Wood taps, for gouge depth block

[Jon Murphy]

I'm resetting up my grinder and now using an Ellsworth jig for some of my bowl gouges, and the Wolverine VariGrind for others. I was about to make fixed blocks for setting the projection depths of my various grinds, but then had an idea. At first I was going to make specific depths by drilling a 3/4" through hole and then CA gluing a length of brass rod into the back of the hole to the depths.

Side comment, it is nice to have a metal "stop" at the bottom of the hole - a wooden "stop" chips over time. Brass would be better than steel as it won't "bruise" the gouge tip.

Then it occurred to me that one could make a variable depth "stop" by threading the hole in the wood and using threaded metal for the stop. My problem is where to get a 3/4" tap with a thread pitch that would match standard metal threads. I could use my Beale 1" x 8 tap, that I use for glue and jam blocks - but my largest gouge is 5/8" so 3/4" would be better.

Any thoughts?

Best, Jon

[Noah Barfield]

Jon,

I had a wooden stop, but it was too soft and I was getting an inconsistent grind each time. Since switching to a ultra high density polyethylene stop, I've been much more consistent. UHDP machines really well and might be worth some consideration.

Noah

[Steve Schlumpf]

My depth gauge is as simple as it gets. I use a piece of 2x4 that I drilled 3 different holes in for use with different bowl gouges. I have been using that same block for close to 8 years and still have no need to update it.

[Jeff Myroup]

I just use a simple block drilled to depth. Like Steve, I have been using it for years with no problem. I do have a couple of gouges that are to big for the hole, so I just use a simple depth gauge to set the distance. Nice and simple. :)

[Prashun Patel]

I don't use a drilled hole, but rather a sheet of plywood with pieces screwed in as stops at various depths. The jig is then screwed to the edge of the bench. It works fine and unlike a drilled hole, you can see the state of the bottom of the depth stop, and can make sure yr properly registered.

Even the soft plywood I've been using has held up perfectly fine. Zero chipping.

[Greg Just]

I have the same setup as Steve - simple and works everytime.

[Reed Gray]

Threaded sounds like too much work. I have heard of using a nickle that was epoxied in place at the bottom of the hole. When I used gouge jigs, I used a small metal L bracket screwed in place on my grinder bench. Any bruising was minimal enough that it made no difference with even the lightest touch on the grinder wheel. If you used a mallet to set the depth, then you may get a little bruising, but the steel is pretty hard. A light touch is all that is needed.

robo hippy

[Ed Morgano]

Use a regular metal tap....3/4 x 10 would work fine. It will probably leave the hole tight for the threads, but that should be a good thing.

[Bob Hamilton]

I just scribed a line on the pocket of the Wolverine "V" arm at 1 3/4" from the back. I put the gouge in the Varigrind, butt the front of the Varigrind against the back of the pocket, slide the gouge in or out until the end is even with the scribed line, then tighten the clamp. I suppose there might be small variations from one time to the next due to parallax, but not enough to bother me.

Bob

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

I like having metal at the bottom of my depth hole also. I glued in a nickle. It only cost me 5 cents.
faust

[Thomas Canfield]

I screwed a piece of oak so that the end (end grain is harder that the side grain) is the 1-3/4" from edge. That is what I use and do find that I tend to cut the wood some. One of the turning pros (talks with a funny accent and initials JC) told us that he uses the side of the holder as a depth gage even though it is 2", but that it is consistent no matter where he is. I do think that the main thing is to be consistent and know your own edge and do not want ot take any sides.

[Harry Robinette]

I been doing like Bob Hamilton for 12 years but I just use the length of the V bucket. It's worked so far so I guess it works ok.

[Jon Murphy]

Thanks for all the fine replies gents, sorry to be so slow getting back (we had a massive family visit in our 2 bedroom condo - including six kids ranging from 6 to 16 - I finally have my computer back).

I confess to not being the greatest at drilling an exact depth hole, so the "through" hole and a plug was important to me. My solution, I got a 3/4" x 3" carriage bolt (shorter would have been better, but 3" was the shortest Home Depot had). I drilled an 11/64" hole in a scrap piece of 2 x 4 (nothing sacred about 11/64th, just that it was the next smaller drill I had than 3/4"). Some judicious hammering to start the bolt into the hole, then a large monkey wrench, and I was able to self thread the bolt into the pine 2 x 4 and get my depth exact. I screwed the block under my grinder mounting board.

I agree with those who say perfection isn't needed as to depth, as long as it is consistent, but I like to start with the "optimum" then work from there. I can adjust this block, but probably won't.

Best, Jon

[Jon Murphy]

Oops, think I should have "replied" to myself to put my closing post at the proper level, it is at the end of the last "chain" of replies. This is a try to see how the system works.

Best, Jon