Old Iron Painting

[John Cooper2]

Hello Creekers,

Just bought a second Delta Unisaw vintage 1947, it's real close to the vintage of my other one.

Why did I buy it, ????? Doesn't everyone need two Unisaws?

My first one I replaced the bearings and the drive belts with the link belts and it works perfect. It has a modern 1.5hp motor and I found a 3hp to replace it but never did.

The sheet metal on the second one is much better than my original one so I am thinking of taking it completely apart, replacing the arbor bearings, painting it, replacing the 1.5 hp IR motor with the 3hp one that I purchased for the first saw. Would like to clean it up and repaint it. That is my weak area, I can get rid of the slight rust here and there, but the paint work I am a little lost. Don't think a brush would do it justice so then we move onto spraying. I have a HF spray gun that is still wrapped up, but that is the end of my know how.

Looking for words of wisdom,

[Jamie Schmitz]

I would consider going to an automotive store or descent hardware store and checking out their paint spray cans. Spraying from the can will give you good results w/o getting into a lot of set up. If you go this route buy one of these.
235869

[Carroll Courtney]

John I have no wisdom but I'm willing to share my mistakes that I made in the past.I have done 3 unisaws and 1 PM66 and several other old machines from a 47 uni to a 92 uni.On most of my machines I use SW oil base paint which has to be thin down to spray w/smaller air compressors and spray guns that don't come with different size tips.The oil base I get for around 30 bucks a gal which is in my budget.Problem is its very time consuming due to the drying time about a 24hr period on warm/hot days.The last saw that I did which was for resale I pulled out all the stops and use Duplicolor paint from auto supply stores(27 per qt).Which allow me to spray several primer coats in one day w/no sanding since its a lacquer paint,fast drying and the following coat melts into the previous coat.So I purchase 1qt of primer,1qt of color,1qt of clear and I have to say that I loved it even though it cost more.So,if your HF gun can handle lacquer and the paint gun is already setup for a #4 fluid tip then invest in the better paint,saves alot of time.Only problem the saw and all parts has to be strip down to bear metal(no lacquer over oil,oil over lacquer is OK)Post pics of your saw, here is my last saw using lacquer----Carroll

[Rick Fisher]

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/SCM%20Bandsaw/P1010208.jpg

I had these doors sprayed by a friend who is an auto painter.. The SCMi is stickers from a sign shop... I think it cost $25.00 ..

[Cary Falk]

I have used Rustoleum rattle cans for all my restores and I am happy with them. Delta Grey is Rustoleum's Dark Machinery Grey. You might want to check but I don't think your 3hp motor won't fit into the oval opening of the '47.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q297/caryincamas/DSC_0321a-1.jpg

[Rick Fisher]

Just remembered..

Apparently you can get tinted industrial enamel in a spray bomb now .. They are able to tint spray bombs at the places that sell automotive paint..

I am going to eventually restore an old Delta Scroll saw.. figure on doing it that way ..

[Ed Edwards]

Carroll,
Do you have the formula for the SWP ?
I need to finish 2 DJ20s and a Delta 12" RAS... I'd really would like to get the proper match. The 24 hour drying time doesn't bother me. And my Apollo 1035 should be able to lay on the finish, thinned of course

Thanks, Ed

[John Cooper2]

Cary, I expect that is why the other one was hacked a bit. also neither of my saws have a motor cover, is that one custom made or stock. I have heard of a cast iron cover, but never have seen one.

Will look into the spray can option, that I can handle.

The SCMI panels look outstanding.

[John Cooper2]

Carrol, is that a cast iron motor cover on the middle uni?

[Carl Carew]

By SW I assume you are reffering to Sherman Williams. I paint new construction kitchen cabinets part time and get my materials from them. My dealer in Toms River can custom make any color just bring him a small sample piece with the color you want to paint on it and he scans it and produces a great match. hopefully the dealer in your area has that equipment. In my area (Toms River, NJ there are a lot of environmental restrictions. I prefer the SW oil paint but my dealer can't sell anything larger that quarts in oil base. I have used there premium water based enamel but definately prefer the oil. I have also painted with Laquer as mentioned in an earlier post. The quick drying time is a big plus but the fumes are wild. I wear a simple canister resperator when spraying oil base with an HVLP setup but will only spray lacquer outdoors.

[Keith Hankins]

go over to the old woodworking tools forum they are the experts.

http://www.owwm.org/index.php?sid=79540d7da69c5d49e4af08f951bb97a2

[Cary Falk]

Cary, I expect that is why the other one was hacked a bit. also neither of my saws have a motor cover, is that one custom made or stock. I have heard of a cast iron cover, but never have seen one.

Will look into the spray can option, that I can handle.

The SCMI panels look outstanding.

That was a factory cover. That is a 1970 Uni. The switch from the cast iron "goose egg" covers to the square metal covers was a couple of years before mine. There is a guy on e-bay that sells fiberglass reproduction of the goose eggs if you want one for a lot cheaper than the rare cast iron ones. It probably won't fit over the larger motor though.
Cary

[Myk Rian]

Take it to an auto body shop for painting.

[Steven Hsieh]

Wouldn't it cost cheaper and better in long run if its powder coated?

[John Cooper2]

I have wondered about powder coating, have never had anything done. Will have to look into that tough.

thanks for another idea.

[Carroll Courtney]

Ed this is the paint formula that I had made at SW's but its more like the blue/gray color and not in the pics above which is Duplicolor's Mineral Gray.Pics here is the color of SW paint,which I like alot but more along the lines of Sears paint color and John that is a cast iron motor cover which I regret selling and the pics in previous post is before/after and not two different unisaws.In the last pic is a fiberglass motor cover using the SW's paint----Carroll

[Mac McQuinn]

I would have this powder coated. I took a set of antique Wrought Iron Woodard patio furniture to a place nearby and it was, stripped, prepped and powder coated in the perfect shade, cost was very reasonable I felt. Color chart for powder coating is very expansive these days. For the mess of masking, spraying, toxic fumes and clean up, I didn't have to think twice about powder coating. Much more durable too. Furniture still looks like the day it was done.....7 years ago.

Good luck,
Mac

[Steven Hsieh]

I found some near your location

http://www.performancepowdercoatingandsandblasting.com/home

http://www.powdercraftofrocklin.com/contact.htm

[Myk Rian]

Powder coating a vintage machine is BLASPHEMY, IMHO.

[keith micinski]

Powder coating is ridiculous cheap more durable and I am not sure how anyone could look at a tool and tell if it was powder coated or painted unless you told them.

[Carroll Courtney]

At work the shop teacher had a metal bench done that was 3'6" and cost 250 w/school district discount.I guess everyone dif. of cheap is different.I sure wish I could afford it.----Carroll

[keith micinski]

Yes he got robbed. Powder coating is anywhere from 50-60 percent less then spraying paint everywhere I have ever looked and takes very little skill to do. I guess I forgot to add that it is more expensive then spraying it with a rattle can but if your doing a serious restoration i don't think you would be going to the rattle can for paint anyway.

[Matt Meiser]

Powder coating will require taking everything to bare metal. Not a problem, just an FYI.

I use oil based ename like Rust O Leum professional and add hardener sold at Tractor Supply. Its pretty thick so you need a large needle set for good results.

[John Cooper2]

Thanks for the links, will check into it anyway.

Know it makes a nice durable cover

Thanks

[Mac McQuinn]

My wrought iron patio furniture was stripped and powder coated for $175.00 which was for a 52" round table and (4) chairs. This was in a custom color(More $) and had a significant amount of ornate artwork, I/E. Flowers, leaves, etc. Took slightly less than (3) days start to finish and looks like it was enameled. I'm picky and feel the work was well worth the $.
Mac



Yes he got robbed. Powder coating is anywhere from 50-60 percent less then spraying paint everywhere I have ever looked and takes very little skill to do. I guess I forgot to add that it is more expensive then spraying it with a rattle can but if your doing a serious restoration i don't think you would be going to the rattle can for paint anyway.

[keith micinski]

I also forgot to add powder coating excels in areas just like the one described above. Its much easier to powder coat little nooks and crannies and details without having runs and overspray like conventional paint.

[Ed Edwards]

Carroll,

Thank for the formula

Ed

[John Cooper2]

Just got my first reply to an online quote for the cabinet, door and base. $200.00 sandblasted and powder coated in the color of my choice.

Sounds tempting.