glue gap problem

[Adam Lewis]

have a small problem with a glue up. i assume it is because i did not have enough clamps. but either way.....it is what it is.....

glued two slabs of walnut together to make a rear post for a rocking chair. one side (long edge) came together nice and tight. the opposite side, however, did not. so i have a gap of 1/16" + all the way down the length of the post. since this is my first chair, and my second neanderthal project i was hoping for some guidance. what should i do to fill said gap? slow set epoxy.....? but how will that look when i go to finish it with watco danish oil? i plan on doing a wet rub with 400 grit sandpaper.

overall the part seems very ridged. i do not think it is weak, but i don't want to take chances.

all help is appreciated.
thank you
adam

[Maurice Ungaro]

I'd rip it and re-glue it.

[Curt Putnam]

Rip and Re-glue. Check flatness of mating surfaces. That may have been the original problem.

[Bob Lang]

You don't have many choices, and the advice to do it over is the best. You might be able to plane a long wedge-shaped piece the same length as the post and glue it into the gap, wood in the hole will be far less visible than epoxy or some other filler, especially as time passes. The repair might take longer than the redo, and you will look at it with regret every time you look at the chair.

Bob Lang

[Jim Belair]

What they said.

[glenn bradley]

+1 Rip and re-glue.

[Jim Koepke]

My thoughts run with the others, but also there are some contrarian urges.

Pictures would help to determine the magnitude of your dilemma.

Filling the gap with wood dust mixed with epoxy might work. It would always be a reminder of your error on future projects.

It may be the easiest approach is to rip and redo the glue up.

jtk

[Kenneth Speed]

Well, Adam seems to be getting a lot of rip and redo and make it over replies but there is another way. Adam says that the gap is running the length of the piece and is 1/16" wide. Why not kerf out the gap and glue in a long thin Dutchman?

With an oil finish on walnut, if Adam pays some attention to the choice of wood for the Dutchman the repair should be about as close to invisible as is possible.

Without seeing the problem I can't honestly say how I'd deal with the problem.

Ken

[Adam Lewis]

lots of good advice. i will have a better look at it tonight and decide what to do.
thank you all for your help.
adam

[John Coloccia]

A 16" gap is pretty large. It makes me wonder how much stress the parts that are touching are under. I would redo it, not because I think you can't make a good repair, but that the entire joint may be a little fishy. Maybe post a picture because it's tough to visualize what's going on.

[george wilson]

Best to re do it as it is likely too weak a glue line. Also,it will always be there to remind you of it if you don't fix it right in the first place.

One of the things that helps make a superior craftsman is the willingness to cut back into a finished surface and correct what is wrong. This falls into that category. You rule the work. Don't let it rule you.

[Jim Koepke]

One of the things that helps make a superior craftsman is the willingness to cut back into a finished surface and correct what is wrong. This falls into that category. You rule the work. Don't let it rule you.

The difference between an amateur and a professional is how they handle their mistakes.

-- source unknown

jtk

[george wilson]

Sometimes a professional will turn a mistake into a feature. I have done that,though I can't recall offhand where. I don't mean that the mistake is not corrected,just corrected and made into part of the design IF it is tasteful.

[Adam Lewis]

i didn't get a chance to get out there and look at it better last night. too many things came up to keep me busy.
i will see about a camera. i personally don't have one, never really needed one, i guess.

thank you again