Festool Track Saw Questions

[Rich Riddle]

I am purchasing a track saw and most likely a Festool. Last week I experienced some kickback from sawing large sheet goods on a Unisaw and it caused serious bruising. When looking at the track saws, it appears as though the TS 55 is far more compact, but I foresee making at least three or more wood doors this year. Should I go for the TS 75 model instead? The only other model under consideration is the Makita, but it's a distant possibility. Thank you.

[Scott T Smith]

Rich, when I purchased my TS55 I debated between it and the larger 75 model. At the end of the day I opted for the 55 because I felt that it would be more maneuverable and easier to handle.

I've cut quite a bit of thick (5/4, 6/4, 7/4) QSWO and QSRO with it, with no issues. The only suggestion that I would make is to be sure to position the guide so that you can complete the plunge before entering the board; other wise it can jump on you as it plunges through.

[Tony Joyce]

I have access to and use both regularly. If you really need the depth of cut get the TS75, otherwise go with the TS55. When I recently had a chance to purchase a new TS55 for my own use, at a substantial discount, I didn't hesitate. I'm just using it for sheet goods, but it's weight & size are perfect for that application.

[Rich Riddle]

I have access to and use both regularly. If you really need the depth of cut get the TS75, otherwise go with the TS55. When I recently had a chance to purchase a new TS55 for my own use, at a substantial discount, I didn't hesitate. I'm just using it for sheet goods, but it's weight & size are perfect for that application.
I would most certainly almost always use it for sheet goods, but five or ten percent of the times would use it on things thicker than the depth of the TS55. I truly don't want to be sending a door through the Unisaw to say the least.

[Ray Newman]

My standard answer: go on a culture trip to several tool dealers and examine and handle the saws. The saw must feel right to you or you probably will not use it.

[Jeff Monson]

If you are going to use it for occasional heavy cuts (like a door) go with the 75. I had to trim some butcher block coutertops for fitment a couple weeks ago, I'm really glad I had the 75. If I were ONLY cutting sheet goods, the 55 would be my choice as its much lighter.

[Larry Frank]

I have the TS55 and it is great with sheet goods and has no problem even with 3/4" exterior plywood. However, if you are going to be cutting thicker stuff on a routine basis, get the larger one.

My choices of tools has been to go to lighter tools as I get older. The TS75 is about 4 pounds heavier and about $125 more expensive. But you need to buy the right tool for what you are going to do.

[johnny means]

IMO the TS 55 is very much up to the task of regular door cutting. Unless, your talking about massive 4" thick castle doors or something similar. I've cut plenty of 1.5' rock maple butcher block with no problem with my TS 55. I opted for the 55 because I thought the 75 was just way to big for a job site tool and I can't foresee any real need for more than 2" capacity in the field. But, if size is not an issue, a little extra capacity never hurts.

[Rich Riddle]

I was hoping Festool would offer a slight discount this week leading to Father's Day. Well, that doesn't seem to be happening. Oh well.

[johnny means]

I was hoping Festool would offer a slight discount

LMFAO, funniest post all year:D

[Rich Riddle]

What amazes me is that people pay near full retail for used Festool tools just like they do for Lie Neilsen hand tools. Why not pay a few dollars more and get the warranty? Heck, some of those folks even pay more than retail when you consider shipping.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Don't discount other saws such as the Dewalt Plunge saw.

[Rich Riddle]

Don't discount other saws such as the Dewalt Plunge saw.I am considering the Makita, but the Green Kool Aid group is very cool.

[Alan Lightstone]

I am considering the Makita, but the Green Kool Aid group is very cool.

Mmmmm. Green Kool-Aid.

You'll love the TS55. I almost excusively use it for sheet goods instead of my SawStop. Just easier, and I feel safer.

[Sam Murdoch]

There is simply no better warranty and customer service than with Festool. That must be a consideration for such a serious purchase. You do get your money's worth. As for the TS 55 or TS 75 for 3 or 4 doors per year at 1-3/4" to 2" thick or less made of wood I would not hesitate to use the smaller saw, especially if the remaining time you are cutting sheet material. The right saw blade will help with the door work.

[Jamie Buxton]

The '55 ships with a blade optimized for chip-free cuts in sheet goods. (That is, it has lots of teeth, and a negative hook angle on them.) It will rip solid lumber, but it is kinda like cutting wood with a hacksaw blade. If you're going to be ripping lumber, a rip blade is a very good purchase.

[Rich Riddle]

The '55 ships with a blade optimized for chip-free cuts in sheet goods. (That is, it has lots of teeth, and a negative hook angle on them.) It will rip solid lumber, but it is kinda like cutting wood with a hacksaw blade. If you're going to be ripping lumber, a rip blade is a very good purchase.
Do you know what blade ships with the TS75?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I am considering the Makita, but the Green Kool Aid group is very cool.

I only have one Festool Tool that I really don't care for.... A router.

[Rick Fisher]

Andrew.. Which router ? I love Festool routers.. lol .. If its one I don't have....

One great thing about Festool is that everything works together.. Changing the power at the handle is brilliant.. I often jump from one router to another, then the sander, and never see the vac or the power outlet..

[Rich Engelhardt]

When looking at the track saws, it appears as though the TS 55 is far more compact, but I foresee making at least three or more wood doors this year
My TS 55EQ does 1.5" thick solid wood doors w/no problems.

Were it does seem to bog down a bit is cutting double layers of 3/4" ply.
Even that isn't all that bad though.

If the TS55 doesn't work out for you, you can always return it for a full refund w/in 30 days - no questions asked.

[ian maybury]

+1 that the limitation on the TS 55 is the depth of cut. That the choice really depends on the depth of cut needed on the work you will be doing. There have been times where I wished I had more, and ended up having to cut from both sides and maybe clean up with a flush cutting router bit.

+1 also that the stock blade will rip solid, but isn't all that happy doing it near the depth of cut capability - it's necessary to take it steady on the feed or the motor can overheat and show the red warning light. The rip blade for that reason sounds like it would be a good idea if you were doing much of that sort of work.

+1 again that it's best to plunge fully if you can before starting to cut. The saw can otherwise push back (it's not really a kick back as such, more that the curve to the front of the blade pops through, and the resulting rapid drop to full depth drives the rear of the blade into the material which may result in the saw trying to lift) which can be enough to jog the rail or whatever....

ian

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Andrew.. Which router ? I love Festool routers.. lol .. If its one I don't have....

One great thing about Festool is that everything works together.. Changing the power at the handle is brilliant.. I often jump from one router to another, then the sander, and never see the vac or the power outlet..

It is the middle sized router...

[Bob Rankin]

I went with the TS75, I don't use it all day so I'm not concerned about the weight. I knew one day I'd be cutting thicker material and would kick myself for not spending a little more to get the bigger saw, I intend on having this thing for years and years. If I were cutting sheet goods all day long I'd go with the lighter one. Although, if I were doing this all day long I'd end up with both.

[Rich Riddle]

I went with the TS75, I don't use it all day so I'm not concerned about the weight. I knew one day I'd be cutting thicker material and would kick myself for not spending a little more to get the bigger saw, I intend on having this thing for years and years. If I were cutting sheet goods all day long I'd go with the lighter one. Although, if I were doing this all day long I'd end up with both.
This makes sense. I won't be cutting wood all day as you say but will need a deeper cut four or five times a year. I will likely use this about twenty times a year, so it makes sense to upgrade to the larger model and not try to perform a double cut each time when cutting through thicker materials.

Now I get to decide which seller/vendor to use. Most offer free shipping, but since all offer the same price I'm trying to discern any other advantages of particular sellers.

[Michael W. Clark]

I bought some Festool from Woodcraft and got store points which you can redeam like cash later, the other retailers probably have something similar. I've also bought from a website, and they had a good price on extractor attachments, a set Woodcraft didn't have, and free shipping, no tax.

[Will Blick]

The 55 is lighter, as previous poster mentioned...if you use the saw all day, this adds up on your arms, or if you have arthritis, or not very strong.... however, if that is a non-issue for you...then consider....

In addition to the obvious added cut depth, the 75 was my choice for a different reason.... it has more POWER...which allows you to move faster through a cut, with prevents burn marks in hardwoods. Larger blade absorbs more heat before it gets hot enough to burn. I like to edge rip 6-8ft 3/4" maple boards to get a perfect jointed edge. IMO, this is one of the most under utilized benefits of the TS system... I use mine maybe 20% for sheet break downs. And when I do use it for Sheets, I cut 2 sheets simultaneously even with 1" sheets, this assure identical cuts. I would not try this on the 55.

OTOH, if all I was doing was using MTF and single sheets, the 55 is the right tool, and your arms will thank you.

[Rich Riddle]

Will thanks for that insight as it proved very helpful in the final decision. I ordered the TS 75 system through Tyler Tool today for $675. There is a Woodcraft in Kentucky, so this decision with Tyler allowed a purchase with no sales tax. They already sent a tracking number. No deal for Father's day though.

[Will Blick]

congrats Rich.... Festool, sale? those two words don't mix :-)

Next, you are confronted with the rails.... the 75 is longer than the 55, so for 8ft sheets, you need 3000/2...and you must place it strategically, more hanging off the start end, as it consumes a lot of the rail. Long 2" sheets of dense pink or blue Polystyrene insulation makes the system a breeze to use.... oh, combined with lots of space to lay all this out. If you can avoid it, don't combine rails, get the sizes you need. Good luck, and let us know your thoughts with the system. Lots of good videos on youtube with tips n tricks...

[Pat Turner]

I have the TS55. I really wish I had bought the bigger saw. Some times I want to cut two sheets at a time, and after a single 8' cut of 1.5" birch pleywood, The motor slows to a crawl as it activates some over heat circuit. I've done two major projects each involving cutting 400 to 500 lf of laminated 1.5" birch ply on site and the TS55 is not up to the task. And we won't mention cutting a taper on 8/4 red oak with it.

For occasional use I can offer the following.
Chill the saw before use (ice chest- just keep it dry)
The engineer in me says dust collection has to keep the saw cooler
Use a small spring jaw clamp to keep the trigger depressed to allow the motor to run, running the fan, and cooling the saw faster then if left undisturbed. This works better in the ice chest :).

If I get another project like this, I'm ordering the bigger saw. Having said that, the TS55 allready feels bulky to me compaired to the typical sidewinder saw.

And the TS55 will cut through single sheet thicknesses like butter.

[Tony Joyce]

Pat,
I found if you limit the length of drop cords and use heavy gauge on the ones you do use it will help. I didn't believe it, till I tried it. Festool has built in power circuitry to protect the motors from low amperage.

Tony