I got brave

[Scott Lux]

I'd been fighting this bowl off and on for a couple weeks. It cracked, came off the lathe, cracked some more, and wouldn't take finish the way I wanted. So I thought I'd use it as practice. I took it as deep as I thought I dared (based on my fingers guestimating the depth). Then I cut it in half.

I really thought I was maxing out the depth. I could/should have gone another 1/4" I rather liked the curve I had on the outside, but there's a bit of a flat in the middle.

This took a lot of nerve to cut this one, but I"m glad I did. I learned ore in this failure than in a success.

Comments and critiques welcome.

[Eric Holmquist]

I've done the same a few times, it is a good learning experience!

[Mike Cruz]

There is a simple tool that you can make with a piece of wood, say 3/4"x 1"x 12" long, and a 1/4" hole in the middle of the 1" wide face. Stick a 1 foot long 1/4" dowel into the hole. Place the jig along the rim of the bowl, pushing the dowel to the bottom of the bowl. Then, holding the dowel in place on the jig, remove it from the bowl, and place it on top of the bowl (with the long jig across the rim, but the dowel on the outside of the bowl). This will transfer the "bottom" of the inside of your bowl to the outside so you can see how deep your cut is. If you need me to, I can take a pic of the one I made....

Glad you learned!

[John M. Smith]

I use something like what Mike described. The only addition I made was a small machine screw to tighten the dowel in place. I could just see myself letting the dowel slip a little........oops!!

[Thomas Canfield]

One tip I picked up at SWAT a couple of years ago was to add a string at the end of the depth stick. When you take the stick outside, the string helps you see the depth better. I used a piece of red nylon string and it does help, especially as the diameter gets bigger. You can also use a 12" top piece on larger bowls by sighting across the edge when you insert the depth stick.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use the same thing Mike does except I glued a nut in the side for a bolt to hold the steel rod I slid in and out. Put the piece of wood which is 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 12 against the rim. Push the rod in, tighten the bolt. That way there is no slippage.

[Noah Barfield]

There is a simple tool that you can make with a piece of wood, say 3/4"x 1"x 12" long, and a 1/4" hole in the middle of the 1" wide face. Stick a 1 foot long 1/4" dowel into the hole. Place the jig along the rim of the bowl, pushing the dowel to the bottom of the bowl. Then, holding the dowel in place on the jig, remove it from the bowl, and place it on top of the bowl (with the long jig across the rim, but the dowel on the outside of the bowl). This will transfer the "bottom" of the inside of your bowl to the outside so you can see how deep your cut is. If you need me to, I can take a pic of the one I made....

Glad you learned!

I'd love a pic!

Noah

[Mike Cruz]

Yeah, we all have variations of the same contraption. I like the ideas that others have to hold the rod from slipping. I just kinda pinch it so it doesn't move, but suppose it still "can", so a set screw or whatever is a good idea. BTW, I'm not claiming to have invented this jig. I think I got the idea from Bill Grumbine. My guess is that he didn't invent it either...just giving credit where due...

Noah, I'll try to take a pic later today.

[Mike Cruz]

Here you go, Noah. I tried to capture the jig itself, how to use it inside the bowl, and how to then check your depth outside the bowl. The challenge was doing it with one hand on the jig, and one hand on the camera...with the bowl off the lathe. :o