Wood prep question

[Steve Brannick]

My neighbor lost half a bradford pear tree that I am going to salvage, the question is do I need to split the larger stock and remove the pith or just seal the ends?

[Marty Eargle]

If I were you, I would cut an inch out from the pith of a log so that you're left with two blanks and a slab with the pith in it. Then seal the end. Even when sealed, leaving the pith in can be risky as well as slow down drying.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with Marty. I cut about 1/2" on either side of the pith to get me two blanks. Then I seal the ends with two coats of anchorseal.

[Donny Lawson]

Yep, what they said. Removal of the pith is important. Extra Anchorseal on the ends will help with any checking.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Steve - it has been my experience (never turned Pear though) that it is best to leave things in log form whenever possible and just seal the fresh cut ends. Then, when you plan on turning, cut what you need and reseal the end of the log. I also have found that any time you have exposed wood - it will dry faster than if it still had the bark on it. So, any cut/exposed wood should get some anchorseal as well - just to be on the safe side.

[Reed Gray]

If there are any cracks at all coming off the center of the log sections, they need to be cut ALL THE WAY OUT! The cracks will always get larger. On smaller sections, you can, most of the time, just make one cut down the center of the log. Sealing the ends is important to slow the drying out so the wood can 'adjust' to the drying stresses. Anchor seal works. I have found Thompson's Water Seal to work better than anything else I have tried. I now have some logs that I will be trying Titebond 2 on as I have heard that it works well. Keep the sections out of wind and sun. I store mine on the heavy vynal tarps that are used for big outdoor signs. On the ground, then wrap over the top of the logs. It will keep them for a while. The wood will look brighter if you turn it right away. Main reason is that it starts to degrade/turn to compost as soon as it starts to die, or is cut down. Pear is a wonderful wood to turn. Most of what I have seen is rather white/cream colored, but wonderful texture.

robo hippy

[Steve Brannick]

Thanks for all the input, will pickup some anchor seal next time I'm in Tulsa, or may just order some. For now will use latex paint, something is better than nothing.

[Thomas Canfield]

It cannot be said enough that the pith needs to be cut out of Bradford Pear or you will have cracks. Bernie gave good advice on cutting 1/2" outside the pith on each side. Cut the pith out of the pith slab and save the 2 sections of quarter sawn wood for spindle work. On very large diameter trunks, you can cut the pith even thicker and get some good wood for hollow forms. I have started to use 15% of diameter as a starting point for the cut out pith slab as a minimum on anything over about 6" D where I cut on pith center and then try to turn fairly soon, but all cut surfaces get sealed with Anchor Seal.