Making a tool handle - need guidance

[Jim Laumann]

I picked up a Hunter #1 Hercules chisel last week - comes handle-less, so here comes one of those learning experiences.....

I found a piece of ash in the wood pile, and am about to rough it in to shape - and that leads me to my questions....

When I drill the hole in the handle for the tool shank, is a 1/32" oversize enough or to little space?

I was assuming that I'd need to epoxy the tool in to the handle - but having looked thru the archived threads, I see the
discussion of ferules (correct term?), am wondering if a good snug fit is enough w/ one of those? I was thinking of using
3/4 copper pipe for one.

Any other tips or suggestions?

Thanks

Jim

[Prashun Patel]

I've used 3/4" copper pipe as a ferrule. A better choice is a brass nut, but the copper has held up fine on my 5/8" bowl gouge that takes a good amount of abuse.

The ferrules I use seem to prevent splitting - not spinning of the tool in the hole.

In my experience (I've only made a few handles) a dab of epoxy in the hole is all you really need to hold it still.

Last, before you fit the tool or even the ferrule, I'd finish up the handle however yr planning to, and see how you like the feel. I was counselled to not use oak for a handle because of how it'd feel. I was surprised to find that advice sage. Ash, being similarly open grained, might also not be too pleasant to hold...?

[Dennis Ford]

1/32 oversize should be fine for epoxy and copper pipe makes great ferrules. The copper pipe should be a tight fit.

[John Keeton]

I would add that if you have a good friction fit, you can forego the glue. If you get enough of a catch to cause rotational force the glue isn't going to make that much of a difference to keep the tool from rotating in the handle. If you do use glue, apply it to the shaft of the tool along the last 1/4" or so to go into the hole. You can release the tool by applying heat to the shaft and in that manner, you would not need to apply enough heat to heat the shaft all the way to the bottom of the hole.

Like Prashun, I would avoid ash. It works for garden tools, but one wears gloves in using those tools to avoid blisters - caused by the ash handle!

[Chris Studley]

I've had good results w/ Jatoba (aka Brazilian Cherry) It is quite dense and therefore heavy. It is closed grain enough and Isn't that expensiive. I went to 400 grit and a coat of wax and it is quite comforrtablke in my hand. It is even cheaper that Maple in my area.

I used a 1" copper ferrule for both my 1/2" an 5/8" gouges.

[Robert Henrickson]

All the numerous handles I have made are ash; good grip and never any blisters. I've used copper tube nipples for ferrules. All the tools have been friction-fit. Never had any need for glue.

I've also found that I like the diameter larger than is usually found on commercial tools.

[charlie knighton]

dogwood is a good wood to use, i also like a larger diameter handle

be sure the dogwood is seasoned, it does split while drying

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I use ash for handles. It works just fine. It's what you want to use. As long as it's a hard wood, it should be okay. I also like my handles a little fatter. Several big name companies also use ash for handles.

I use copper pipe couplers for ferrules. It's a larger diameter and they seem to be a little bit thicker. They also have finished edges. Cut them in half, put the cut side to the handle, and the finished end is on the tool side. No need to file and end prep the edge. Save you just a little bit of time and effort.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have used a lot of ash for handles along with maple. I also use copper pipe couplers and like my handles slightly larger to fit my big hands.

[Richard Madden]

I too have used ash, sometimes old baseball bats for handles. And certainly no need for gloves...at least not because the handle is ash. I'm pretty sure some of the top brand chisels come with ash handles. Copper pipe or couplers work fine for ferrules

[Jake Helmboldt]

Sorby handles are ash, as are Crown Pro PM among others. Ash is an open grain wood, but it doesn't have the same feel and texture as oak and can take a nice finish. Heavy, stable and shock resistant too.

Any brass or copper pipe or fitting can be used as a ferule, just make sure you have 1/8" to 1/4" of wood between the tool and the ferule (thicker for bigger tools). I generally drill at the same size and use a little wood glue both to lube it, but also bond it in. I have never had one come loose. 1/32 or even 1/64 over will give you a little room to play with. No need for epoxy if it is a tight fit. Also, Richard Raffan shows a neat technique to seat the tool in the handle; shove the tool in as far as you can and then bang on the end of the handle with a mallet (while holding onto the handle, tool not resting on a table or bench). Doesn't seem logical that it would work, and he even acknowledges that. But indeed, it works like a charm.

Also make sure it is dry when you turn it, otherwise it will shrink and come loose.

[Reed Gray]

I have used ash, hickory, myrtle, madrone, maple, walnut, and probably several others as well. Most have been sanded, and some have been finished. All feel comfortable in my hands now that I have refined my style of handle, a straight cylinder. If you have a 5/8 inch shaft, you should have about a 1 inch inside diameter ferrule. For 1/2 inch, I use the same, but 3/4 is kind of minimal, but then, I am kind of a cave man turner, heavy handed, and like things over built. The ferrules are a necessity. You have a fulcrum point where the tool goes into the wood. With out any reinforcement, the first catch, heavy cut, or extending out too far off the tool rest, and the handle will split. Dave Ellsworth took a green piece, cut it oval shaped, turned a bit of a recess on the end and very tightly did a couple of wraps of heavy nylon twine around it and chased that with super glue.

I drill the hole to size. Do clear the chips often (every 1/2 inch for a 1/2 inch drill bit) or the bit will wander off course. Straight twist bits won't wander as far off as Forstner bits will. I do not finish turn or sand or polish the butt end of my handles, and use a mallet or pound it, butt end of the handle first, onto a 12 lb. sledge or directly over a very sturdy firm table leg. It works on action/reaction, pound the handle, and the gouge pounds back in the opposite direction, into the hole. I have used that to set hammer heads for years, especially during dry season when the handles shrink, which is a lot here in the Pacific North Wet.

I do get the ferrule to just barely fit over the top part of the gouge, and then very gently taper it larger to the handle. I have used router wrenches, large adjustable wrenches, and holes in strong boards to pound/persuade them into place. I do site the part where the ferrule will fit along the ways of the lathe to see how straight it is. Most of the time the ferrule is the last thing to go on. I do like brass pipe sections, about 1/8 inch thick (hey, I said I like things over built.

Anyway, you will like your own best.

robo hippy

[Robert Henrickson]

I do get the ferrule to just barely fit over the top part of the gouge, and then very gently taper it larger to the handle. I have used router wrenches, large adjustable wrenches, and holes in strong boards to pound/persuade them into place. I do site the part where the ferrule will fit along the ways of the lathe to see how straight it is. Most of the time the ferrule is the last thing to go on. I do like brass pipe sections, about 1/8 inch thick (hey, I said I like things over built.
robo hippy

I've used a pipe clamp to push the ferrule down onto the handle.

[Prashun Patel]

On Thompson's website, there's nice instructions for making handles.
I turned the tenon for the ferrule a hair thick, and then put the ferrule on and then turn it upside down on the floor and mallet the back of the handle. The sharp ferrule rives the tenon for a snug fit. I do that b4 drilling the hole and fitting the tool. Not sure if that's standard, but my handles have held up fine.

[Tim Rinehart]

I size holes in handle to be size to size with the tang of the tool...and then I grind a small flat on one or more sides of the part of the tool to be in the handle. ( usually run 4 sides very quickly across my high speed grinder) The flat doesn't have to be very big (1/8" across on a 1/2" diam tool for example), but it will allow use of epoxy to prevent rotation of the tool in event of a catch...but the big plus is that having the flat allows air and excess epoxy to escape out and not create a solid air pocket. Having to beat the tool in to overcome an air pocket seems rife with possibility to cause the wood to possibly crack along the area that needs to remain solid. IMO.

[John Keeton]

I normally create a small indent where the ferrule tenon shoulders against the handle stock. That provides a place for the compressed/riven wood to rest, permitting the ferrule to meet up with the shoulder snug.

The link below is a short tutorial on how I made a gouge handle. Not intended to be gospel, but you may benefit from it - or not?!?

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?164807-A-handle-for-the-HOG-a-short-tutorial/page2

[Reed Gray]

Hmmm, I may have to think about the pipe clamp idea. Main problem I can anticipate is how do you press on both or all sides at once? 2 clamps? Clamp with special hole through it for fitting all the way over the edges of the ferrule?

robo hippy

[John Beaver]

You mean I'm not supposed to make my handles out of Oak??? I've always just used what I had laying around, (or glued something up) and I ended up with a bunch of 2x2 oak so I've been using that up. Works fine for me.

I too make the handle slightly large and long, use copper pipe for the ferrule, and drill out the bottom so I can add shot for balance and weight.

I don't see any need to make the hole 1/32 over the shaft size. I make them exact and just put a little CA glue in the hole before attaching. A lot of the manufacturers, like Sorby, do not even glue the shaft in.

[Robert Henrickson]

Hmmm, I may have to think about the pipe clamp idea. Main problem I can anticipate is how do you press on both or all sides at once? 2 clamps? Clamp with special hole through it for fitting all the way over the edges of the ferrule?

robo hippy

I'm talking about the clamps where one end piece is screwed onto the threaded end of a pipe, while the other slides/locks in place and you tighten with a crank. As long as the pipe is long enough, put the end of the handle against one end, the ferrule at the other and tighten. If it's in straight, the ferrule will 'slide' right into place.

[Paul Singer]

John

This tutorial should be in the start to finish thread. It is very good.

[Jim Laumann]

Here are some pics of the handle I made - not perfect - it has flaws, but for a tool handle - it will work.

Handle is wood (ash from my firewood pile), finish is Formby's semi-gloss tung oil - 6-7 coats.

I had some pith spots which were bad - filled them w/ wood filler (the dark brown spots), also a couple catches w/ the skew while I was doing the shaping.

The black ring was a expirement - didn't like it at first - but once the finish was on, it appealed more to me.

The last pick shows the cutter...

Jim 236626236628236627