new LV plow

[Paul Saffold]

My latest purchase is a LV plow. When they came out with the tongue blades and then the free shipping, I couldn't resist any longer.
The blade holder is based on Derek Cohen's as described in this post.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?186832-Accessory-Blades-for-the-Veritas-Small-Plow/page2


I just added a shelf for the plane and mounted it with a French cleat.

234982234983

[Mark Dorman]

Nice. have you put to test much?

[john davey]

Wow, mine arrived today as well. As usual I tried it right out of the box. It cut but it will get a proper sharpening in the morning and an added fence. I got the 3/16 blade and the TG cutters in 1/4 and 3/16 as well. This has been on my list forever and the free shipping along with the intro on the add on's got me. I am s weak :). Forst impression is it is well made like all LV stuff ....

[Paul Saffold]

I got the standard assortment of blades (no wide ones), plus the 3/16" tongue blade. I put a micro bevel on all the blades, which only took a few minutes. The backs on the LV blades are very flat. For the backs, I started with 8000 grit then to a green strop. I made 2 sets of t&g on scrap, one pine the other oak, just to see how the plane worked. Switching back and forth went much quicker the 2nd time. Like most things, a little practice helps. I need to play with the chip deflector a bit more. I found when cutting with the tongue blade that chips plugged coming off the right side. Like any of the other Veritas brand products I've tried, this is well engineered and built.
Paul

[Chris Griggs]

Nice Paul. I need to get a round to making a storage box for my blades too. I agree the switching back and forth gets much quicker after the first couple uses. I have found two things that help alleviate clogging. The first is to make sure the the chip deflector is in contact with the top of the blade so that shaving don't lodge between it and the blade. The most helpful thing I've found though is to lighten up the cut a bit, especially with the 1/4" tongue blade which I find is more prone to clogging than the smaller ones. Anyway, you'll enjoy this tool, its one of my favorites!

[Paul Saffold]

Chris, thanks for the tips. I had the cut really light but was still jamming. I'll try moving the deflector to contact the blade.

[Chris Griggs]

If your cuts were really light it must have been the deflector. That or you board was too thick. They mean it when they say that tongue should be at least 1/3 of the board thickness. I was messing around on a scrap that was just barely thin enough for the 1/4" tongue blade to totally cover and it definitely clogged more than a board that was 3/4" or slightly less.

Anyway, you should be able to take a medium cut with it, just not super heavy. I've been thinking of trying it out with out the deflector on at all, thinking that even if it clogs it will be easier to clear with my finger. Haven't had a chance to play with it much lately though...

[Jim Koepke]

Anyway, you should be able to take a medium cut with it, just not super heavy. I've been thinking of trying it out with out the deflector on at all, thinking that even if it clogs it will be easier to clear with my finger. Haven't had a chance to play with it much lately though...

Cutting tongues not only makes two separate shavings, there is interaction of deflection from the sides of the tongue being cut.

Here is a post with me cutting a tongue using a Stanley 45:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?121761-Specialty-Planes-for-quot-Neanderthal-Wisdom-quot&p=1239963#post1239963

The shaving are a medium to heavy. Not trying for a finished surface here. Though the planes are different, the problems encountered are quite the same.

A chop stick or small dowel helps to clear shavings. If a small dowel is used, a kerf can be cut in one end to slide over a thick shaving. rotating the dowel will trap the shaving and make it easy to remove. A small brush with stiff bristles is always helpful when clearing chips from planes.

jtk