Anyone else make box bottom slotting bits?

[Phil Thien]

Does anyone besides Lee Valley make router bits like these?

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=47818&cat=1,46168,46176

I have two of the LV bits, but I broke the carbide on one of them the first time I used it (a couple of years ago now). I was thinking of replacing it but was surprised by the price (I thought I spent about $20 on it originally).

Anyway, I was looking for another source, anyone have any ideas?

Whiteside makes some bits with the bearings on the shaft side. I think the LV configuration is more flexible.

[Jerrimy Snook]

Whiteside bit numbers are 1904-1924. They have slot cutters that range from 1/8" to 3/4". Look here under Slotting & Rabbeting (http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs).

[Bill Huber]

I think a lot of companies make a slot cutter bit. I use Eagle America myself and have had very good luck with their bits.
http://www.eagleamerica.com/prod_detail_list/ea_-_slot_cutters

[Phil Thien]

Whiteside bit numbers are 1904-1924. They have slot cutters that range from 1/8" to 3/4". Look here under Slotting & Rabbeting (http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs).

Yeah, but these need to have a smaller diameter, so they can get into the corners of a (for instance) small jewelry box.

[Phil Thien]

Just so everyone knows, these are miniaturized slot cutting bits, specifically designed for cutting the slot for the bottom of a small (for example) jewelery box. Typical slot cutting bits are much larger.

[Roger Pozzi]

Have you checked with Holbren? I think that's where mine came from.

[Phil Thien]

Have you checked with Holbren? I think that's where mine came from.

They don't really sell anything that is the equiv. of the Lee Valley bits. Holbren does have undercut carbide bits (from Whiteside). The bearings are on the shaft side (opposite the Lee Valley bits) and so I'll be somewhat limited in terms of bearing sizes I can use. But I think I can make them work.

[Brian Gumpper]

What about these?

http://www.holbren.com/slotting-rabbeting/

http://www.holbren.com/home.php?cat=112

[Phil Thien]

What about these?

http://www.holbren.com/slotting-rabbeting/

http://www.holbren.com/home.php?cat=112

I have a couple of those. The 1-1/4" diameter (the smallest) means that you can't get all the way into the corner of a box made with 1/4" thick sides.

It is okay. I plan on ordering some of the undercut bits with the 3/4" thick diameter and the top bearing. I think I can make those work just fine.

[Cary Falk]

Here are a few,
http://www.eagleamerica.com/prod_detail_list/ea_-_slot_cutters
http://routerbitworld.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=slot+cutter
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1/188-6039487-3409141?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=slot+cutter+router+bit

[Tom Ewell]

Have you mentioned to LeeValley about the broken carbide on your current bits?
They might still be interested even though they're oldies, perhaps the price increase is result of new fabricator with higher quality.

[Phil Thien]

Have you mentioned to LeeValley about the broken carbide on your current bits?
They might still be interested even though they're oldies, perhaps the price increase is result of new fabricator with higher quality.

To be clear, just one bit has a chipped tooth.

And it broke during one of the first uses, it didn't come broken.

I think if I called them, they'd replace it as a matter of courtesy. I think that is how good an outfit LV really is.

So I refuse to call them, because I'm not going to put them in the position where they're going to feel obligated to do something for me. Because it seems just as likely to me that I caused the failure.

[Charles Lent]

Phil,

I have had both of the Lee Valley bits and have used them many times with no problems. I wouldn't hesitate to buy replacements from Lee Valley if I ever need them. I think you either got one with a flaw or you damaged it somehow. Mine are holding up fine. As far as I know, Lee Valley is the only source for these. I looked long and hard for a cheaper source and didn't find any others at any price.

Charley

[Roy Harding]

Lee Valley has NEVER given me a problem when replacing damaged bits. They are so honest that I once reported being shorted in a shipment - they sent the "missing" items. I THEN discovered that I had mis-counted - I advised them of the error, offering to pay for the additional items - they graciously refused my offer.

I've returned bits to them that failed on the first use - no problem. Overall, however, their quality is outstanding.

[Phil Thien]

Lee Valley has NEVER given me a problem when replacing damaged bits. They are so honest that I once reported being shorted in a shipment - they sent the "missing" items. I THEN discovered that I had mis-counted - I advised them of the error, offering to pay for the additional items - they graciously refused my offer.

I've returned bits to them that failed on the first use - no problem. Overall, however, their quality is outstanding.

I KNOW they wouldn't give me a problem.

I'm uncomfortable mentioning it to them because I feel there is a greater chance that I did something wrong, or there was something in the wood, or whatever.

If I even mention it to them, they're going to insist on replacing it, which really isn't fair to them.

I want to be clear that I'm not bashing LV. I think LV is terrific.

I'd use the bit so ocassionally I figured maybe someone else made a lower-cost ($20 or so) version.

But I have no complaints over the LV quality, or service.

[Brian Kerley]

Any slotting bit will still do what you want. If the depth of cut is too great then you have a few options. A router bushing could push the router further away from the work, giving you a reduced depth of cut, or you just use a larger diameter bearing to reduce the depth of cut.

There are many ways of doing this though. One is to use a straight-cutting bit in the diameter you desire and run your pieces, face down instead of against the fence, over the bit. I would prefer this as straight cutting bits will tend to be used in my shop quite a bit more than any other bit, and likely will be cheaper than a slot-cutter. You can also run the pieces over your tablesaw blade to create the slot as well.

[Richard Hutchings]

I've never seen this technique before. Now I want a box slotter. :D

[Keith Hankins]

Any slotting bit will still do what you want. If the depth of cut is too great then you have a few options. A router bushing could push the router further away from the work, giving you a reduced depth of cut, or you just use a larger diameter bearing to reduce the depth of cut.

There are many ways of doing this though. One is to use a straight-cutting bit in the diameter you desire and run your pieces, face down instead of against the fence, over the bit. I would prefer this as straight cutting bits will tend to be used in my shop quite a bit more than any other bit, and likely will be cheaper than a slot-cutter. You can also run the pieces over your tablesaw blade to create the slot as well.

I'm with you on the face down on the router table up-cut spiral no bearing required. Then Mill the bottoms to fit the slot.

[Charles Lent]

Many of you are missing the reason for these small diameter slotting bits. To use them you build the four sides of your box using dovetails or box joints. Then you temporarily assemble the four sides of the box, holding it together with clamps, string, rubber bands, etc. To cut the slot for the bottom you install the small diameter slotting bit in your router table and set it's height. You then place the box on the router table with the bit inside the box and rout the slot all the way around the inside of the box. With the small diameter of the bit, all of the corners are routed close enough that the curve formed by the diameter of the bit is inside the corner boards so the box bottom's corners (slightly rounded) will be hidden. It's fast and easy to make small box bottom slots this way. The advantage is that you get a perfect bottom slot with no need for multiple steps as would be required with larger diameter slotting bits that don't reach fully into the corners. You can cut these slots with straight bits, but you would need precision stops to keep from cutting the slots too far. These small diameter slotting bits eliminate the need for this.

I still haven't found any sources for these small diameter slotting bits, other than Lee Valley

Charley

[Brian Kincaid]

Phil,
I just take a gouge and knock off the corners of the box/drawer bottom. You just solved problem for me, where is my tool wishlist...
-Brian

[Phil Thien]

Many of you are missing the reason for these small diameter slotting bits. To use them you build the four sides of your box using dovetails or box joints. Then you temporarily assemble the four sides of the box, holding it together with clamps, string, rubber bands, etc. To cut the slot for the bottom you install the small diameter slotting bit in your router table and set it's height. You then place the box on the router table with the bit inside the box and rout the slot all the way around the inside of the box. With the small diameter of the bit, all of the corners are routed close enough that the curve formed by the diameter of the bit is inside the corner boards so the box bottom's corners (slightly rounded) will be hidden. It's fast and easy to make small box bottom slots this way. The advantage is that you get a perfect bottom slot with no need for multiple steps as would be required with larger diameter slotting bits that don't reach fully into the corners. You can cut these slots with straight bits, but you would need precision stops to keep from cutting the slots too far. These small diameter slotting bits eliminate the need for this.

I still haven't found any sources for these small diameter slotting bits, other than Lee Valley

Charley

Thank you Charley!