I have another dumb question.

[Randall Clark]

When do you use "what" glue. Yellow wood glue, Titebond III, polyurethane/Gorilla snot glue, epoxy. What do you use on outdoor projects? What do you use on everyday indoor projects. When is the appropriate use for polyurethane glue. You helped me so much with my dumb ROS disks question, so I figure I ought to show my full range of ignorance.
Thanks in advance for your help.

[Jeff Duncan]

I use yellow glue for just about anything interior related. I use epoxy for some things which require excessively long glue up times. I have not yet found a good use for Poly glue, I personally hate the stuff and can usually find something else that will do the job just as well. I don't do exterior stuff so I'll leave that one to the others.

good luck,
jeffD

[Bill Huber]

I use Titebond III 95% of the time I also use Titebond Dark for woods like walnut you just can't see the glue line. I guess for me I just don't see a need to switch from one to the other, Titebond III works for everything so why switch.

[Don Jarvie]

I mainly use Titebond II and use Titebond III if I need a longer glue up time. Titebond makes a ton of varieties now.

[Jerry Thompson]

I use hide glue for inside projects. One can buy liquid hide glue by Tightbond at Woodcraft. Google hide glue and read about its attributes.

[Prashun Patel]

I use titebond II inside, and titebond III outside. However, I usually do outdoor furniture (the 3-4 pieces I've made) with screws as well.

I use epoxy for some chair joints or when I need really long open time. I also use it as a filler for knots and voids in slab work. For small or purely cosmetic filling, I don't mind using 5min set epoxy. But for structural, I use the slow set System 3 stuff.

I use CA for stabilizing cracks in turned pieces.

I don't use polyurethane glue.

[John Coloccia]

I usually use super glue on my fingers and Titebond on my shirt.

[Tim Boger]

I usually use super glue on my fingers and Titebond on my shirt.




To funny, we have much in common.
Tim

[Jim Matthews]

I use Tobasco on my fingers, typically just before inserting contact lenses.

I use Tightbond III, indoors and out.
My garden bench is entirely assembled with TBIII - four month's outdoors, no delaminations.

[Brian Kent]

Titebond II indoors, Titebond III for outdoors or indoors.

[Rich Engelhardt]

When is the appropriate use for polyurethane glueI opened a small bottle a couple years ago and closed it back up and stuck it on my desk. Once the air hit it, the humidity must have activated it. The stuff cured hard in the bottle and has a big semi goo - semi bubble of air in the center. I cut the plastic bottle away from it and use it as a paper weight.

Having once used the smelly. messy, God-awful stuff as an adhesive and vowing to never do so again - I believe the paper weight thingie is the most appropriate use for the stuff. It's rather on the expensive side for that though....

For general all around use, I use Titebond II.
I did score a couple bottles of Elmer's Waterproof PVA @ a closeout store though for about a buck apiece for a pint size.

For shop jigs, I use Elmer's School glue. It's cheap (free in most cases during the Fall going back to school sales) and holds as well as anything else for that purpose.

[Clint Baxter]

When is the appropriate use for polyurethane glue.

Polyurehane works well for bonding dissimilar items such as plastic or metal to wood. Works well for gluing tubes into blanks for pen turning. I also use it for gluing PVC trim boards. Used to use it for building laminated fish net frames, but now primarily use Titebond III for that purpose. If it gets stiff, a quick shot in the microwave thins it nicely for use.

Clint

[Mark Roderick]

I use Titebond III for everything. I used Gorilla Glue for one outdoor project but that was before Titebond III.

[Stew Hagerty]

I usually use super glue on my fingers and Titebond on my shirt.

Hey, so do I

[Stew Hagerty]

I have several glues on by bench (and yes, I do have several glues ON my bench too).

My "go-to" glue is Titebond II Extend. It gives me plenty of open time to get everything in place and positioned just right before clamping.

If I want something to tack quick and dry fast, I use Gorilla yellow glue.

For outdoors I use Titebond III and for dark woods like walnut I use Titebond Dark.

For those "drippy spots" and hard to clamp small pieces and moldings I keep a bottle of Titebond Moldings on hand.

I do also have some Gorilla Poly that I use almost exclusively for bent laminations. Sitting right next to the Poly is a box of T-88 Epoxy.

Lastly, I have a dusty bottle of Titebond Melamine because I needed it once.

OH... I almost forgot; of course I have the obligatory bottle(s) of Super Glue.

[John Coloccia]

FWIW, I'm now using LMII's luthier glue and 192/251 strength hot hide glue on most of my joints. I use Titebond Extend when I need a bit of extra time, but not on critical joints, only because I believe the moisture resistance is not that great, but on large area glueups I don't think that matters much. In the past, I've used Titebond original and TB II for most things. I don't really use II anymore.

I use 5 minute epoxy around the shop for quicky fixtures and jigs. I use West epoxy for carbon fiber. I use CA (i.e. superglue) for plastic binding (I use the thick, put it in the channel and then tape down the binding). I mix CA and wood dust to fill the occasional nick or tearout on fingerboards. For wood binding, I've used both Titebond and superglue, but on my next wooden binding job plan on trying fish glue. For rosettes, I use Elmer's white glue, because someone showed me that and the long open time + clear drying are a slam dunk.

I also use CA to do drop fills on lacquer.

Were it that I did a lot of furniture work, at this point I would most likely use hot hide glue for most of it. I've seen enough old furniture that comes apart, despite the craftsman's best efforts, that I think there's something to be said for a glue that is easily repairable. On a process that took me more than a minute to get clamped up, I would very like choose resorcinol at this point. I would still use Titebond for edge joining boards as it's quick, convenient, and I rarely if ever see those kinds of joints come apart.

That's my glue manifesto for Summer 2012. I'm sure it will change by next year.