Orange Flavored Cigar

[James Combs]

This is actually prototype resin coloring for an Alan Trout style Wood/Resin vase but it makes a decent looking pen.:D

Gold and Satin Gold Cigar style pen dressed in ant sculpted Walnut(waste-wood) and orange pearlescent Alumilite resin. Finished with 10 coats of CA and MM to 12000 with a final coat of Renwax.
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I wanted to see how orange and walnut go together. If you remember Ant Pool (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?183239-No-51-The-Ant-Pool&highlight=), I am int the process of doing another and I was thinking of using orange instead of blue.
235787 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?183239-No-51-The-Ant-Pool&highlight=)

This is the rough turning. If you can mentally close in the top of the form with a colorful resin and put some kind of opening there you have an idea as to where I am heading.
235788

Feel free to comment on the color combo as a possibility for the vase as well as reviewing the pen.

[Jim Burr]

RED!!! That one needs dark red JD...maybe some micro pearl with interference red for a swirl...just MHO...but oh yeah...cast it up!!
And the pen is sweet too!!

[Jamie Donaldson]

Any color other than Tennessee orange JD! I'm partial to greens, but of course anything blue in KY is just fine!:D

[Gary Max]

Very cool James------looks like you could have some real fun with that.

[Jerry Marcantel]

JD, as far as color, I'm no help because of being color blind, but I see what you're going to do. No matter what you choose, it's gonna look good.. Got a couple of questions, though.
1: I see that you have your blank already roughed out, and was wondering if you're going to turn a plug to reduce the volume of resin needed..
2: If you are going to turn a plug, do you have any chunks of that same wood? If you do, why not glue some chunks onto the plug above the rim and have it continue up to form wood with a lot of voids with resin in the voids... If you don't understand my poorly worded question, (even I'm having a problem) I could post a picture of one of my over 50 roughs that I'm one day going to finish......
3 & 4: Are you using Alumilite resin? If so, which one?......... Jerry (in Tucson)

[James Combs]

RED!!! That one needs dark red JD...maybe some micro pearl with interference red for a swirl...just MHO...but oh yeah...cast it up!!
And the pen is sweet too!!
Thanks Jim, red is definitely in the running. I will be sampling it and a piece of scrap wood tomorrow, however blue is hard to beat and is what I had originally planned but thought I would sample some other colors in the form of pen blanks.


Any color other than Tennessee orange JD! I'm partial to greens, but of course anything blue in KY is just fine!:D
Got Cats;). Yeah Jamie see my comments to Jim above.:)


Very cool James------looks like you could have some real fun with that.
Thanks Gary, appreciate the comments.


JD, as far as color, I'm no help because of being color blind, but I see what you're going to do. No matter what you choose, it's gonna look good.. Got a couple of questions, though.
1: I see that you have your blank already roughed out, and was wondering if you're going to turn a plug to reduce the volume of resin needed..
2: If you are going to turn a plug, do you have any chunks of that same wood? If you do, why not glue some chunks onto the plug above the rim and have it continue up to form wood with a lot of voids with resin in the voids... If you don't understand my poorly worded question, (even I'm having a problem) I could post a picture of one of my over 50 roughs that I'm one day going to finish......
3 & 4: Are you using Alumilite resin? If so, which one?......... Jerry (in Tucson)
Thanks Jerry. Not having any trouble understanding what your are saying, have thought along the same lines a few times myself and may try to add some wood in the gap but I am taking my time and am a few days maybe a week or two away from the actual pour so I have plenty of time(and wood) to add it. The plug has already been turned along with an outer shell. The only thing holding me up is the color and whether to add more wood but like I said I am taking my time. Yes the resin will be Alumilite. I wanted to use their standard clear with its 7 minute pot life but they are having production issues with it so I am limited to their water clear, a 5 minute pot life resin. Puts a little urgency on getting everything set up to mix and pour fast. I have already fit everything into my 2gal pressure pot, it pretty well maxis out the pot.

Here is a few photos of the near final setup with the plug in place and the outer shell.
I will be pouring through the center of the plug. Three are tenons and sockets on the plug, roughed out vase, and the outer shell to keep everything concentric. There is on average an 1/8" gap between the plug and vase and the outer shell and the vase.
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This pic shows everything assembled(outer shell still in two pieces, to be glued last) and with a plunger in the center. I am hoping to use the plunger to force shots(that center tube full of resin) into the cavity areas to speed up the pour and fill. Haven't tried this method but don't see any reason it shouldn't work. The plunger is a plugged piece of CPVC. I will have less then 5 minutes to get about a quart of resin into the mold and the whole thing pressurized. Do you think it will work?:confused: On second thought don't tell me:rolleyes: just keep your fingers crossed.
BTW I am starting to think bright red.:D
235824

[Alan Trout]

James,

I have orange pigments. I like orange but most people don't. It is the least liked color according to some color surveys of people. You either love or hate it. When combing color try to think about the color wheel. Complimentary colors give the best contrast because they are on separate sides of the wheel. But not all of my color combinations are complimentary. I do things all the time because I like them and I really don't care what others think. I feel/find if you do what you like there will be others that like them for the same reasons you do. It's kind of like my piece "Purple Haze". Yellow and purple are generally not a popular color combination and some hate it, others loved it including Tegan Foley so she made it a featured piece in Woodturning. I find ladies like the piece better than men. Its funny to see the different reactions people have.

Anyway good luck with the piece.

Alan

[Bernie Weishapl]

Cool pieces JD and love the colors.

[ray hampton]

James,

I have orange pigments. I like orange but most people don't. It is the least liked color according to some color surveys of people. You either love or hate it. When combing color try to think about the color wheel. Complimentary colors give the best contrast because they are on separate sides of the wheel. But not all of my color combinations are complimentary. I do things all the time because I like them and I really don't care what others think. I feel/find if you do what you like there will be others that like them for the same reasons you do. It's kind of like my piece "Purple Haze". Yellow and purple are generally not a popular color combination and some hate it, others loved it including Tegan Foley so she made it a featured piece in Woodturning. I find ladies like the piece better than men. Its funny to see the different reactions people have.

Anyway good luck with the piece.

Alan

purple is the colour of kings and queens

[Gary Herrmann]

And it's Gator orange. Very nicely done.

[Jerry Marcantel]

[QUOTE=James Combs;1950018]
. I will have less then 5 minutes to get about a quart of resin into the mold and the whole thing pressurized. Do you think it will work?:confused: On second thought don't tell me:rolleyes: just keep your fingers crossed.
BTW I am starting to think bright red.:DQUOTE]
James, I've been looking at the alumilite also, and if you look at their pot life time, you'll see that it is for a 100 gram mix, about 3 .125 oz at 32 grams per oz.. With the quarte you're going to mix, you're going to have even less pot life than you think. I need to get with Alan Trout, or he can chime back in on this thread and tell us what might happen since he uses a loy of Alumilite. . Whatchasay, Alan????? ...... Jerry (in Tucson)

[Alan Trout]

There is not much time to cast. You have to work fast. I do not cast as tight as James. I like to allow the resins to flow. Not saying that I am right, but that is how I do it. They do have a slower set version that they have made special for me for my large volume castings. I know it is available but not sure what amount it has to be purchased in. It can buy you about 3 minutes or so but does not work as well as with the thinner castings because you need the volume for the exothermic reaction for the reaction. However summer heat can accelerate the reaction as well. I would suggest refrigerating the B side and then mix that with the A side. This will buy you a little more time as well. I have done several castings over 100oz and it is a bit of a Chinese fire drill no matter what.

Alan

[James Combs]

James, I've been looking at the alumilite also, and if you look at their pot life time, you'll see that it is for a 100 gram mix, about 3 .125 oz at 32 grams per oz.. With the quarte you're going to mix, you're going to have even less pot life than you think.

I am definitely aware of the shorter pot life for larger volumes. I am hoping to offset it with refrigeration. When I mix up the resin I will be taking the two components straight out of the fridge. The lower temperature will slow it down somewhat but at this point I am not sure how much or if it will be enough. Many of the casters over on the IAP do the refrigeration gambit when casting either Alumilite or PR.

On a progress note, I added a "cap" of more ant sculpted walnut to fill in the top a little more. The piece is from the same stump as the original rough out vase but I don't think it is from the same end. I will probably have some grain mismatch although a lot the grain is curves.
235867

I also sealed it, glued the two halves of the outer shell together. It is now one piece and ready for the pour as soon as I finalize the color(now leaning to blue) and get enough courage:eek:. I also added a couple eye hooks to the top to use as lifting tabs. When I do pour it will be already sitting in the pressure pot so that all I have to do is throw the lid on it when the pour is done. I will have all my pen blank molds handy to use for any left over resin.
235868

Edit: I see that Alan posted as I was typing this. If I do any more of these I will check into the availability of Alan's version of the resin. If I could have gotten the standard clear Alumilite it would have helped a lot.

BTW, Alan if you see this, why do you cool only the B-side and not the A. Should I not cool the A-side?

[Alan Trout]

I am definitely aware of the shorter pot life for larger volumes. I am hoping to offset it with refrigeration. When I mix up the resin I will be taking the two components straight out of the fridge. The lower temperature will slow it down somewhat but at this point I am not sure how much or if it will be enough. Many of the casters over on the IAP do the refrigeration gambit when casting either Alumilite or PR.

On a progress note, I added a "cap" of more ant sculpted walnut to fill in the top a little more. The piece is from the same stump as the original rough out vase but I don't think it is from the same end. I will probably have some grain mismatch although a lot the grain is curves.
235867

I also sealed it, glued the two halves of the outer shell together. It is now one piece and ready for the pour as soon as I finalize the color(now leaning to blue) and get enough courage:eek:. I also added a couple eye hooks to the top to use as lifting tabs. When I do pour it will be already sitting in the pressure pot so that all I have to do is throw the lid on it when the pour is done. I will have all my pen blank molds handy to use for any left over resin.
235868

Edit: I see that Alan posted as I was typing this. If I do any more of these I will check into the availability of Alan's version of the resin. If I could have gotten the standard clear Alumilite it would have helped a lot.

BTW, Alan if you see this, why do you cool only the B-side and not the A. Should I not cool the A-side?

I only do the B side as if you do the A side it gets to thick and does not flow properly.

Alan

[James Combs]

I only do the B side as if you do the A side it gets to thick and does not flow properly.
Alan

Thanks Alan, I appreciate the info. I have been using water clear out of the fridge pretty much ever since I started casting with Alumilite. There doesn't seem to be much difference in viscosity between water clear side A and side B cold or at room temperature. Perhaps it is only the version that you use that gets thicker?

[Alan Trout]

Thanks Alan, I appreciate the info. I have been using water clear out of the fridge pretty much ever since I started casting with Alumilite. There doesn't seem to be much difference in viscosity between water clear side A and side B cold or at room temperature. Perhaps it is only the version that you use that gets thicker?

That is correct. Water clear is a little thinner than the clear. The clear alone has a little longer pot life than the water clear. I use a modified version of the clear. I think they call it slower set.

Alan

[Jerry Marcantel]

JD, is the outer shell absolutely neccessary? Couldn't you just use tape open baggies around your form? You're going to have equal pressure inside the pot, and the only thing the pressure does is squeeze the bubbles in your mix. If you pour the proper amount of resin, and a taped form is tight enough, wouldn't that work?. I'm asking these dumb questions because I'm ready to pull the plug and get some more casting stuff and do some cholla.
I've done a bunch of things with System 2000, but haven't use pressure yet. Instead, I vacummed some, and that was a problem because when you reach 27 hg, billions of tiny bubbles rise to the top and there goes the resin, all over my casting table and not impregnated into the wood. The results weren't encouriging as my vac dome is actually too short....
I also built up a few pieces of wood that were in pretty bad shape useing Sys 2000 to fill in all the gaps and voids. When I did this it was winter in Arizona. Even at 60+°, Sys 2000 does'nt like to move at all. Kinda like peanut butter, if you know what I mean. But, I used the slow hardner, and it has a pot life of about 2 hours and can be colored. I'll take pics of the pieces and post them in another thread.... ....... Jerry (in Tucson)

[James Combs]

JD, is the outer shell absolutely neccessary? Couldn't you just use tape open baggies around your form? You're going to have equal pressure inside the pot, and the only thing the pressure does is squeeze the bubbles in your mix. If you pour the proper amount of resin, and a taped form is tight enough, wouldn't that work?. I'm asking these dumb questions because I'm ready to pull the plug and get some more casting stuff and do some cholla.
I've done a bunch of things with System 2000, but haven't use pressure yet. Instead, I vacummed some, and that was a problem because when you reach 27 hg, billions of tiny bubbles rise to the top and there goes the resin, all over my casting table and not impregnated into the wood. The results weren't encouriging as my vac dome is actually too short....
I also built up a few pieces of wood that were in pretty bad shape useing Sys 2000 to fill in all the gaps and voids. When I did this it was winter in Arizona. Even at 60+°, Sys 2000 does'nt like to move at all. Kinda like peanut butter, if you know what I mean. But, I used the slow hardner, and it has a pot life of about 2 hours and can be colored. I'll take pics of the pieces and post them in another thread.... ....... Jerry (in Tucson)
When I did my last project I had a couple small voids that I filled post final turning. I believe they were the result of contact between the outer shell and the roughed vase. There are voids(worm holes) in the roughed vase that could be sealed if something like a plastic wrapper was used which if I understand you correctly is what you are saying. The rigid outer form is a uniform 1/8" or more away from the vase thereby insuring an unobstructed path to all voids, holes, etc in the vase. For this purpose I don't think a tight wrap on the outside would work. I am not familiar with the Sys 2000 but it sounds like it is not quite the right thing for an application where you need water like flow.

[James Combs]

That is correct. Water clear is a little thinner than the clear. The clear alone has a little longer pot life than the water clear. I use a modified version of the clear. I think they call it slower set.
Alan
So in my case having both in the fridge would probably be OK, right?

[Alan Trout]

So in my case having both in the fridge would probably be OK, right?

James,

I like my resin to be as thin as possible and not set to quickly. Thinner makes it better for penetrating the wood fibers and gives a much better bond. We all know what happens if it sets to quick. I know you guys are getting a lot of heat that way right now. What I would do is take the part A into the house so it is about 75 degrees and then refrigerate the part B. That should give you the best of both worlds. I just don't like to cast with warm resin it really can speed up the chemical reaction. In the winter I do nothing and in the summer on smaller pieces I don't worry to much because I have crude AC in the shop and it stays about 78 degrees. But with a large volume pour I take the part A in the house and refrigerate the part B.

Alan

[James Combs]

James,
I like my resin to be as thin as possible and not set to quickly. Thinner makes it better for penetrating the wood fibers and gives a much better bond. We all know what happens if it sets to quick. I know you guys are getting a lot of heat that way right now. What I would do is take the part A into the house so it is about 75 degrees and then refrigerate the part B. That should give you the best of both worlds. I just don't like to cast with warm resin it really can speed up the chemical reaction. In the winter I do nothing and in the summer on smaller pieces I don't worry to much because I have crude AC in the shop and it stays about 78 degrees. But with a large volume pour I take the part A in the house and refrigerate the part B.
Alan
Speaking of taking one into the house, I was also going cool down the vase and mold and bring them into the house is probably a good answer to doing that. I am afraid of getting condensation if I cool that mass too much and as I am sure you know Alumlite and moisture do not get along.

BTW thanks a gain for all the info, looking forward to your critique of the final product if I ever get it done.:o