall, something the festool cannot do. Note that I have not tried that yet. I purchased it on a super sale. Some people like the track saws to break down their plywood and then use the table saw to finish up.

I don't know how tight space is for you, but with the SawStop table saw, I turned the extension to the right into a router table. I purchased the 120V cabinet saw. I wanted the cabinet saw so that the motor would be enclosed with the saw rather than hanging off the back where one of my kids might happen to wander past it. I then purchased the fence upgrade because I heard that the fence was better. This also gave me slightly more room to the right of the blade. I modified the MDF extension to make it a router table. Unsure if space is enough of an issue for you to consider that or not.

My saw is in the basement. To get it there, I rented an appliance dolly from the local UHaul for about $20. I placed a piece of plywood on the dolly base and then tipped the saw up onto the plywood. the plywood prevented me from scratching the saw top, which was on the plywood facing down. This placed the weight on the bottom so the saw was stable. I could have moved the saw by myself, but that feels foolish and a helper was certainly useful. My only point on this is that the saw was very easy to get into the basement. When I moved a saw with the top and fence rails still attached, however, it was much more difficult. Moving one with the top and no rails was much easier but still very heavy. In both cases, we carried it out with two people after removing the motor and base (they were contractor saws).

My bread and butter is writing computer software, not working wood, so I wanted to spend more for increased safety with respect to saving my fingers, but, many on this forum are not as convinced that this technology is a needed item.... If you fall into the later camp, do not discount many of the other great saws that are out there. Also, if you watch Craigs list, you might find some great bargains. I traded a firearm for my first table saw. I rarely ever see a SawStop on Cragis list. The few times I saw it, they were asking new prices, which was simply crazy.

[Myk Rian]

From your project list, I would start with a miter saw, or SCMS. You are cutting a lot of 2x4 and 2x6s etc. Kinda tedious to do on a TS.

[scott spencer]

I may actually have to go with something less expensive to start, like the Rigid R4512. Any suggestions on what the next step up from that would be?

It's always a matter of opinion, but the more desirable feature upgrades would be a better fence, solid cast iron wings, full enclosure, more mass, and/or more power. Something like the Grizzly G0715P (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P) offers a fence upgrade, solid cast iron wings, full enclosure, and more mass for ~ $400 more ($894 shipped). The Craftsman 22116 (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-1-3-4-hp-premium-hybrid-10inch/p-00922116000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1) hybrid (made by Steel City/Orion) is also what I'd consider a step up. In addition, it offers big cabinet mounted trunnions which are easier to adjust, but note that it has a solid granite top instead of cast iron...it goes on sale in the $800-$900 range. There are others, but once you reach a certain price point, IMHO it'd be smart to at least consider the jump to a 3hp cabinet saw. The Grizzly G1023RL (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3-HP-220V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw/G1023RL) is among the best bangs for the buck in that category IMO, and is on sale for $1294 shipped. It cost less than some hybrids, but is substantially more saw under the hood. It's worth noting than any motor that's a true 2hp or more is best hooked up to a 220v circuit, which is something to consider.

[Terry Therneau]

For a different perspective I would suggest the owwm.com site (old wood working machinery). I've gone that route, and have managed to outfit an impressive shop for a reasonable amount. Delta unisaw (1948), Wallace-Turner band saw (50's), Yates jointer (early 40s), Delta scroll saw, Dewalt radial arm, Solem planer (1926). All solid, with an average cost per machine of about $250. Drills, circular saws, etc are modern.

Terry T.

[Brian Tymchak]

From your project list, I would start with a miter saw, or SCMS. You are cutting a lot of 2x4 and 2x6s etc. Kinda tedious to do on a TS.


+1. Just what I was thinking. Also, the miter saw can be more mobile than a cabinet or contractors saw, which given your list of projects, I think there's a high probability that will be cutting treated lumber at some point. You want to do this outside!!

[Roger Feeley]

Refinish patio stairs
Build a backyard jungle gym for daughter
Build a patio cover (i think it's called a pergola?)
Finish garage, drywall is already installed
Finish basement, insulation is already installed (1/2 woodworking shop, 1/2 "game room")
Build patio furniture set, including a built-in grill
Build a pool table
Build bedroom set for daughter


I agree that everything up to the Patio furniture set is carpentry and can be done without a table saw. That might not be entirely the case depending on what you want to do in the basement. I would get a good cutoff/miter saw and a stand. For a beginner, I like the idea of the blade in a known position instead of a handheld skil saw. It's easier to visualize and maintain the 3" safety zone around something that doesn't move much.

I suggest that you get very high quality blades and that you get two of every blade you buy. That way, when a blade starts getting dull, you don't try to muscle through your current project. A dull blade doesn't just give rough cuts. It's harder to control, it's harder to be accurate and it's just plain unsafe. Just because you have to grunt to get a dull blade to cut a board doesn't mean that it wont' cut you. If you have a sharp blade standing by, you swap it out instead of trying to get through the current project on a dull blade.

All that said, I would go for the Sawstop table saw. I have one and don't regret it a bit. There is an old saying that if you buy a good tool, you will only cry once. If you buy a cheap tool, you will cry every time you use it. Whatever table saw you buy, get the absolute best you can. I've had a cheap one and I've had a good one and I can tell you that I am much more motivated when I'm not fighting the tool to get the results I want. This is especially true if you are just starting out.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I may actually have to go with something less expensive to start, like the Rigid R4512. Any suggestions on what the next step up from that would be?

That is a very difficult question. You might start by setting a list of what your saw must have and then be sure to look at used saws as well as new. If I decided that I would not buy a sawstop, I would add a few things to the list that my new saw must have.



The first thing on my list is a riven knife that is easy to use that is raised and lowered with the saw, and easily removed. I know far more people with kick-back injuries than cuts from touching a running saw blade (but I know a few of those as well). On my last saw I used the MJ Splitter, which helped, but it is better to ahve the riven knife.
Ability to mount a router in the table saw, because I don't have room for a router table. I expect that you can swing this with any decent table saw.
Nice flat metal top. I prefer metal because I use magnetic jigs for a featherboard and similar. My router attachement is MDF at its core, so they don't work there, just something to think about. Note that heavier is better from a use perspective, but worse from a "move it" perspective.
A good fence is a must. If the fence is not reliable, then none of your cuts will be either.
I work out of my basement so good dust collection is a must. I also run a rather large air filter in my basement.
Ability to use a DADO set. Different saws support different sizes and widths.


I expect that most new saws will meet these critieria. An older saw, however, will likely fail at step 1. For me, this was a deal killer and was one of the reasons that I got rid of my ridgid. Note that the new owner is happily using the Ridgid to great effect, so perhaps this need not be on your list. Your ifnding that the new Ridgid requires frequent adjustments seems like that would also be a deal killer, but it had not occurred to me to put on my list. I saved for a few years before I purchased my SawStop. By that time I knew that I would use it enough to make it worth my time.

Much of what you say you desire to build, you can build with a decent miter saw and with creative use of a track saw. To save money initially, you could probably make your own guide and use a circular saw to cut things down. A track saw would be even better. All you lose is time if you do not have a place dedicated to it. One diffuclty with track saws and/or edge guides is that it takes a bit more work to cut parallel to an edge. With a table saw, if the fence is parallel to the blade then this is almost automatic.

[Roger Feeley]

I commented elsewhere in favor of a good table saw but Andrews (and others) comments are well taken that a track saw might serve you well. I don't have a track saw but I use the heck out of a couple of jigs that sort of simulate one. They are dead easy to make.

First, about portable circular saws:
1. These things are pretty dangerous but can be controlled.
a. As with all tools, take your time. Visualize your cut and how you will move.
b. Keep an ideal body position with your center of gravity as you would walk or stand. Don't contort yourself.
2. There are left and right hand models. I have both. I am right handed but you might not be. I use the saw with the motor on my left (non-dominant) to cut framing materials where I want the weight of the saw towards the non-dominant hand that's holding the material and not over the piece I am cutting off. I use a saw with the motor on the right when I am cutting plywood with a jig. Again, I don't want the weight of the motor over the cutoff piece. I hold the saw with my right hand and walk the saw from right to left across the board. The cutoff is between me and saw.

The jig:

I have an 8' version and a 4' version. Let's talk about the 4' version.
-- go buy a 2'x4' piece of masonite and a 2'x4' piece of 1/2" MDF from your favorite lumber yard.
-- On your portable circular saw, measure the distance from the plate of the saw (the part that sits on the wood) to the end of the motor. Add a couple of inches. Mine is about 6" and if I had it to do over again, I might add and inch or two. It's better to make it too big. You can always cut it down.
-- Cut a 4' slice of MDF to what you just measured.
-- Measure the distance from the edge of the plate to the blade. Mine is about 4" so let's use 6". Again, too big is just fine. Cut a 4' slice of the masonite to that 6" PLUS the width the the MDF slice.
-- This is the only tricky part. You are going to glue those two pieces together. Lay the masonite with the good side up and lay the MDF over it. Match the edged you cut in the MDF with the edge of the masonite so that the nice straight factory edge is in the middle with the extra masonite sticking out. That factory edge is going to be your saw guide. Mark a line on the masonite at the edge of the MDF.
-- Spread glue on the MDF but stay about a 1/2 to 3/4 away from the factory edge. We don't want glue to squeeze out where the mdf and masonite meet.
-- spread glue on the masonite. Again, leave that 1/2 to 3/4
-- Slap 'em together and use clamps, weights or whatever you have to press them together.

Now here is the cool part. Using the factory edge of the MDF as a guide, use your saw to cut away the excess masonite. Run your saw along that factory edge withe the motor hanging over the MDF. You will be left with exactly as much masonite as the distance between the edge of the saw plate and the near edge of the blade.

The masonite should now be a ruler that you can lay down on a sheet of plywood and know exactly where you are going to cut. The masonite will stabilize the plywood and prevent the wood from tearing out.
You won't have to scribe lines on your sheet goods. Just mark the two ends, line up the guide and go.

Unlike a track saw, you can stray away from your guide. If that happens, it's ok. You can go back and trim it again. If the guide is over the piece you want, you can't stray off the line in a direction that would ruin the piece.
-

[Ellen Benkin]

A table saw will be the heart of your workshop. Have you any experience with them? My advice is don't try to save pennies but get the best you can. I'd suggest one of the SawStop models. All of them are quality machines and you can't beat the safety features.

I also suggest that you build the thing for your daughter and get it done before she's ready for college. The other items can wait!

[Geoff Barry]

Nathan, I got started about 8 or 9 years ago - I'm a hobbyist, not a professional, and not even that advanced of a hobbyist. I mainly build tables and bookcases, as well as patio/garden furniture as needed. This coming year, I hope to build a Morris chair. With that level (or lack thereof) of skill in mind, here's my advice:

It is a truisim the cheap tools cost you more, because you will rapidly become dissatisified with them, and end up buying what you should have sarted with :0 However, no matter what anyone says, you canot know what your "style" will be until you start. Here's where craigslist comes in handy. Buy what you think you might need on craigslist - if you're wrong, you probably can sell it for about what you paid. But the experience will inform you as to what you actually want.

There are folks who don't use tablesaws. Tracksaws and bandsaws work just fine as a table saw substitue for some, especially if one is severely space-limited. However, most folks seem to find tablesaws the most convenient centerpiece for their woodworking. There are folks who get by fine using only hand tools. Once again, though, most folks find power tools pretty convenient. I'd start off sticking to the mainstream until you have a sense as to how you work, and where your preferences and interests lie.

There's nothing wrong with starting with a craigslist/garage sale saw. I began with a refurb'd Skill benchtop saw. It sucked, but allowed me to realize I liked making things, so I gave it away and upgraded to a Ryobi BT3100 (an odd-ball saw, but I made some decent furniture with it. It was too light for cutting large sheets of plywood, though.) and then a craftsman contractor saw that cost me $100 at a garage sale. I used that to make even more decent furniture. Along the way I learned that one should always buy a good blade (it's what actually does the cutting, after all), and I bought a better fence. About a year ago, I got a used Sears 22124 for about $150 more than I sold the craftsman and its grizzly fence. It's a great saw, but the $100 contractor saw was enough saw for me to learn the in and outs of how I used the saw, and what I wanted in its replacement. Likewise, I got a rikon 14" bandsaw on craigslist. Now, after a couple of years, I know what I'd look for in my next bandsaw (I also know that I wouldn't want to use a bandsaw instead of a table saw). Going on craigslist really lowers the cost of entry into woodworking.


Based on what you want to build, as someone noted above, you really need a circular saw, a miter saw, and maybe a table saw. Routers will eventually come in handy. I'd get an inexpensive corded circular saw new (but buy a good blade for it), and pick up a 10" non-sliding miter saw and contractor saw on craigslist. Get a cordless drill, too. Buy your wood S4S at one of the borgs. That should get you started on your projects wih a minimal investment. Start watching the New Yankee Workshop. By the time you finish the pergola, you'll have a better idea of where to go from there.

One last thing - you probbaly won't start off worried about dust collection, so spring ($30) for a half-mask respirator - disposable paper masks are near-worthless. Wear eye protection, and don't wear gloves, dangling stuff, etc.

[Sam Murdoch]

Since you describe yourself as a perfectionist with little woodworking experience I think (if you haven't already) that you would be best served by first taking a basic woodworking class which would include safety considerations. You would get some hands on experience with at least one saw and probably others. That will give you a big heads up as to what you will need to consider before your purchase any shop machinery. I don't think you will be happy with most saws offered at the box stores. The SawStop - even their basic contractors saw - is way ahead of most of its cousins with the added safety feature which a casual table saw user could find to be indispensable. You will pay for that engineering but the perfectionist in you won't regret it.

Having said that - I agree with those who have suggested that a good compound miter saw will be more useful. The Makita is very good. The Festool Kapex is stupid expensive but exceptionally good. With a good chop saw and a track saw and hand selecting premilled lumber from your local lumber yard you could do all on your list. I would miss my table saw if I didn't have it - but I could do without it - and I build cabinetry and furniture for a living.

[michael osadchuk]

Since you describe yourself as a perfectionist with little woodworking experience I think (if you haven't already) that you would be best served by first taking a basic woodworking class which would include safety considerations. You would get some hands on experience with at least one saw and probably others. That will give you a big heads up as to what you will need to consider before your purchase any shop machinery. I don't think you will be happy with most saws offered at the box stores. The SawStop - even their basic contractors saw - is way ahead of most of its cousins with the added safety feature which a casual table saw user could find to be indispensable. You will pay for that engineering but the perfectionist in you won't regret it.

Having said that - I agree with those who have suggested that a good compound miter saw will be more useful. The Makita is very good. The Festool Kapex is stupid expensive but exceptionally good. With a good chop saw and a track saw and hand selecting premilled lumber from your local lumber yard you could do all on your list. I would miss my table saw if I didn't have it - but I could do without it - and I build cabinetry and furniture for a living.

I agree with Sam and others who have commented that until you get to the last two (or perhaps three) items on you to do list, a tablesaw is hardly needed.

A sliding 10" miter saw is very useful .... and the older Makita 10" scms - which I have - is highly regarded, one of the lightest models in its niche and probably available new for less than $400 and half that used.

Panel handsaw for cutting thru thick jungle gym supports. Enjoy other handtools such as handplanes, etc.

Research building a workshop and tablesaws.... there is a lot involved including dust collection, wiring, lighting,etc.

Woodworking is one of those activities where there is almost always more than one way to cut wood and other processes.

If I was starting out again I would get Sawstop because of its safety feature that eliminates finger amputation (plus they are good saws in other respects).

good luck

michael

[Peter Hawser]

Hi Nathan, as someone who uses his shop for both furniture making and keeping up the old house, I'm sorry, but your list screams out for one tool and while it is a saw, it isn't a table saw. I'm talking about a compound sliding miter saw. Probably a 10" like a Makita. It is an absolutely indispensable tool for cross cutting long pieces to a precise length - so many of your projects require this - and that is not the job of a table saw. While you may indeed want and need a table saw, you need a miter saw too. My first power tool was a miter saw and I use it all the time for so many things. It is perhaps my most used power tool for both home repair/maintenance/remodeling/projects as well as in furniture making (breaking down stock, cuts to length).

Hey, I swear I just looked up and saw Michael's advice for a Makita 10" too!

Sadly most miter saws are lousy at dust collection. The only good ones are the 7 1/2" Makita (limited to 2" thick cuts but a great saw), new Bosch with the funky arm (expensive at 800ish), Milwaukee 12" (a beast) or the Festool Kapex (the $1500 German miter saw!!!). All others may cut well (or not), but are absolutely awful if not entirely useless in dust collection.

[Sam Murdoch]

... The only good ones are the 7 1/2" Makita (limited to 2" thick cuts but a great saw), new Bosch with the funky arm (expensive at 800ish), Milwaukee 12" (a beast) or the Festool Kapex (the $1500 German miter saw!!!). All others may cut well (or not), but are absolutely awful if not entirely useless in dust collection.

I have the 7-1/2" Makita and it is indispensable as my every day chop saw. However I have used the 10" Makita and it is every bit as good - just heavier. I also own a 14" Hitahi so I have some options for cutting 4xs and big crown. If I could own only one it would be the 10" Makita or the Kapex.