I need some advice on a backsaw

[Tim Leo]

Specifically, where do I start to properly sharpen this saw? I won the bid on ebay for a 10-inch Henry Disston & Sons backsaw. The blade 10 inches long, about 2 inches tall, and 0.020 inches thick. The teeth were poorly sharpened previously, and I want to fix this saw up. The teeth have a set that makes the cut about 0.040 inches wide. That's a lot of set. In fact, the web between some of the teeth is ripped because the set is so great. Check out this photo.

Do I file all the teeth off and start over? or use a hammer to flatten the teeth? You can see that someone has used some bizarre sharpening techniques, and I would like to figure out a way to fix this saw.

tim

[Leif Hanson]

Well, you probably don't have to remove all of the teeth (it depends on how bad the ripped gullets are - they are the most serious problem) - but you should try remove as much of the ripped gullets as is feasible. If ripped really badly, re-toothing is definitely an option. I would joint the teeth down to where they are flats showing up on each tooth, then shape the teeth to where it seems right, and re-evaluate. If it looks like you should remove more then start over and joint the saw again, and reshape the teeth again, and re-evaluate.

Don't worry about the set, and there is no need to hammer the teeth flat again. Wait until you get the teeth re-shaped and the tears removed. Each time you file down a little ways, more of the set is removed through attrition. By the time you are through sharpening it, enough might have been removed so flattening them is unnecesary. If not, after sharpening - try stoning the teeth:

http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/ww/sawbasics/stoning.jpg

A file might work just as well. Take a light pass with the stone on each side, then make a test cut. Repeat this process until the set has been effectively removed to the point where it should be.

Subsequent sharpenings will slowly remove what's left of the previous owner's work until after a few, it won't show any more. Here's a couple saw sharpening primers, for some fun reading:

http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html

http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/ww/sawbasics/sharpeningsaws1.htm

http://members.brandx.net/websites/bbrode/woodwork/sharp.html

http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/Smalser_on_SharpeningHandsaws.htm

HTH
Leif

[Steve Wargo]

While I don't sharpen my own saws, there's a Father and son place locally that does an excellent job for me, I assure you you'll have to joint that blade. You'll have to flatten it untill all of the cracks are removed.

[Rick Whitehead]

Since there are cracks between the teeth, I would recommend that you have the saw retoothed. The easy way would be to have your local saw shop do it.
If you want to do it yourself, I would suggest that you file off all the teeth past the cracks. Then, recut the teeth and profile them crosscut or rip, depending on your preference.I usually use a hacksaw blade as a guide when recutting teeth, clamping it to the blade.
Hope this helps. It looks like an OK saw, and probably just needs a good sharpening.
Rick

[Chris Thompson]

If you don't feel up to it on your own, I can heartily recommend Steve Cooke at Cooke's Sharpening (http://www.cookessharpening.com/). I bought a Disston 10" backsaw on the auction-site-which-must-not-be named, and had the seller ship directly to Steve.

I told Steve it was coming and that I wanted "Whatever you think is best for dovetail work."

$25 later, including shipping to me from Steve, and I had a saw that cut through end grain like the proverbial hot knife through butter.

[Aaron Kline]

Chris,

I can give an Amen to that on Steve Cooke. He's a great guy and if you ever get a chance, stop in at his shop in York, PA. I was down there late last year. He's got all kinds of saws and he knows what he's doing. He taught me how to sharpen saws in 20 minutes. He also sells handsaws. http://www.cookessharpening.com/