Sommerfeld's Easy Bore Hing Boring Jig

[Brent Romero]

Does anyone know if there is another manufacturer that sells something similar to Sommerfeld's Easy Bore Hing Boring Jig?

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Sommerfelds-Hinge-Boring-Jig/productinfo/SHB/

[Jesse Tutterrow]

Try searching e-bay for "Blum Ecodrill Hinge Jig ". Or just do a google search for "Blum Hinge Machine"

[Michael Heffernan]

There are a lot of commercial jigs out there. A bit pricey, unless you are doing a lot of cup hinges.
I bore the 35mm cup hole on the drill press, then use this jig from Woorworker's Supply to drill the screw or plug holes.
http://www.pro.woodworker.com/adjustable-euro-eze-jig-mssu-905-599.asp?search=hinge%20boring%20jig&searchmode=2

A good 35 mm forstener bit is necessary for clean cup holes.

Here are a few all in one boring jigs for hand drills. I prefer the stability and power of doing them on the drill press.



http://www.amazon.com/CMT-CMT333-03-Universal-Boring-System/dp/B0017Q1WYO (http://www.amazon.com/CMT-CMT333-03-Universal-Boring-System/dp/B0017Q1WYO)

http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Ecodrill-Hinge-With-Driver/dp/B0006HFCNM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1342324353&sr=1-3&keywords=hinge+boring+jig (http://www.amazon.com/Blum-Ecodrill-Hinge-With-Driver/dp/B0006HFCNM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1342324353&sr=1-3&keywords=hinge+boring+jig)

http://www.amazon.com/35-MM-Hinge-Drilling-Jig/dp/B001DT52VY/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1342324353&sr=1-5&keywords=hinge+boring+jig

http://www.pro.woodworker.com/fullpres.asp?PARTNUM=135-704&LARGEVIEW=ON

[frank shic]

this is the one i use:

http://www.pro.woodworker.com/euroeze-drill-head-blumsalice-mssu-947-828.asp?search=hinge%20boring&searchmode=2

[scott vroom]

I purchased the Hettich euro boring jig through Rockler. It's a bit pricey ($246)....German import I think. It has the look and feel of quality. It adjusts based on the space between the 35mm cup hole and the edge of the door.....same measurement that Blum specs for their hinges. It gives perfect, repeatable borings and is a snap to set up. It comes configured for 7/64 pilot hole drilling but can also be set up for 8mm dowel drilling for press-in style.

One poster suggested the Blum Ecodrill....just be aware that this jig drills ONLY 8mm holes in addition to the 35mm cup holes....this is useful only if you are planning to use press-in hinges with the 8mm dowels. It is not adaptable to screw pilot hole drilling, nor does it include the tooling for pressing the dowels into the holes.

Blum makes a benchtop boring and press-in machine but unless you're a high volume cabinet shop it's likely WAY too expensive.

I looked at the Sommerfeld jig but it looks cheap (plastic?) just like some of the other jigs I've purchased from him.






http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10871&site=ROCKLER

[Mike Goetzke]

Does anyone know if there is another manufacturer that sells something similar to Sommerfeld's Easy Bore Hing Boring Jig?

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Sommerfelds-Hinge-Boring-Jig/productinfo/SHB/


Don't know your background, but, I'm a hobbyist that resently built my own kitchen cabinets. I had 40 plus doors that I used Euro hinges on. I asked a question about the jigs on this forum and many pros said just to use a fence and stops on a drill press - and they were right. I made a gauge block to set up my drill press (since I couldn't do all the doors at one time). The drill press was not only accurate but also made quick work of boring the holes.

Mike

[Jamie Buxton]

$250 for a cup-hinge jig?! Here's what I've been using for at least fifteen years. It is a shop-built jig that cost about three bucks and an hour to make. It uses a plunge router and a template guide to cut the 35 mm hole.

236978236979

The left pic is the top view. You can see the hole for the temple guide to cut the 35 mm hole, and the holes for pilot drill for the screws. The right pic is the bottom view. You can see the cleat that catches the door edge. Loosening the knobs lets the cleat slide back and forth for different bore distances. If you look closely you can see lines on 1 mm centers to set the cleat (double click on the pic to see a full-size view). You can also see inside the hole a little black tick mark. That's on the centerline of the 35 mm hole. I draw a line on the back of the door where the hinge is suppose to go. The line is at right angle to the door edge. The tick mark, which is visible from the top, lines up with the line on the door. A couple of C-clamps hold the jig in place while I router.

I used to try to use a drill press, but found that wrestling with a large door on the table was a problem. I really wanted two or three hands to control the door, and another one to pull the quill down. Bringing the router to the door is much more controllable.

[Mike Heidrick]

I own the Sommerfield. Its not plastic. It works perfect with Blum hinges and is tons better than the Jig it Rockler I had before..

[Charles Lent]

I too own the Sommerfeld jig. It works very well and is easy to set up. The only adjustments are for the door overlay and they are stepped cams to make it easy to set them correctly. A drill press is not required, so it can be used in the shop or out on the job. Any good 1/2" drill can be used with it. You set the overlay, clamp it in the right position on the door, and then engage and drill the holes with the jig's integral drill bits using a hex nut driver bit in the drill. Un-clamp the jig and install the hinge, it's that easy. The only mistake that you can make with it is to position it on the door incorrectly. It will easily pay for itself if you have 30 or more hinges to install.

Charley

[Ryan Brucks]

I made a simple jig just like Jamie. For the hinge cups I used fostner bits instead of a router though. For the depth stop I used 2x2's cut to the appropriate length with a hole for the fostner bit shaft. Simple as pie.

A commercial jig only makes sense to me if you are going to be mounting a lot of different hinges. If you are just a hobbyist like me using the same hinges on everything, making your own jig is a no brainer. It takes about as much time to make as it does to use it twice.

When I bought my euro hinges from Hafale, I found some in their clearance section for 1 penny per hinge (and mounting plates another penny). So I bought like 200 of each. These will last me forever. not bad for nice salice hinges :)

[frank shic]

I made a simple jig just like Jamie. For the hinge cups I used fostner bits instead of a router though. For the depth stop I used 2x2's cut to the appropriate length with a hole for the fostner bit shaft. Simple as pie.

A commercial jig only makes sense to me if you are going to be mounting a lot of different hinges. If you are just a hobbyist like me using the same hinges on everything, making your own jig is a no brainer. It takes about as much time to make as it does to use it twice.

When I bought my euro hinges from Hafale, I found some in their clearance section for 1 penny per hinge (and mounting plates another penny). So I bought like 200 of each. These will last me forever. not bad for nice salice hinges :)

nice hardware gloat lol

[Brent Romero]

Thanks guys. Sounds like I will probably create a jig. Are the dimensions fairly standard (i.e. distance of the 35mm hole from the edge of the door)? Before I get to that point I need to establish the capability to make my raised panel door and drawer fronts. I am looking at the Bosch router table. I ordered the RA1165 Bosch router mount today and I am looking at a matched set of Sommerfeld raised panel bits. I like the rubber grommet idea...do any other manufacturers use the rubber grommet?

[Jamie Buxton]

Thanks guys. Sounds like I will probably create a jig. Are the dimensions fairly standard (i.e. distance of the 35mm hole from the edge of the door)?

The distance from the edge of the door to the 35 mm hole depends on what you're doing. Overlay doors are different from inset doors, and full-overlays can be different from half-overlays. There's also some latitude that depends on the height of the mounting plate. Here's one way to learn all the details... Go to http://www.blum.com/us/en/01/30/10/20/index.php and click on the link that says "A complete program for all applications". It is a long pdf. You probably only need the first 20 pages or so.