Quick Chainsaw Recommendation

[Tim Boger]

Yesterday I decided that my Poulan Pro is just to finicky to rely on, dang thing started and ran reasonably well last weekend but every time I had to restart it after it was warmed up was nearly impossible. I've kept stabil in the fuel and made sure the fuel wasen't old and degraded.

So .... I want a new Stihi and would like some recommendations. The fellow at our local dealer suggested the
MS250 with easy start or the MS290.

Yesterday a buddy and I took down 2 trees on my property that we're 16-18 inch in diameter (at least) and then cut it all into smaller enough pieces to handle. His 15 year old Husky worked great all day, my poulan would not restart after the first 1/2 hour so I had to park it.

I also do woodturning so there will be perhaps a dozen times a year that's I'll be working on bowl blanks .... I'm sure it'll be getting a fair amount of use.

Thanks,
Tim

[John Lanciani]

Even if it wasn't on your list I'd recommend the 290. It's all the saw you'll ever need for non-commercial use.

[Tim Boger]

Even if it wasn't on your list I'd recommend the 290. It's all the saw you'll ever need for non-commercial use.

Thanks John, appreciate your feedback.
Tim

[John Kaye]

i bought a husqy 435 last year. bad choice for me. it seems some work well and some don't - mostly starting issues. another thing i don't like is that the chain is one of the newer ones that are thin. they don't last long. i haven't tried third party yet.

A lot of the "consumer" grade saws have a single position choke. easy to flood in warmer weather. also if the hi and lo settings are not right on, then hard to start. Interestingly, husqy bought Poulan and my 435 looks just like the poulan pro when you open the lid.

By the way, my neighbors 435 starts every time with no problem.

I'm buying a commercial grade for only slightly more - probably an Echo with a 18" bar and a 12" bar for lighter work.

[Matt Meiser]

I've got a couple Stihl machines with Easy Start and a couple without. I'm indifferent to it. One is an MS210 which is great for as little as I use it--basically just storm cleanup or occasionally trimming a larger branch from a tree or removing an overgrown bush. I thought about a cheap saw but I'm glad I didn't. Once I found out how well good equipment runs, I ended up getting a string trimmer. And a backpack blower. And a hedge trimmer. I think I'm going to go manual for a pole pruner though.

[Tim Boger]

I've got a couple Stihl machines with Easy Start and a couple without. I'm indifferent to it. One is an MS210 which is great for as little as I use it--basically just storm cleanup or occasionally trimming a larger branch from a tree or removing an overgrown bush. I thought about a cheap saw but I'm glad I didn't. Once I found out how well good equipment runs, I ended up getting a string trimmer. And a backpack blower. And a hedge trimmer. I think I'm going to go manual for a pole pruner though.

Hey Matt .... thanks for the info, I was wondering about the "easy start" as it seems to me that if the machine is in good running condition and a quality made tool it should not be difficult to start.

The MS250 w/out easy start is $299.95 plus tax / add $50.00 for the easy start
The MS290 is $379.99 w/out the easy start plus tax

$75.00 difference between the two / the question is, I live on 3.5 acres of hardwoods and I'm also a woodturner. Is the MS250 enough of a saw or should I suck it up and get the MS290

Thanks again for your comments
Tim

[David Weaver]

A dolmar 5100 or 5105 (whatever is the current model) is also a very good saw. It is just a tick more expensive than an MS 290, but it is a lighter saw with just as much power, and it is a professional saw instead of a midrange saw (though that will probably not make a difference if it isn't used hard).

Of course, the benefit of stihl saws and true husky (swedish manufacture) saws is that there are dealer service places all over the place.

[Lee Schierer]

I used to have similar problems with my Poulan. I took it to a shop and got a new carb and it runs all day now and starts easier too. You might want to just trade out the carberator on the Poulan. They get gummed up or get bits of sawdust in them and won't run well. It would be cheaper than a new saw.

[Jim Koepke]

+1 on what Lee said about a possible carburetor problem.

My choice of a chain saw was based on what a neighbor told me, "all the lumber jacks in the area use Stihl.

I think mine is the 250 and works great for me.

jtk

[Tim Boger]

+1 on what Lee said about a possible carburetor problem.

My choice of a chain saw was based on what a neighbor told me, "all the lumber jacks in the area use Stihl.

I think mine is the 250 and works great for me.

jtk

Hi Jim,

From what I can gather the MS250 is 'bout the top of the Homeowner line, the MS290 being near the start of the Farm usage line.

Have you ever wished you had gone with a bit more power?

Thanks,
Tim

[Jay Jolliffe]

Get a husky XP model....Better than a Stihl....turns up faster & cuts quicker. People around here dislike Stihl....I have a Husky & never had a problem with it & it's almost 10yrs old....

[Don Orr]

I have a Stihl MS 290 w/ an 18" bar and like it just fine. I could easily run a 20" if I wanted to-plenty of power. I don't use it all the time and it starts well when I do. Big fan of having a dealer nearby.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I had serious service issues with a craftsman line trimmer (it was replaced three times under extended warranty because they were unable to service the unit). Lesson learned.

I have a local shop that services everything that they sell on site (Como for those that live near Columbus Ohio). I buy almost exclusively from the local shop and they sold me a nice Dolmar. My stated requirement was that it had to go through an 8" hard maple branch like it was butter. Bought it some years back and it always starts and runs great. I think that I finally decided to change the spark plug last year because I figured that it was time and I was replacing spark plugs on other items.

I have seen powered pole saws in use, and for taking down a small pine (it was a bit taller than my two story house), it was able to remove all the lower branches in almost no time at all. I do not own the powered pole saw, but I think that I can get an attachement for my Echo line trimmer, which doubles as a leaf blower, edge trimmer, and a roto tiller (although the roto tiller is almost useless.... but I cut my teeth on larger troy builts and tractor mounted John Deere tillers).

Think I am rambling now.... I consider access to a good local service shop to be a key factor in choosing what to purchase. If the local shop had Stihl in stock when I made my purchase, I might own a Stihl rather than a Dolmar. They had a run on chain saws (a hurricane had recently gone through) and they had some Dolmars that they said would were very well.... and they were correct.

[Bob Rufener]

I bought a Stihl MS250C with easy start and am extremely happy I did. I only use the saw occasionally and the easy start feature is a bonus for this OF. I have had the saw for several years with no blips in the saw. It does all I want it to do.

[Ole Anderson]

I have the 290 with an 18" bar, but frankly, I use my older 018 with a 14" bar much more often, it cuts as fast with it's narrower chain and is lighter. I bought the bigger saw to cut up a big cottonwood that came down on my property. Nice knowing I have the bigger machine when I need it. I came across a free Poulan Pro with a 14" bar. It is the one one I loan out when someone asks to borrow a chain saw. Works fine though. My son has the 250 and has uses it a lot, it is a fine saw. But none of them will stack up to a true pro saw like a 440, but then they are twice as much. If you want to talk chain saws try the chain saw forum (under the equipment section) on arboristsite dot com, 300 folks on line right now.

[Kevin Bourque]

I cut about 10 cords of firewood per year and I do it with a Stihl MS-361 with a 24" bar. It's big enough to get through the biggest hickory logs without any problem at all. I also use it for trimming branches, but if I had the $$$ I would get a lighter 16" saw.

People swear by certain brands, but I think how long a chain saw lasts has everything to do with how well you maintain it.

[Van Huskey]

People swear by certain brands, but I think how long a chain saw lasts has everything to do with how well you maintain it.

I have always heard between Stihl and Husky buy the one with the best local dealer support, seems resonable and I follow a similar strategy with some of my other hobbies often pushing me to my "second choice", even so I have always been happy buying the dealer instead of the product.

[Tim Boger]

I have always heard between Stihl and Husky buy the one with the best local dealer support, seems resonable and I follow a similar strategy with some of my other hobbies often pushing me to my "second choice", even so I have always been happy buying the dealer instead of the product.

Thanks VH ...... It's a toss up really as far as the machine goes, I'd probably give the Stihl the nod if that was all I was considering. Our local Husky dealer is the tractor supply, I have no experience with them as far as warranty or simply repairs.

The Stihi dealer is a John Deere shop, they seem like a good bet.

Now I just have to decide on either the MR250 or the MR290

Thanks for your comments,
Tim

[Larry Edgerton]

Tractor supply does not sell the good Husqvarna saws, just the home line. If you want one that runs and is a lot less work to use buy a XP model. I have three in different sizes, but if I had to have just one I would pick my 357XP as an all around saw that can still cut some serious wood when needed. The Pro models are still made in country, Sweden I think, and the stuff at Tractor supply is mostly Chinese. Parts availability long term will be better for a pro model saw as well.

Me, I just never had very good luck with Stihl, always nagging little problems. The huskys run when I pick them up, thats all I ask. I also have a husky pole saw that works well. People say they [stihl]are good, but I figure that they just never owned a real Husky........

Larry

[Charles Wiggins]

Even if it wasn't on your list I'd recommend the 290. It's all the saw you'll ever need for non-commercial use.

+1

I used to have a Poulan Pro and I had the same restart problem. I gave it up and bought an MS 290 with a 20" bar almost two years ago, and I love it. Besides what I burn, we have a firewood ministry at church, so I cut wood all winter long. I clean and sharpen after every use. The only problem it has ever given me was "operator error" - the result of letting a neighbor run it while I drove a load of wood to the house.

[Peter Kelly]

A dolmar 5100 or 5105 (whatever is the current model) is also a very good saw. It is just a tick more expensive than an MS 290, but it is a lighter saw with just as much power, and it is a professional saw instead of a midrange saw (though that will probably not make a difference if it isn't used hard).

Worth the money for the Dolmar. The 5105 is the best 50cc-sized saw out there.

[Jim Matthews]

+1 on the Dolmar. My previous saw was a Husky 455 which was just okay.
The Dolmar is a 7900,with an 18" bar - I don't get stuck (not often, anyway).

Cutting anything larger than what my 18" bar can handle indicates my need for an arborist.
I managed a 39" diameter Beech (deadfall after Hurricane Irene) which I could section, but could not move.

Big bars are an invitation to kickback and getting stuck.
I believe you should have so much horsepower as you're willing to lug around - and no more.

jim
wpt, ma

[Mark Patoka]

I bought a Stihl 290 with 16" bar after Hurricane Irene knocked down trees in my yard in 2003. I mostly use it for the occassional downed tree and to cut up turning blanks. Plenty of power as I'm usually cutting oak or beech. It sometimes takes a few pulls to start but I figure it's because I only use it a couple times per year. I can't compare it to the 250. If I had to do a lot of limb trimming, I would get something lighter/smaller but this easily meets my needs. My Stihl dealer is only 5 miles away also.

The reason I went with the 290 was because my dealer didn't have the lower model in stock that I was looking at so I went with the up-sell. I think the quick-start feature was just coming out so that wasn't an option either at that time.

[Greg Portland]

I've talked with some top chainsaw mechanics and they claim that the high ethanol gases absorb the moisture from the air extremely quickly (i.e. a few days in high humidity areas). You can either use Stabil Ethanol treatment (NOT normal Stabil!) -or- you can find a place that sells 100% gas. Note that "real gas" will cost $1-$2 more per gallon. The mechanics I've talked to recommend using the real gas if you're going to store it for any length of time. http://www.buyrealgas.com/ is a user-contributed site listing places to buy real gasoline. I've only had to do this with my small 2-cycle engines... the larger lawn engines (mower, etc.) don't have this issue.

[David Helm]

I've had my Stihl 024 for 25 years and it still runs great. I get it tuned up every couple of years, but have never had a problem with it. Don't know anything about the newer saws, or what "easystart" is.

[Larry Edgerton]

I've talked with some top chainsaw mechanics and they claim that the high ethanol gases absorb the moisture from the air extremely quickly (i.e. a few days in high humidity areas). You can either use Stabil Ethanol treatment (NOT normal Stabil!) -or- you can find a place that sells 100% gas. Note that "real gas" will cost $1-$2 more per gallon. The mechanics I've talked to recommend using the real gas if you're going to store it for any length of time. http://www.buyrealgas.com/ is a user-contributed site listing places to buy real gasoline. I've only had to do this with my small 2-cycle engines... the larger lawn engines (mower, etc.) don't have this issue.

You can buy premixed gas in a 32 oz can from Stihl or other sources that does not have ethanol in it. I use it in all my equipment except when I am going to use a lot of fuel, like cutting my winters wood. After I am done I will dump the pump gas and run some of the canned gas through it. Baileys sells it if you can't find it locally. Carbs don't need to be worked on every year, makes them run great, and is handy in the work truck.

Larry

[Brian Elfert]

I have a station down the street that sells non-oxygenated fuel at the pumps for off-road use. It is generally about 30 cents more than regular unleaded. I've started using this in all my power equipment. I had a fuel leak on a Stihl trimmer that cost $70 to fix and I think it was partially related to ethanol in the gas. Buying gas from Stihl can't be cheap with shipping to the store and all that.

[Dave Lehnert]

You can buy premixed gas in a 32 oz can from Stihl or other sources that does not have ethanol in it. I use it in all my equipment except when I am going to use a lot of fuel, like cutting my winters wood. After I am done I will dump the pump gas and run some of the canned gas through it. Baileys sells it if you can't find it locally. Carbs don't need to be worked on every year, makes them run great, and is handy in the work truck.

Larry

For my very limited use, I also use the pre-mix stuff. I get it at O'reilly Auto Parts, Sears or Lowe's. Runs around $5 qt. Sounds expensive but I was afraid to use most of a gal of gas after a month or two when I was mixing it. I run it in my string trimmer, blower and Chainsaw from a down limb after a storm. The dry season has helped a lot but I am only on my 3rd qt of pre-mix. I feel it is good insurance. But again, only because I have limited use.

I thought this was a good video on Ethanol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nX6CFlQbUXI&feature=player_embedded

[Mark Patoka]

I had a fuel leak on a Stihl trimmer that cost $70 to fix and I think it was partially related to ethanol in the gas.

I just took my Stihl trimmer in because it was leaking gas, wouldn't run properly, etc. They replaced the carb for about $70 and told me it was because of the ethanol in the gas. My dealer had a bottle of fuel additive (don't have the brand name handy at the moment) that I bought that I just use for that gas can now. He said Stabil also makes an additive, just need to make sure it's for the ethanol.

[Matt Meiser]

Stihl will let you buy the premix stuff now and qualify for the extra warranty. I picked up a case and am switching to that for everything but when I'll be using a buch, like Larry said.

Marinas should have the non-ethanol stuff too, but are a pain. The blue Stbil is also supposed to be good. Using that in my mower, but gas doesn't sit in it as long. I think I'll try to shoot for getting stuff from the marina right before the end of the season for it.

[Charles Wiggins]

I've talked with some top chainsaw mechanics and they claim that the high ethanol gases absorb the moisture from the air extremely quickly (i.e. a few days in high humidity areas). You can either use Stabil Ethanol treatment (NOT normal Stabil!) -or- you can find a place that sells 100% gas. Note that "real gas" will cost $1-$2 more per gallon. The mechanics I've talked to recommend using the real gas if you're going to store it for any length of time. http://www.buyrealgas.com/ is a user-contributed site listing places to buy real gasoline. I've only had to do this with my small 2-cycle engines... the larger lawn engines (mower, etc.) don't have this issue.

I am fortunate to have recently discovered a source for 100% gasoline about 20 mins. south of here in SC and it's usually only about 30 cents per gallon more. I'm going to start going down there to get my small engine gas and fill up the truck while I'm at it.

[Ole Anderson]

I was under the impression that all newer (less than 20 years old) large and small engines were designed for E10 as far as parts. Nothing should melt from ethanol in a newer motor, fuel line or carb. Storage is a different thing though. Long term seasonal storage, just add regular Stabil and fill your tank to 95%, that way moisture laden air won't be pumping in and out of your tank with barometric changes. Don't bother adding dry gas to your tank which already has E10, the ethanol has already soaked up any small amounts of moisture.

[Jim Becker]

I have a Stihl Farm Boss, which I think is more or less the equivalent of the 290. I run it with an 18" bar and it's been absolutely spot-on to meet my needs on this property. Occasionally, it's too short to fully cut through something that came down, but cutting with some careful planning gets around that. And that tool starts reliably no matter how long it's been put away since the last time I used it. I only wish I would have bought it FIRST instead of cheaping out and buying a "consumer" chain saw at a home center and burning it up on the first tree I cut...unfortunately a year after purchase and no longer under warranty.

[Greg Portland]

I was under the impression that all newer (less than 20 years old) large and small engines were designed for E10 as far as parts. Nothing should melt from ethanol in a newer motor, fuel line or carb. Storage is a different thing though. Long term seasonal storage, just add regular Stabil and fill your tank to 95%, that way moisture laden air won't be pumping in and out of your tank with barometric changes. Don't bother adding dry gas to your tank which already has E10, the ethanol has already soaked up any small amounts of moisture.
Ole, Husqvarna says they've only been able to handle E10 for the past 5 years (as of 2012) and even then they recommend 89 octane or higher. Some pumps in Oregon even have E15 / E85; I'm not sure about the compatibility with those gases.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I was under the impression that all newer (less than 20 years old) large and small engines were designed for E10 as far as parts. Nothing should melt from ethanol in a newer motor, fuel line or carb. Storage is a different thing though. Long term seasonal storage, just add regular Stabil and fill your tank to 95%, that way moisture laden air won't be pumping in and out of your tank with barometric changes. Don't bother adding dry gas to your tank which already has E10, the ethanol has already soaked up any small amounts of moisture.

I was told that even in an engine designed to handle the alcohol, it is expected for an engine using alcohol in the fuel to wear out before one that does not. Also, the shop that repairs my small engines (lawn mowers, chain saws, line trimmers, etc) told me to avoid alcohol in the fuel and that I should purchase high octane fuel.

Don't know if they are correct or not, but I have not been told otherwise.

[Brian Elfert]

I had a Stihl trimmer that was maybe 10 years old develop a fuel leak. I have no idea if ethanol was the reason or not, but I have switched to ethanol free gas since then.

[ray hampton]

a story about fuel that contain alcohol was in the news not too many months past, the story advise everybody to use non-alcohol gasoline in all of the small engines but I buy the same fuel for the S U V and the small engines, in order to buy non-alcohol fuel will require a 30 or more miles drive one way