Mouting a Freud router to a aluminum plate with no pre-drilled holes.

[Philip Spencer]

I got a nice deal on a combo package with a FT3000VCE router and a RPT1000 table. Interestingly, the Freud router table does not come pre-drilled for a Freud router. So I have an aluminum plate with no holes and I need four holes for the router and the larger holes for the depth adjustment. My first problem is that I don't own a drill press, so, I am about to destroy the mounting plate trying to do this with a hand drill? Also, how do you drill the holes so that the mounting screws are recessed. If this were wood, I would use a countersink, but how do I accomplish this in aluminum? Thanks in advance.

[Alan Schwabacher]

You can countersink holes in aluminum just as you do in wood. But check your countersink, as some will chatter and leave ridges.

One way to accurately mark the plate for drilling is to cut pieces of threaded rod from a long machine screw, chuck each in a drill and spin it while you file its end to a point. Screw these into the base of the router, set the router on the plate, and push down. You will get a small dot exactly at the center of where you want to drill. Use a punch to deepen the mark, and drill with a regular twist bit, using a square to help keep the drill perpendicular. Then countersink the other side of the plate, since you marked the side where the router goes.

The other approach is to use a slightly oversized bit, to counterbore rather than countersink, and to use screws that have flat bottoms to their heads. This way you can adjust the precise location of the router, and you don't need to drill so precisely. The problem is that you must readjust each time you replace the router.

[Rich Engelhardt]

A fluted countersink will work in aluminum.
I've also used a cone shaped grinding stone chucked into a drill.

The router should have come with a mounting template.

If there isn't one, then you can download and print one from Freud:
http://www.freudtools.com/images/manuals/FT3000Template.pdf

[Curt Harms]

I've made a few circle cutting jigs and such for routers. As long as your Freud has a removable plastic sub-base, you could remove that, temporarily fasten it to the aluminum plate and use a vix type bit to mark holes in the aluminum then drill as you like. If you want to use guide bushings where being centered is critical, Alan's technique with counterboring is worth considering. You can get centering cones to chuck into the router when mounting such a plate to help center the router if you're so inclined.

Vix bit: http://www.amazon.com/HINGE-DRILL-Self-Center-Cabinet/dp/B000I39OLK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1338549184&sr=8-2

[Philip Spencer]

Many thanks for the advice. Looks like it is doable with the tools that I presently own (darn, was going to try and use this to get a drill press :) )

[Myk Rian]

One way to accurately mark the plate for drilling is to cut pieces of threaded rod from a long machine screw, chuck each in a drill and spin it while you file its end to a point. Screw these into the base of the router, set the router on the plate, and push down. You will get a small dot exactly at the center of where you want to drill. Use a punch to deepen the mark, and drill with a regular twist bit, using a square to help keep the drill perpendicular. Then countersink the other side of the plate, since you marked the side where the router goes.
That's how I do it. I'll put a 1/4" ID guide in the base, and a 1/4" rod in the router chuck. Makes it very easy to center it.
Light tapping with a hammer on the insert plate will help set the pointed screws.

[Mike Heidrick]

Many thanks for the advice. Looks like it is doable with the tools that I presently own (darn, was going to try and use this to get a drill press :) )

Absolutely do not do this without a drill press ;)

(You can pay me later)

[Chris Scimone]

Alans advice is good stuff. I've only drilled aluminum a few times, but I put a drop or two of machine oil down and go slow, seems to give me the best results. If any of the guys with real machining experience recommend differently, mock my answer and go with thiers.

And I totally agree with Mike H - you need a floor-mount multi-speed radial drill press to do this safely and efficiently.*

*At some point, I am going to ask on the hand tool forum 'Guys, do I need another Sandusky Tool Company smoother?' Be ready team - be ready.

[Jim Rimmer]

Take two pieces of scrap wood and glue/screw them together to make an L shape. Hold this against your bit as a guide to keep the drill and bit perpendicular.

[Mike Cutler]

You're going to need a drill press someday. Might as well be today.;)

[Richard Dragin]

A transfer punch set is inexpensive and the proper way to center the holes.

[Philip Spencer]

Decided to save myself a bout of high blood pressure and expletive laden rants, bought an inexpensive Ryobi drill press ($100 at HD) and the project went great. If I were more patient I would have trolled Craigslist for a higher quality drill press but the Ryobi performed admirably and was reasonably accurate, given what it is. My wife has even used it and thinks it was a great buy.