Freud Rail and Stile Gap

[Travis Fatzinger]

I bought a Freud P.A.R.S rail and stile bit set. This is my first time making rails and stiles and I'm not sure if the gap I'm getting is unacceptable. Seems big to me, you can wiggle the rail in the stile. This was my fourth attempt and so far the best. Do they need to be shimmed? If so which bit? I am using a Milwaukee 5625 and an MLCS table. I am using a coping sled for the rails. Thanks for any help.

233893

[Larry Frank]

I have a set made by Whiteside and do not have any gaps and think your gaps are too big.

The Freud set that you are using is quite different from mine and it looks like you can shim it.

[Travis Fatzinger]

The more I think about it, I can't figure out why the male part of the tongue and groove is shorter and how that could be fixed.

[Bill Bukovec]

I had the same problem with a set I have.

The set is a lower cost alternative to a Freud set.

My problem was because my router wasn't tight enough to my router table.

My gap was about .040" too big.

Once I really tightened everything, my problem was solved.

[Michael W. Clark]

Make sure your fence is aligned with your bearing on the bit for both cuts. Also make sure your sled keeps the rail against the router table fence.

[Travis Fatzinger]

Everything is tight, I double checked that. I've triple checked the fence and everything else. I was actually wondering if it is possible the bearings in the router are no good, even though it is brand new.

[Michael W. Clark]

Is it possible the action of the bit could be pushing the rail away from the fence when usung your sled? I use finger boards when running the stiles to keep them close to tge fence and tight to the table.

[Bill Huber]

Everything is tight, I double checked that. I've triple checked the fence and everything else. I was actually wondering if it is possible the bearings in the router are no good, even though it is brand new.

Have you measured the bits, from the bearing to the outside edge of the slot cutter on both bits. If it is not the same you have a bearing problem with one of the bits.

233909

[Richard Coers]

It's not uncommon for the gap at the bottom of the tongue. You want the profile to bottom out, not the tenon. You can't change the width of the groove bit, so remove a shim from the other bit to make a smaller groove. They almost always have some shims already in them. If that gap at the bottom of the tongue bothers you, glue in a tiny wedge after the glue up. It's end grain there, the wedge will disappear.

[Bob Wingard]

A few years back, Sommerfeld sold some "OFFSET TONGUE & GROOVE" bit sets with an improperly sized bearing. They made a few attempts at correcting the situation, to no avail ... wound up using the next smaller O.D. bearing, and pressing on a machined brass collar that gave me a prefect fit.

Shouldn't be necessary, but even the best screw up once in a while.

[Curt Harms]

Freud has, or at least used to have, a pretty good technical support line. Phone: (800) 334-4107

http://www.freudtools.com/t-contact.aspx

[Michael W. Clark]

Freud has, or at least used to have, a pretty good technical support line. Phone: (800) 334-4107

http://www.freudtools.com/t-contact.aspx

I would make the measurements Bill describes above and give them a call if you have tried everything else. Based on the pictures, it appears to be a horizontal alignment issue. I had a problem setting up a set from Freud, and they were more than happy to help me over the phone and they emailed me some additional information/directions as well.

Mike

[Don Jarvie]

To make sure the bearing and fence are in line I take a ruler and hold it against the bearing and pull the fence so the bearing and 2 sides of the fence all touch the ruler.