Where do you mount a stock feeder, on a table saw?

[dirk martin]

Do you mount it in front of the blade, so the feeder grabs your board, and then pushes it into the blade?

Do you mount it behind the blade, such that you start it into the blade, and then the feeder picks it up on the outfeed?

Do you mount it to the side of the blade? ... which side?

[Rod Sheridan]

233939

Hi, I clipped the above image from my feeder manual as it's probably easier than describing it................Rod.

P.S. I have a groove in two of my wheels, not very deep from the blade cutting into them. Nothing to worry about as long as you don't cut all the way to the rim.

On my saw I have a flip up mount for the feeder, I'll see if I have any photographs of it in use

[Greg Portland]

Rod, have you tried feeding boards in reverse for reduced tear-out?

[Rod Sheridan]

No, my saw has a scoring saw as well.

Are you suggesting a shallow scoring cut with piece fed backwards, then raising the blade and cutting the piece through in the normal direction?

I don't see why you couldn't do that with a feeder, just remember to reposition the feeder so the blade is between the correct wheels...........Rod.

[Walter Plummer]

We have two sets of holes on the saw for mounting the feeder. Out feed left corner and out feed right corner. They pretty much cover all the set ups we have done. You can score your cut or just climb cut the piece quite safely. One thing I like to do when using the feeder on the tables saw is to clamp a board behind the fence at the end opposite the locking lever. This prevents the feeder pushing the fence and changing the dimension or possibly "knocking" it out of square. I feel this is especially important when climb cutting.

[Jeff Duncan]

Rod, have you tried feeding boards in reverse for reduced tear-out?

Are you cutting melamine? Otherwise the only reason you would get tear out while ripping wood is if your blade is completely shot:confused:

If your talking about running the boards back to front on a table saw that is not something I think anyone should try. There are a number of other much safer ways to clean up your cuts depending on what your specific needs are.

good luck,
jeffD

[Greg Portland]

No, my saw has a scoring saw as well.

Are you suggesting a shallow scoring cut with piece fed backwards, then raising the blade and cutting the piece through in the normal direction?

I don't see why you couldn't do that with a feeder, just remember to reposition the feeder so the blade is between the correct wheels...........Rod.
No, I'm talking about making the entire cut in reverse. This is a common technique with a shaper... I'm wondering if it would be practical / safe to do with a table saw + large power feeder.

[Todd Burch]

I don't have a scoring saw on my TS, but when the mood suits me to get absolutely zero tearout / chip out in very thin veneer ply, I lower the blade to about 1/16" of the blade protrusion, and feed the normal direction. Then, full blade height as required for the second pass and I succeed, every time.

[Rod Sheridan]

No, I'm talking about making the entire cut in reverse. This is a common technique with a shaper... I'm wondering if it would be practical / safe to do with a table saw + large power feeder.

If you make a through cut with reverse feed it will simply move the tear out to the top surface................Rod.

[dirk martin]

I can't quite tell by the pic, but from the standpoint of the operator, are the stock feeder wheels to the left, or right of the blade?

And is it fair to say, the wheels are about even with the blade?...not behind it, or in front of it?

[Van Huskey]

I can't quite tell by the pic, but from the standpoint of the operator, are the stock feeder wheels to the left, or right of the blade?

And is it fair to say, the wheels are about even with the blade?...not behind it, or in front of it?


I have always seen the feeder set with 1/3 to the front (feed side) 2/3 after the blade.

[Rod Sheridan]

I can't quite tell by the pic, but from the standpoint of the operator, are the stock feeder wheels to the left, or right of the blade?

And is it fair to say, the wheels are about even with the blade?...not behind it, or in front of it?

As I indicated in my original post, two of my wheels have a groove in them, cut by the saw blade, that way I have wheels on both sides of the blade.

One wheel in front of the blade arbour, two behind..............Regards, Rod.

[Peter Quinn]

I too run the feeder right over the blade on narrow work. If there is room I will put the whole wheel to the righ of the blade, between the blade and fence. But on narrow rips I have a set of wheels with grooves, and I try to use the same pre grooved area each time. The first time you do it you have to raise the blade right into the rubber, avoid the hubs.

One condition which is not advisable is running the feeder to tthe left of the blade. This will push the off cut into the back of the blade with each pass and leave the keeper free to come back at you after the cut. Most or all of the feed wheels should be between fence and blade.

Comatic now makes a dedicated TS power feed with 2 large radius tires so you can put one wheel on each side of the blade and not hit the blade at all. Its really the best practice if you can justify the expense for a feeder dedicated to a saw. Mine has to move from saw to shaper.

[Harvey Melvin Richards]

Rod, have you tried feeding boards in reverse for reduced tear-out?

I regularly climb cut (reverse feed ) dados in melamine. I get zero tearout with this method.