Storage box for 2 LV routers

[Paul Saffold]

Pine box with sliding top and a drawer for extra blades and fence.

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Ripping DF drawer sides.
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OOPS! Measure once cut twice?

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1/4" M&T for drawer toggle.

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Tools used, plus table saw for hardboard drawer bottom.

[Paul Saffold]

More.
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Thanks for looking.

[Chris Griggs]

Very nice Paul. The drawer with the wooden latch is a really cool idea. Thanks for sharing!

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Very neat. As Chris said, I really like the little wooden latch, and the tapered pin thing holding the top on. . .

[Rob Lee]

Hi Paul!

Nice work! Like the French fitted bottom...

Make sure there's room in the drawer for just one more accessory, hmmm????

:)

Cheers -

Rob

[Chris Griggs]

Hi Paul!

Nice work! Like the French fitted bottom...

Make sure there's room in the drawer for just one more accessory, hmmm????

:)

Cheers -

Rob

Let me guess... you're going to make an adapter that will allow a Dremel tool to be mounted on the plane :p

[Jim Koepke]

Great box, I like the dovetail proportions on the end. It really pops out.

Every time it comes to mind to build a box for a tool I think of making it in a way that could become a drawer for a larger chest. This one looks like it could fit into that kind of service.

jtk

[Rob Lee]

Let me guess... you're going to make an adapter that will allow a Dremel tool to be mounted on the plane :p

Nope.... no free electrons involved.....

Something I've wanted for a year or two though. A bit specialised, but neat...

Cheers -

Rob

[David Weaver]

Hmmm...specialized from Canada.....must be a James Ready or Molson bottle holder attachment for the router plane.

zip zip (sound of a router plane in a dado groove)

sip sip ...

zip zip...

sip sip...

[Paul Saffold]

Thanks for the nice comments guys. I don't like practicing dovetails. I'd rather make something, even if they aren't great. I've found a little hide glue and sawdust (not sand dust) makes the gaps less obvious. Hopefully I'll get better.

Rob, let me guess: a twin laser for more accurate work?

[Jim Belair]

OK, I'll play. My guess is a vertical blade or blades to allow cutting and/or insetting banding.

[Chris Griggs]

OK, I'll play. My guess is a vertical blade or blades to allow cutting and/or insetting banding.

That's what I was kinda thinking too. I bet it is something to do with inlay.

[Rob Lee]

OK, I'll play. My guess is a vertical blade or blades to allow cutting and/or insetting banding.

Spoilsport.... :)

[Tom Vanzant]

Paul,
I have a 71 1/2 coming from the bay and you just gave me an idea on how to store/protect it.
Ditto on dovetails... just do them. Practice pieces are throw-aways.
Tom

[Maurice Metzger]

Nice! Great to see the in-progress pictures.

[Chris Griggs]

I don't like practicing dovetails. I'd rather make something, even if they aren't great.



Same here. Also, for some reason my dovetails in my projects always come out better than my practice dovetails anyway. Something about doing it in a project helps me focus on doing each step properly, and ultimately leads to better results and more overall skill improvement.

[Wallis Hampson]

Paul,

If i may ask, what are the aproximate outside dimension of the box? Its very nice!

[Paul Saffold]

Wallis,

I worked from the internal dimensions I needed of 5"W x 10 1/4" L x 4 1/2" H plus enough height for a drawer of 1 1/4".


But that changed when I realized my plan for using 1/2" ply for the drawer support wouldn't work very well. I wouldn't have any way to reach inside to adjust for side to side play or end stops for the drawer. So instead I glued a couple of runners after I had them fitted OK. It was a bit of trial and error. Then I glued the drawer end stops in. I ended up with a drawer 1" deep. So I had plenty of room for the extra blades and fence with a piece of the anti-corrosion matt. I got the anti-corrosion matt from LV and then later saw it in Lowe's.

The picture shows the runners, end stops and dado that I didn't use. That was after chopping (mortising) the stopped dado by hand. Oh well, it was a learning experience. Which is why I don't mind making things like this for the shop. If they end up being a bit cobbled up I may have learned something which will help when/if I make something for the house. Hopefully I can remember that long. One other thing I learned. Shellac will smudge the ink from a ball point pen. I sign and date stuff I make.

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So I had to go measure external dimensions. 6 1/2" W x 11 3/4" L x 8 1/2" H. Sorry if I rambled a bit. You got more than the dimensions you asked for.


Glad you liked it

[Wallis Hampson]

Thanks so much! Ive GOT to make one of those

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Hopefully I can remember that long. One other thing I learned. Shellac will smudge the ink from a ball point pen. I sign and date stuff I make.[/SIZE]


I've had this problem with a few things in the past - besides the obvious find a pen/finish combo that doesn't smudge, or use some other method (scratching, burning, branding, carving, etc.) the best thing I've found is spray the finish over the signature - I do a few a few light coats, misting it on thin and lightly. Never enough to really look too "wet" until it builds. When going by brush, I've had luck sort of almost dry brushing it on - taking the almost dry brush and tapping the end of the bristles. Again, the idea being to build the finish slowly so the ink doesn't sit in a lot of solvent, and to limit the physical rubbing against the ink.

I also try and sign over the intial seal coat; that way if it bleeds, I can hopefully clean it up without going to bare wood, and if it bleeds, it just sort of smudges and runs, and doesn't get all worked into the wood in different places.

[Gary Muto]

Hi Paul!

Nice work! Like the French fitted bottom...

Make sure there's room in the drawer for just one more accessory, hmmm????

:)

Cheers -

Rob

Can you please post the item # so I can just put it in my shopping cart now? ;)