My seventy-five cent "uni-bearing" hinge

[Phil Thien]

Had some scraps left over after making a silverware tray for my wife, and decided to make a small box.

In the past, I've used pieces of brass rod as pivots for the top. There is a certain amount of trial and error to get the length of the rods just right on each side so you have an even reveal on all sides of the top. And there is little chance to make adjustments once you've hammered the pins home.

So I came up with this little scheme.

I use four 10-24 (3/8" long in this case) stainless set screws, and two 5/32" steel balls. That is enough stuff for two "hinges," and all the gear is available at any well-stocked hardware store.

The set screws need to have the cup ends (this is the typical set screw that you see in hardware stores, but there are other types of set screws so I thought I'd mention it).

The box gets four holes: Two 5/32" through-holes (one on each side of the box) and two 5/32" 1" deep holes (one on each side of the top).

Each hole receives a 10-24 3/8" set screw. The set screws in the top are buried such that the steel balls that ride on top of them are just a tiny bit proud of the hole.

Once the set screws are installed, the steel balls are put in place and then the top is placed in position, and the set screws on the sides of the box are turned in until they engage the steel balls.

You can make adjustments to move the top left/right by adjusting the set screws in the box sides.

It works very smoothly, and the top can be removed for adjustments, finishing, etc.

Parts cost about $.75 per side, or $1.50 per box.

[Dave Zellers]

Very clever!

I love stuff like this.

[ray hampton]

can you install the top and the bearing before the side screws are install

[Phil Thien]

can you install the top and the bearing before the side screws are install

Yes, that is typically how I do it, so I only have to turn the side screws a half or quarter turn once I'm holding the top in place.

[Jamie Buxton]

Nice!

Am I gilding the lily by thinking about a threaded wood plug that screws in to hide set screw? A regular steel die can thread wood dowel. You'd probably have to cut a slot in the top, and insert it with a standard flat-bladed screwdriver.

[Phil Thien]

Nice!

Am I gilding the lily by thinking about a threaded wood plug that screws in to hide set screw? A regular steel die can thread wood dowel. You'd probably have to cut a slot in the top, and insert it with a standard flat-bladed screwdriver.

Sure, you could use shorter set screws (in this case, 1/4" long instead of 3/8") to leave room for a plug.

If I were doing it, I'd be inclined to thread the end of the dowel, then screw it in once I'm done assembling and finishing the box. I'd cut the dowel flush, sand it flusher, and then touch-up the finish.

That would work for me because I tend to finish my decorative boxes with Danish oil. If I was using a film finish, the plug may have to go in before the finish.

Another method to hide the set screw is to again use one that is 1/8" shorter than the side of the box is thick, drill a 1/8" through-hole through the side of the box, and a 5/32" hole from the inside that stops about 1/16" from the outside. Now thread the set screw in from the opposite (inside) side. Using this method, all you see is a tiny, 1/8" hole in the side. I've done that, too. A bit more of a PITA.

Lots of ways to hide the set screw.

But it is a small set screw. It doesn't bother me any more than the brass rod I sometimes used and left exposed.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Nice! I like it, I'll have to make a box to use it!

[Rick Potter]

Thinking outside...ahh...the box. Great!

Rick Potter

[Van Huskey]

I really like that.

[Bill White]

Now THAT'S a solution. Great thinking.
Bill