Wood- which direction has the least tendency to split?

[Jim Underwood]

I asked a question over on the design forum (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?188890-Grain-direction-on-mallet), but didn't get much response.

I'm making two piece mallets, (handle and head) and I'm wondering which way I should orient the grain to minimize the tendency to split.

This is what I posted over there:


So I'm making a two piece mallet, similar to a gavel or croquet mallet, and wonder if you think the grain direction of the handle and head should go a certain direction?

The handle is just like a hammer handle in that it's a wedged tenon. I'm thinking the split for the wedge should be perpendicular to the axis of the head to minimize any tendency to split.

But which direction should the grain in the handle and the head be to be able to take maximum punishment, if I go to really whacking on something? The grain in the head runs the direction of it's axis, so that any blows are on end grain, but should the radius of the grain run across the axis, or with the axis of the head?

Here's a picture of a few I've made:
236415

I suppose I should really re-phrase that last question: Should the radius or tangent of the head's grain run with the axis of the handle? And which way should the radius/tangent lines of the handles grain run?

[Roger Chandler]

Jim, the way you have it in your pic is what I would do........the straight grain should be in the head, and 90 degrees to the grain in the handle. Tight grain hard wood like hickory or maple make the best mallets.

[Michelle Rich]

I do believe that you have it right in your picture

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree that is the way I would turn it.

[ray hampton]

I have split a ton of wood so that it would fit into a stove and would have to rotate the wood 90 degrees so that it would split, the grain in a knot will run wild [every which way ] and you can not split a knot wood unless you want curly bits

[Jon Nuckles]

I believe most if not all woods split more readily along the radius than the tangent, so I'd orient the head so the radius is perpindicular to the handle.

[Steve Schlumpf]

I agree with Michelle - in the photo, you already have the grain orientated the way I would turn a mallet.

[Reed Gray]

Well, there are two styles of mallets. The typical carver's mallet looks similar to this...
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2007355/9650/Maple-Carvers-Mallet.aspx

Your style is more of a mini sledge hammer. The carver's style you hit along the side grain, and it is used mostly for tapping a chisel. This type will slowly wear away as the side grain delaminates, or falls apart along the grain lines.

The more typical sledge hammer style that you have is designed to pound with the end grain. The end grain is much more adept at taking the blunt forces of hammering than the side grain. How ever, if you just hit on the very outside edge of the head, you could chip off a bit.

I guess it is like cutting boards. The best ones are all end grain, but a lot of us use flat grain ones.

robo hippy

[Harry Robinette]

Jim
I made a bunch awhile back and talked to a couple old farmers both in there mid 90s they said to split the wood down to your rough size(I think it's called riving) and then finish turning the head. This well make it stronger and less likely to split when you hit them very hard. Mine are still working as far as I know.
As Always just a through.

[Jim Underwood]

Thanks for all the responses. I knew I could count on you turners...

The grain direction is indeed running the length of the head rather than across it. So in use, the blows are against the endgrain as Reed explains so well.

However, my question was a little confusing, so here's a picture to clarify.

236465
The above representation is of a billet of wood looking down on the endgrain. Which direction is the wood more likely to split? In the radial, or in the tangential direction?

I ask this because I'm wondering which direction to drill the hole for the handle- in the tangential or radial direction. Also, I'm wondering which direction I should cut the split for the wedge in the end of the handle's tenon.

(It also occurs to me that it might not make any difference, but now that the question is asked....)

[Jim Underwood]

And the reason I say it might not make much difference, is that the slope of grain (as defined by this link) (http://www.woodbat.org/) makes more difference for breaking maple bats than does what direction the ball is hit - face or side....

[Pat Scott]

A wedge is always inserted 90 degrees to the growth rings. If you cut the slot for the wedge in the same direction that the growth rings are, the wedge will have a tendency to split the wood.

[Sean Hughto]

My experience is that the tangential is more delicate - that is, imagine excavating the end grain in your pictuire for blind DTs - you could relatively safely place a chisel on your radial line and tap to follow your pencil or scribe line, but if you did the same onthe tangential line, you would ruin serious risk of splitting the stock. The handle hole should follow the radial line.