Making threads for my Beall Tap

[robert raess]

I bought a Beall tap 1 1/4"x8 tpi to make wood faceplates.Now in addition to that, I want to find a matching die for making my own wood threads.I have done some online searching, and so far have not found any this specific size in the U.S., anyone with some info, please point me in the right direction.Thanks Rob

[Eric Holmquist]

Closest I can come on short notice is
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-dies/=i3fjng

[Sean Hughto]

http://www.bealltool.com/products/threading/threader.php

[Scot Roberge]

Take a 1-1/4 x 8 nut and file a series of notches through the threads with a "V" shaped file. For the cost of dies in this size, I plan to spend some time filing . . .

[Dave Mueller]

It has unfortunately been my experience that the only 1 1/4 X 8 nuts (and allthread as well) are hardened. I doubt if a regular file will be able to cut notches in the nut's threads. It will probably require some kind of diamond coated file, or perhaps a small cylindrical diamond burr. I just got some 1 1/4 X 8 allthread and the only way I could cut it was with an abrasive wheel. If anyone can find nuts or allthread that is not hardened, please post the source. Another possibility is to soften it by heating. I recall seeing Roy Underhill on the Woodwright's Shop heat a file to soften it and then be able to cut it with a hacksaw.

[Dennis Ford]

McMaster Carr has 1-1/4 - 8tpi nuts in grade 2H (not hardened)


Part number 90521A275 is a package of 5 ($14.98)







I have used many of these to make face-plates. They are "Heavy" size (2" across the flats) and good quality.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I bought the same nuts that Dennis refers to to make a bunch of faceplates and for my vacuum chucks. You can file V's as was said to make a thread chaser.

[robert raess]

When you speak of filing a notch through the threads,I assume it allows a space to clear shavings as well an edge for cutting..??? I notice on dies for metal they have 4 or more 'notches' , would you attempt to file that many notches? regarding the dowel, would you turn to 1 1/4", and then run the dowel through the 'die-box'? I have noticed 'dowel plates' used for taking turned stock that is slightly over-size and pushing it thru the 'dowel plate'..do you think this would be necessary? Thanks for everybody's input!! Rob

[Scot Roberge]

As to the notches, yes, they allow space for clearing the shavings. I would try 4 notches. Since you are going to be threading a material much softer than metal, it will be important for the shavings to clear and not cause misthreading of the die. As to the dowel on which to thread, the optimal size may vary according to the density of the wood you use. It does need to be straight and round, so I would turn to your chosen diameter and not attempt using one of the dowel plates that stock is driven through to make "dowels".

We had and exellent presentation by David Ellsworth at the Carolina Mountain Woodturner's meeting week before last. David spoke for a few minutes about using the Beal spindle tap. His reverse chuck used a tapped plywood base for attachment to the spindle. One interesting tip he provided (that I intend to use) is to run the tap through the stock once and then harden the threads with CA glue. Once the glue sets, retap the threads. This creates stronger and more durable threads. Let us know how it goes . . .