Transition cut at bottom of bowl

[Jerry Lear]

I am having trouble making the tansition cut from about the last 1/3 of the bowl. I use a Thompson Bowl Gouge w/the profile that he ships w/the tool. I have releaved the heel of the bivel but I do not know whether it is a technique or is there some other tool that would allow this cut to be made easier. The bowls I generally turn are 10-12" wide and 3-5" deep.
I have read about the bottom feeder bowl gouges but I understand they are difficult to use and can only be used for that one purpose.
The problem is when making the cut, I can not negotiate the curved portion of the bowl to the center & shape it correctly. I end up using a round-nose scrapper, which gives a mediocre results.
Any suggestions on how to go about completing this cut would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Jerry

[Sean Hughto]

If you're anywhere near DC, you're welcome to come by. If you're not, I'm guessign there is some experienced turner near you that could show you some cuts.

[Jeff Myroup]

sounds like you are loosing bevel contact when making the transition. If you only have one gouge you will have to change the bevel angle. There is nothing wrong with using a sharp scraper either. You just need to refine your technique. I highly recommend joining a local AAW club. They can watch how you cut and help you make changes. I recommend all my beginners start with shallow bowls with large sweeping curves. It helps build confidence and you can see what the tool is doing.

[Prashun Patel]

I had the same issue when starting. A couple tips:
try starting with bowls that are bigger that 6" in diameter. It is a misconception that smaller means easier to turn.
also, start with shallow bowls that are almost plates. In these kinds of bowls it's easier to keep the transition smooth from rim to bottom without any abruptness in change. When starting bowls a lot of people make their firsts with walls that are harder to turn.

Once you master the shallow ones, you will develop the feel for riding the bevel throughout the cut.

Rolling the flute away as you go down can also help maintain bevel contact.

[Dan Kralemann]

Jerry,

Take a look at these threads and see if they help you http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?141238-Your-favorite-bowl-gouge-GRIND-and-why and http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?176579-Questions-for-Misters-Schlumpf-and-Keeton/page2&p=1816240 Going to a second bowl gouge to make the transition cut as explained in the attached thread did help me.

Dan

[Jon Prouty]

I would recommend watching videos by Mike Mahoney... Mike specifically addresses this technique in his bowl videos. There is a DVD featuring Mike Mahoney and Stewart Batty called "two ways to make a bowl" that is really good because it illustrates two good techniques.

I usually make bowls tht are daily open shaped so I have no problem riding the bevel through on my standard fingernail grind bowl gouge. I am practicing the technique described for the bottom third with a traditional grind lately too... It is something that takes practice.


Good luck...
Jon

[Mark Levitski]

I have read about the bottom feeder bowl gouges but I understand they are difficult to use and can only be used for that one purpose.

Not true. Once you can use a standard grind bowl gouge, whether inside, outside, or anywhere on a bowl, then you will have no problem with the transition to the bottom. They are no more difficult than other grinds if you know what is responsible for catches. Yes, a straight grind works perhaps better on the bottom portion of a bowl than a side grind, but it does not involve advanced technique. There are times when I resort to a sharp scraper to leave the best finish on the bottom on up to where I left off with the gouge, so don't give up on practicing that either.

[Thomas Canfield]

I think that it was a Bill Grumbine DVD where I saw that sometimes you need to raise your tool above center when you get to the transition section and then lower it as you approach the center to maintain the bevel. Try your gouge with the lathe not running and watch the bevel rubbing. That will work for a lot of transitionl but a sharp transition and large flat bottom will still give you a problem. I keep a bowl gouge with a flatter grind just for working on problem bottoms. Jimmy Clewes had a 1/4" at a class that had about a 80 degree angle and triple bevel to work a little 1" hemispherical recess.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I watched Mike Mahoney's DVD on bowl turning then got to see him doing a demo. He told me about what he calls a bottom feeder. He told me how to sharpen it and when I got home I did. It has a double bevel conventional ground. Works really well. Bill Grumbine as was mentioned shows how to transistion to the bottom in his DVD.