Crack filling with gap filling CA

[Thomas Canfield]

The presentation last month at the Hill Country Turners was about CA glue. Uel Clanton told some of his long history with CA from its early days and told how to use it properly for filling cracks. Uel recommended that thin CA always be used first to wick into the thin crack and then the gap filling Ca be applied liberly over the crack surface, even adding more as it is sucked into the crack. The use of an accelerator spray will then set the thick CA surface. The use of a thin coat of lacquer or shellac to the adjacent surface prior to using the CA will help prevent the CA discoloring the wood since the coating will be sanded off during the finish sanding. The big thing seemed to be using the thin CA to draw in the thicker CA to fill the gap instead of just bridge the opening. That was different and I wanted to share the info.

Since the meeting, I have had several opportunities to fill some cracks and splits. I use spray Deft to coat the area, then apply Hot Stuff Orig CA Instant Glue (thin), Hot Stuff Gap Filling Instant Glue (thick), and then the Satellite City NCF Quick (spray finish). The gap filling has worked out much better on cracks up to about 3/32". I have not tried the procedure with fill material, but expect that it would do well with something like coarse coffee grounds, or some of the coarser stone.

[Jim Burr]

I use it on a daily basis for pen stuff. On inlays, it does great. I really does have it's limitations...epoxy and other glues do well for things like adheasion, laminate combination...so on.

[Jon Murphy]

Most of my work is medium to small hollow forms from relatively green wood. Cracks are a regular thing as one can't hollow the wood quickly enough to avoid the differential drying (although taping the end grain after turning the piece to the face grain cutting position does help).

I collect the fine shavings and sawdust from the various parts of the wood (pith and sapwood) as I work it. When I get a crack I rub the shavings and dust into it, then use Original Hot Stuff to seal it. I don't wait for the crack to enlarge, I hit it as soon as it is visible. The thin CA soaks into the sawdust and effectively makes new wood. There is a problem with discoloration as the thin CA soaks into the surrounding wood. That can avoided by laying on a bit of shellac - but I usually don't do that as I make the crack a part of the grain and charm. I do this even on wood I expect to turn away in finishing, and once it is turned away I refill the underlying crack with sawdust and thin CA.

[Bill Wilcox]

When I get or find any type of void in the project I'm working on, I have to think if I want the void left open or filled. What I use on voids I want filled is use a mixture of 5 min epoxy and then I mix in some brass filings from a key duplicator at the local hardware store. The filings add a real nice touch.