Stanley 71 1/2 & 181 planes

[Harold Burrell]

I don't know if this is the forum to post this or not (but I do know that you all will know the answer to my question).

I came across this ol' fellow in my area who sells old hand planes. He has HUNDREDS of them. I was looking at a #181 rabbeting plane and a #71 1/2 router. Both were in pretty decent condition (no real pitting or rusting) and would only require a minimum of cleanup. What would be a good price range for them?

[David Weaver]

How many irons are with the router plane?

Far as prices go, far and away the best way to figure it out on something that sells with regularity is to go to ebay and look over the last 10 or so that sold in "completed listings". We'll probably all guess between $25 and $60 or so depending on condition and what irons are with it, but ebay will give you a better idea.

What makes you want a 181? That's probably a plane I would leave on the rack because of the lack of a nicker, and because I don't see any benefit to it over the cheap and widely available #78.

[Tom Vanzant]

I just received a type 7 71 1/2 w/fence and screw, less blade for $23+. There was minor discoloration on the sole and minimal surface rust on the nut and screw. I placed an order for a pair of LV blades today.

[Harold Burrell]

How many irons are with the router plane?

Far as prices go, far and away the best way to figure it out on something that sells with regularity is to go to ebay and look over the last 10 or so that sold in "completed listings". We'll probably all guess between $25 and $60 or so depending on condition and what irons are with it, but ebay will give you a better idea.

What makes you want a 181? That's probably a plane I would leave on the rack because of the lack of a nicker, and because I don't see any benefit to it over the cheap and widely available #78.

1 iron with the router plane. However, if I'm not mistaken, I believe this 71 1/2 has a bronze body (if that makes a difference).

I think you're right about the 181. If for no other reason, it looks as if finding replacement blades is a bear.

Bottomline, I am looking for some sort of shoulder plane (or rabbet, etc.) to trim tenons and what else. If I could afford it I would just get a Veritas Medium Shoulder Plane and be done with it.

[David Weaver]

Yeah, you don't want a 181 then. You definitely want to hold out for a shoulder plane, I don't know of any that go cheap, but you can look for one that's cosmetically pretty bad.

[Harold Burrell]

You definitely want to hold out for a shoulder plane...

Is there one of the Stanleys that you would recommend?

[David Weaver]

Any shoulder plane that is square is fine, but for whatever reason, I just checked ebay for the vintage 92-94s, and they seem to be bringing a surprisingly large amount of money.

I wouldn't want to pay what they're asking for them. Cheapest I see is the new manufacture 92, and I have no idea if it's any good.

[Chris Griggs]

A router plane is great for trimming tenon cheeks and lots of other stuff. I'd say pick up that or some other router plane at a good price for cheeks and what-have-you, and until you can spring for or find a good deal on a decent shoulder plane use a chisel for shoulders.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Yeah, given the prices that used shoulder planes seem to go for, I would buy a new LN or LV, if you stumble across one cheap locally, go for it, but I've never been able to find an old one anywhere but the eBay and antique shops - both for two much.

I suppose there's the indian planes (like Garrett Wade sells) or the ShopFox ones, but I'd rather not deal with a poorly-machined shoulder plane.

I haven't plunked the cash down for one yet. I'd like one. I use my moving filletster for making rabbets, and a big ol' chisel for tuning them.

EDIT: I guess there's the modern Stanley shoulder planes in the sweetheart line - but last time I saw them, the prices where close enough I'd rather save another month and go with LV or LN, since I know they'll have my back if things don't look right.

[David Posey]

I would second Chris on the suggestion to use a router plane for fitting tenons. Shoulders are usually easy enough to do with a chisel. As others have said, I would be reluctant to spend the money on a shoulder plane without it being LV or LN. They all tend to be rather pricey, so it's best to invest in one that you know is properly machined.

If that router casting is bronze, it is almost certainly not a Stanley. It is much more likely that it is a copy made from a Stanley casting. That doesn't mean it won't work, as routers are just about the simplest plane there is, but it might leave streaks on your work. Just something to consider.

[James Taglienti]

If the routerplane is bronze, its probably a patternmakers copy. Nothing wrong with that, just make sure that it takes a normal stanley cutter and holds a setting, and the sole is machined close to flat. I use a copied router plane. I had to lap the sole before i used it though.

I havent used a brass or bronze tool yet that left streaks on wood.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

The bronze or brass depth stop on my moving filletser left streaks on the work when I first got it - if I keep it clean it's not a problem though - but if I let the bottom get oxidized, it leaves behind streaks.

[Jim Koepke]

1 iron with the router plane. However, if I'm not mistaken, I believe this 71 1/2 has a bronze body (if that makes a difference).

LEAVE THIS ON THE SHELF!

Stanley never made a bronze version of their router. These are usually the result of a pattern maker making their own casting from their original plane.

Maybe nice to look at, but may not be a good tool.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

As far as shoulder planes go, I am in agreement with others on this.

Save your money and buy one from LV or LN.

I have a Stanley #93 that works fine. It is from the 1920s and did take a little tuning to get it to work well.

I have tried the LN shoulder plane and it is a much better tool right out of the box.

jtk

[Bill Houghton]

LEAVE THIS ON THE SHELF!

Stanley never made a bronze version of their router. These are usually the result of a pattern maker making their own casting from their original plane.

Maybe nice to look at, but may not be a good tool.

jtk

Or, it may be an insanely fine tool; depends on the competence of the patternmaker.

[Jim Koepke]

Would you rather spend your money on the "real deal" or a might be?

jtk