flatness of table saw top?

[Stephen Sebed]

How flat would you expect the top on a new table saw to be? I purchased a new jobsite saw and when I put a straight edge across either of the miter slots I can rock it slightly side to side. Not sure of the exact measurements but the table is definitely not flat. At what point should I contact the manufacturer? I know this isn't a high-dollar cabinet saw but I was expecting higher quality.

[Steven Triggs]

What material (cast iron, cast aluminum, steel, plastic, etc) is the top made of. This would affect the expectation of flatness.

[scott spencer]

...At what point should I contact the manufacturer? ....

I'd seek to resolve it when it becomes a problem. Generally it'd take a fairly large deviation in just the right location to effect your cuts. Get it aligned, put in a decent blade, and make some test cuts. If the cuts are off because of the table deviation, then I'd seek exchange or repair, but if the saw is otherwise performing well, I wouldn't sweat it....you can always end up with another that doesn't perform as well!

[Myk Rian]

What saw is it?
If it's a cheapo POS, you got what you paid for.
If it's a high dollar item, talk to the manufacturer.

[glenn bradley]

The manufacturer's spec on mine is .008" between any twp spots on the table (which is a lot IMHO). As the saw in question is a jobsite saw, there is a level of accuracy already understood. This is not designed for fine furniture, it is a portable saw to be used on the job and concessions need to be made to keep it at a given weight and price point. A surface domed at the blade area would concern me less than one that dips near the blade. An irregular top is a path to kickback but, a dip at the blade really invites it. As the cut is completing, the wood changes angle and can get launched.

[johnny means]

Flatness is a product of machining. Unless the top is machined, any expectation of machine quality flatness is unrealistic.

[Kevin Bourque]

The table top may have been "spot on" when it left the factory, but got out of whack while sitting in a damp warehouse somewhere in Joisey.

[Phil Thien]

Well, how much can you rock the straightedge?

Use feeler gauges under the straightedge until you can't rock it any more. The thickness of the feeler gauge is the height of the hump.

I agree w/ the others that the perfectly flat top on a job-site saw isn't critical. And quite honestly, I don't think a perfectly flat top on a cabinet makers saw is really that critical. As long as your trusted square tells you your cuts are 90-degrees to the face, you're good.

[Correy Smith]

Contractor saws are for trim and rough framing rips. To expect more is unrealistic. Some are better than others. Delta makes one with a CI top, or used to any way. PM as well. Those would be more suited for finer cutting. I started furniture work with job site saws and went thru three in a year looking for something that would do the trick. I would have been better off getting the used Unisaw I have now right from the get. Saved $ and much time trying to eek out quality results from a saw that was not designed for my intended use. I believe both ridgid and Craftsman both make econo TS that have nice fences and stout tops but I had never put a staright edge across one. .008" is right up there with most quality Euro saws. I remember when I used to have a dj-20 I was put back because Delta only stood by .012 for table flatness...... I don't have that anymore either.....

[Ken Fitzgerald]

What are the specifications shown by the manufacturer for that specific saw? Check and verify your straight edge.

If it is within the manufacturer's published specifications that is all you can expect.

[Stephen Sebed]

Thanks for the advice. I'll live with the table as it is now. I haven't used feeler gauges to measure it yet but I don't think it is off by more than 0.010". That and I'd rather not have to ship it back to the manufacturer.

[Jeff Duncan]

When you say job site saw I'm thinking something that cost maybe a few hundred bucks new? I think unless it's really out enough that it messes up your work you'll find it will be fine. In my opinion feeler gauges with a straight edge are a bit too much for a job site saw. Now if you can use a tape measure with a straight edge to check....you have a problem;)

good luck,
JeffD

[Richard Dragin]

Have you checked the straight edge?

[Rich Engelhardt]

Job site table saws have two requirements:

- They have to be portable. It's a job site tool after all.
- They have to run on 120VAC. Job sites with 220VAC are very few and far between. On most, the saw has to compete with the tools of all the other trades for the limited power available.

Anything else is optional - such as quailty....or useability...
The really bad news here is that you just started finding the limitations/warts.

There'll be plenty of others you'll run up against.
I reached the limit of what I was willing to trade off w/my job site saw & replaced it with a Ridgid TS3660 contractors saw.
Nice flat heavy cast iron table & it doesn't take up much more space than the job site saw did.

[pat warner]

"know this isn't a high-dollar cabinet saw but I was expecting higher quality. "
If a flat stick, ~as big the biggest stick you might cut, rocks on the table then you're at risk.
If you can't find a place on the table, using the biggest and smallest sticks you might cut, then its mishapenness is not of practical concern. Is it nice? No, about like programs that are busted on purchase date and constantly updated.

[Correy Smith]

Rich, cool to hear a thumbs up on the Ridgid TS. We were always able to run a temp 220 for any bigger gear we brought along. Compressors, table saws etc..