New pipe clamp pads fall apart after one glue up.

[Steve Griffin]

I ordered up 4 sets of my favorite pipe clamp stand-up pads from Grizzly, and did one glue up. They were not up to the task and cracked, split and some fell off the pipe clamps! Maybe the makers of this clamp pad tried to maximize profits by switching production to the gummy bear factory.

Here's a picture showing a few of these. In the back is a the same type pad which as been in use in my cabinet business non stop for 10 years. I have a dozen of these, and not a single failure.

Maybe it's coincidence, but I'm starting to feel like it's the 70's again, where poor quality products and lack of quality control was commonplace.

I'm posting mostly for the giggle value, but also hoping someone might suggest an alternative product for standard 3/4" pipe clamps.

I'll drop Grizzly a note too, suggesting they relabel them for one time use only.

[ray hampton]

it will be cheaply to use foam tape everytime that you use the clamps

[Dave Zellers]

I bought some Rockler pipe clamps and the ROCKLER! pads that 'go' with them and they split apart the same as yours. Pathetic.

I've given up on pads and always use a wood strip between the clamp and the edge being clamped.

[Van Huskey]

I've given up on pads and always use a wood strip between the clamp and the edge being clamped.

Although I almost never use pipe clamps anymore (haven't had issues with my parallel clamps) this is my solution for pipe clamps also.

[Larry Frank]

I cut some wooden pieces and with a groove the same width as the jaw and then hot melt glued them in place. They stay pretty good and are easy enough to replace. I made some extra stock so I would have it for replacements. However, whenever I need it, I can not find it.

[Steve Griffin]

Thanks guys,
Good ideas, though half the advantage to the pads I like is they provide a great, stable base and you have enough room to spin the crank on a table. Inserting a wood strip is something which would drive me nuts after so many years of not needing to do it.
(funny how small things matter when you do it for a living....)

[glenn bradley]

The direction they broke looks like the jaw was backed off while the pad had weight on it and wasn't allowed to move with the jaw? Seems like this would happen to any of the versions of these items I have seen now that I see the failure(?). Anyone have experience with other makes? What happens when you back the jaw off?

[Dave Zellers]

The problem is what they are made of. They are a vinyl type plastic that doesn't have enough give.

I have some old hard rubber clamp pads that will last forever because they are flexible.

[glenn bradley]

The problem is what they are made of. They are a vinyl type plastic that doesn't have enough give.

I have some old hard rubber clamp pads that will last forever because they are flexible.

Ah, that makes sense. They can flex enough to loosen the grip and remove the item being clamped, yes?

[Jamie Buxton]

Someplace I found a sheet of rubber about an eighth of an inch thick. I cut pads from it and gorilla-glued them to the clamping faces. I don't get the stand function you want, but at least the rubber never breaks.

[Chris Padilla]

McMaster-Carr carries rubber sheets of varying durometers as well as other materials.

[Kevin Bourque]

I always use wood strips myself, but have you considered gluing felt or leather strips to the clamps?

[John Nesmith]

I don't use pipe clamps much, but when I do, I use this kind of pad.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Pipe-Clamp-Pads-2-Pair-/G3551?utm_source=google&utm_medium=productlisting&utm_campaign=google%2Bproducts

They are sort of rubbery, so they don't crack. However, they don't have the "feet" that you like, and tend to fall off and disappear. I know I have fewer now that I originally did.

[daniel lane]

Forgive me, as I don't always appreciate it when others just tell me to make something when I am looking for a solution, but it seems that a little shop time would result in the marriage of wood strip and legs - just cut some blanks of similar shape out of wood and drill a hole through them - slide them over the pipe between the pads and hot glue one to each pad. You get wood between the clamp and the project, and can make them tall enough for your purposes.


daniel

[Carl Babel]

Asking for same forgiveness as Daniel, here are some shop solutions:
http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/tips/archive/2008/09/09/Pipe-Clamp-Pad-Stands.aspx
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/clamping/stay-put-stand-up-pipe-clamp-pads/
http://woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip011012sn.html
http://woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip011207ws.html
http://woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip030509wb.html

[Peter Quinn]

I'm guessing you could solve this problem with 2 hours time, a 2X2 sheet of 1/4" BB plywood and a little hot melt glue. Maybe even a piece of neoprene for the actual jaw face. i bought some thin neoprene sheet material cheap from a plumbing supply store that has proven most useful in a few wood working applications.

I really like the Rockler sure foot pipe clamps because they solve all the problems with the old adjustable clamp company variety, and I'm pretty sure I bought a pile of plastic clamp conversion pads with them so the jorgenson clamps I already had would be at the same elevation. I haven't had a problem with these but it seems another poster had the same issues as the Grizzly version. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10669&rrt=1 I bought these right when they came out, perhaps they have changed the formula since?

I almost always use a caul of some sort to spread the pressure and give additional protection to the edge of the glue up even with the pads. I had one very annoying experience where some sort of oil present in the clamp pads seemed to ooze out when pressure was applied and created a greasy stain on some cherry and maple that was impossible to remove or sand out. Strange but true.

[Peter Quinn]

You know, I'm staring at those pics and I'm thinking perhaps they just punched the holes a little too small, too snug a fit, so when you back up the screws with enough weight on the clamps the clamp jaw face moves but the pads can't, and they just pull through the plastic. I looked at mine and I swear the hole is a bit looser around the pipe. I suppose waxing the pipes around that area wouldn't hurt either. Still sucks that the old ones worked and the new ones break, but I wonder if they can't be made to work with a little tinkering, and I wonder if you couldn't get them replaced with a little complaining. I hear the bear is good like that?

[Steve Griffin]

I think I might try Peters idea--the primary problem is the stiff and plastic like new material, but I might contact cement these back together, enlarge the hole and try to be careful.

Failing that, it looks like making ply replicas of these might be just the ticket.

I do sometimes use cauls too, such as soft woods or thinner pieces BTW, but often just the pad is all that is needed.

Thanks for all the input guys!

[Steve Griffin]

Free customer service lesson for Grizzly:

When someone takes time to send your company an email alerting you to a faulty product, you should reply with a "thank you, we will look into it". Especially when that someone says they are not looking for a replacement, just wanting to help point out a product so defective it is a waste of time to sell.

But no, instead of doing that like a normal company, these guys just sent me an email suggesting I purchase pipe clamp pads for my new pipe clamps! I realize it's an automated email, but it's hilarious: they are actually are trying to sell me this garbage product again.

[Bill Edwards(2)]

You know, I'm staring at those pics and I'm thinking perhaps they just punched the holes a little too small, too snug a fit, so when you back up the screws with enough weight on the clamps the clamp jaw face moves but the pads can't, and they just pull through the plastic. I looked at mine and I swear the hole is a bit looser around the pipe. I suppose waxing the pipes around that area wouldn't hurt either. Still sucks that the old ones worked and the new ones break, but I wonder if they can't be made to work with a little tinkering, and I wonder if you couldn't get them replaced with a little complaining. I hear the bear is good like that?

+1 I may buy some and test this...:D

[Don Selke]

Made my own out of wood, drilled a hole in them and placed a rare earth magnet inside with epoxy. They work like a champ

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I'll drop Grizzly a note too, suggesting they relabel them for one time use only.

Did you eat yer spinach before you tightened them?

[Patrick Grady]

If you ever see one of those orange traffic cones discarded along the road, grab it because they make great clamp pads, outboard motor pads, vibration absorbing motor spacers, and work in many abrasion resistant applications. I'm not sure if they are neoprene, but it is UV , gas and oil resistant. It is tough stuff and compresses very little while providing some grip. It maintains flexibility in sub zero temps and is even paintable. Great stuff for the shop, boat, and construction.

[jim gossage]

If the jaw faces are steel, you can cut up the credit card style refrig magnets and use them as protectors

[Ronald Blue]

Those look like Jorgensen clamps. I use their pads with no issues. http://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-7456-Clamp-Pads/dp/B0035YI38E/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1340593721&sr=1-10&keywords=jorgenson+pipe+clamp