Drill Press Recommendations

[Rich Riddle]

I am upgrading from an older Rockwell radial drill press and moving to a floor model. I am considering the Powermatic PM 1800, the Grizzly G7948, and the Jet JDP 17DX. Any opinions on the better one or any I might be overlooking? Thank you.

Rich

[richard poitras]

Delta 18-900L 18-inch Drill Press with Laser is the best bang for the buck as far as I am concerned. I have this press in my shop and am very happy with it. Do a search on the press’s you are looking at and the Delta will come out ahead in the reviews.
Good luck in your decision.

[Van Huskey]

Richard is correct the 18-900L is the best of the $1200 and below presses for woodwork.

[Rich Riddle]

If it would only go on sale. Right now it appears as though $949 is the price with you needing to purchase a fence system as well.

[Brian Kent]

Jet 20" - $999 with free shipping
http://www.amazon.com/354170-JDP-20MF-20-Inch-Floor-Drill/dp/B00004T9L1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338262999&sr=8-1

[Van Huskey]

If it would only go on sale. Right now it appears as though $949 is the price with you needing to purchase a fence system as well.

Tools-plus has it for 899 free shipping. I would NOT buy that fence, I would spend a little more and get a Lee Valley or Woodpecker table. Read Matt Meiser's (sp?) threads on the Delta.

[Michael W. Clark]

I bought the Delta 17-950L (16.5"). It has the same table as the 18-900L (which I like), and 3.5"+ of quill stroke. I like the depth adjustment better on the 18-900L and the extra quill stroke, but I didn't take the plunge for the extra money. You can often find the 17-950L on sale for $450 to $500. I made my own fence using 5/16" T-bolts to lock it to the T-slots in the table. I don't think you would go wrong with the 18-900L, but the 17-950L may be an option depending on how much you want to spend.

Mike

[Brad Patch]

I am upgrading from an older Rockwell radial drill press and moving to a floor model. I am considering the Powermatic PM 1800, the Grizzly G7948, and the Jet JDP 17DX. Any opinions on the better one or any I might be overlooking? Thank you.

Rich


Be cautious, be very cautious of import models. Speaking from personal experience, my import had 12 speeds and the speed change mechanism introduced vibration. The supplied chuck is junk. Table finish is coarsely ground and castings have sharp edges. The table tilt mechanism is secured with a hard to access course thread bolt, which makes holding a specific tilt difficult while securing the bolt . My import never could drill a deep hole without the bit wandering off center.

I finally replaced the import with an older model 15 inch Walker Turner which is superior in all respects.

Older model American made machinery is FAR superior to what is offered for sale today and comes up fairly regularly on various sites.

[Matt Meiser]

Tools-plus has it for 899 free shipping. I would NOT buy that fence, I would spend a little more and get a Lee Valley or Woodpecker table. Read Matt Meiser's (sp?) threads on the Delta.

I wouldn't heistate to buy the DP again despite Delta's post-sales woes. Odds are if something is going to go wrong with it, it will be out of the box. I did recently have a very minor problem with mine. The nut at the top of the spindle was loose allowing the pulley to slip. Not enough to do do any damage, but I had to tighten it up. Doing so is slight tricky since the spindle turns freely. I ended up smacking the wrench a couple times with a hammer and it seems to be tight enough. I was drilling steel with a 3/4" bit when this happened.

If they are still running rebates prepare to wait and wait. I raised a stink (actually I threatened to contact the atty general after they told me they only had one person doing rebates part time) and finally got mine.

I wouldn't buy the fence again. Its a nice fence but Delta doesn't offer any support for it so if you want two flip stops you have to buy a whole second fence. Shame on me for not checking into that first. What I'd buy instead is parts from Rockler--angle brackets, fence extrusion, and flip stops. Pretty much the exact same functionality, at the same price, but with two flip stops. I want two stops so I can set it up for drilling hinge pockets at the top and bottom of a door without having to change the setup.

[Gary R Katz]

Here's a nice used one:
http://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/tls/3037537873.html
With the money you save on the dp you can spend on gas driving cross country and get a free vacation on the Oregon Coast!
He also has other equipment for sale.

[John Coloccia]

The 18-900 is the only new woodworking drill press I would consider buying right now. If that were out of my price range, I would be looking for an older, used drill press. I'm still not thrilled out of my mind with the 18-900, and I especially hate that it's yet ANOTHER drill press without a stupid quill lock, but at least it appears as though they mostly leave the factory nice and tight.

[Rich Riddle]

Be cautious, be very cautious of import models. Speaking from personal experience, my import had 12 speeds and the speed change mechanism introduced vibration. The supplied chuck is junk. Table finish is coarsely ground and castings have sharp edges. The table tilt mechanism is secured with a hard to access course thread bolt, which makes holding a specific tilt difficult while securing the bolt . My import never could drill a deep hole without the bit wandering off center.

I finally replaced the import with an older model 15 inch Walker Turner which is superior in all respects.

Older model American made machinery is FAR superior to what is offered for sale today and comes up fairly regularly on various sites.
I am not opposed to OWWM machines that meet the requirements (which aren't many). I do want a table raising and lowering mechanism and the ability to end drill some longer material on the rare times it's needed. A tilting table is needed as is a variable speed feature. I am near Cincinnati, Ohio. There are a few used tool retailers in the area, but they simply over inflate the cost of tools they get through auctions.

[Rich Riddle]

I did happen to go to the Wood Craft today and look at the Delta and the Powermatic. Both had features I liked and disliked. I like the "feel: of the Powermatic controls but the quality seemed lower. You can read the Powermatic table positions much easier. The Delta quill works much better and has a longer stroke. You seem closer to the work with the Delta. The base of the Delta seems far superior to the Powermatic for stability. Neither were hooked to power and the employees said it wasn't allowed. Ultimately, the Delta seems superior and safer because of the base.

[Van Huskey]

You can tit and tat the PM vs Delta all day but the Delta just has better QC based on numerous reports on SMC and other forums. I am a PM fanboy and overall actually likt the PM better particularly on paper, but if you get a Monday or Friday machine you could be in for a "bumpy" ride. For ME the Delta wins on depth control (which is important because neither have a quill lock), quill stroke and table raising/lowering, the rest of the differences I either don't care or prefer the PM. The base is a non-issue to me, the PMs is plenty big enough (compare to most DPs) and if it isn't I will attach it to the floor (which ALL DPs really should be). My plan (unless I find a good price on a PM1200 <thats is a DRILL PRESS) I will likely get the Delta and outfit it with a good table, keyless chuck and set it up for variable speed (3ph motor & VFD), but I am really hoping I can find a good PM1200!

[Rich Riddle]

Van,

I have been looking through various ads on the internet for a PM1200. That might not be a good thing though since there is an active thread indicating you're a bad influence. Actually, they seem to be coming in the range of the new Delta and Powermatic presses. I agree that the winner will be a Delta between the two. I am split with tools, some Powermatic (141 & 143 Bandsaws, 719T Mortiser), some Delta (Unisaw, 1160 tilting table saw, 6 x 48 sander, and radial drill press), and some Jet (horizontal bandsaw, shaper, and jointer). There are a few European tools as well, like a Inca 259 table saw. Now I am pondering purchasing more. It's Van's fault.

The deal with the supreme commander is that she gets a garage bay, well actually two but that doesn't happen. Consequently, any tools I have need to be on wheels. The drill press will fall into that category as well.

[Van Huskey]

DPs are the last machine I want to make mobile so the Delta's base is much better for you. The PM1200 may not be a great choice since it is in the 700 pound range and not something I would want to move on a mobile base (not the weight but the high COG weight). The prices for a good PM1200 will be at least 1K unless you get a steal, but if you have ever seen one you know why (consider it weighs 3 times what the New PM and Delta weigh...) also with the split head it will be useable for the next 100 years. They aren't cheap but they are monsters, that said unless I get a deal on one I will probably get the Delta, well unless I get a deal on an Ellis or Clausing.

[Rich Riddle]

Folks sort of scared me away from the newer drill presses with the exception of the Delta. Looking at older variable speed models. does anyone have any preferences between the Delta 17-600 model or the Powermatic 1150A? The Powermatic 1200 looks as though it might be a tad too large for my needs. Thanks.

[Van Huskey]

I think the first question is is the 15" capacity of the 1150 enough or do you need/want the 17" capacity of the Delta, if the PM is too small then it is all moot. One thing to take note of with most older DPs and this is true for the PMs not 100% sure about all the Deltas but you had two (OK three but I rarely see the third) types of tables. The production table (rather large flat with no holes and a coolant trough) did not tilt BUT it had a rack and pinion raising mechanism, the tilting table obviously tilted, was smaller and did NOT have a raising rack and pinion, had holes for vices etc and onviously no cooant trough since it had holes, the table can be raised but it just slides and locks on the column. It is rare to see the production table on a 1150 and rare to see a tilting table on the 1200. I am not as familiar with the Delta 17-600 but the ones I have seen have a production table w/ rack and pinion.

BTW the third type of table PM called a utility table, small, no tilt and no rack and pinion, although I am sure they exist I have never seen one.

[Rich Riddle]

Van,

Here is the table on the Rockwell I am considering. Thank you for all that information; it proved very enlightening.

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/Rockwell.jpg

[Van Huskey]

Obviously, that is a tilting table with rack and pinion, from my point of view the best to build on for woodworking. The other issue with "old" presses is that they don't have large through holes or any holes in a production table, OK none that came from the factory, some now have lots of holes referred to as the "arc of shame". One has to build the aux table with this in mind.

[James Baker SD]

I have an old 1150 and I love it. Would not trade it for anything new. Cannot remember a time when it's 15" was a problem that would not have also been a problem for a 17".

James

[Rich Riddle]

And the winner is the Rockwell 17-600. After seeing all three in person there simply is no comparison. It took quite an endeavor to load it into the bed of the pickup. Any idea what this thing weighs? The photographs make it look small, but it's quite a bit more machine than either the new Delta or Powermatic that were under consideration. Thanks for those who steered me during the process. Here are a few pictures:

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/Rockwell2.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/Rockwell1-1.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/Rockwell3.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/Rockwell4.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/Rockwell-1.jpg

[Van Huskey]

I don't know the weight of that one off hand but a good guess would be in the 350-450 pound range but that is just a WAG.

[Rich Riddle]

Van,

Thanks. I am going to another website to try and find a manual. I paid $500 and believe it was a fair deal. Many people want closer to double that cost. It leaves a bit in the budget for things like a good chuck and the stop mechanism that seems frozen.

[Paul McGaha]

Liking that drill press Rich. Congratulations.

[Van Huskey]

Van,

Thanks. I am going to another website to try and find a manual. I paid $500 and believe it was a fair deal. Many people want closer to double that cost. It leaves a bit in the budget for things like a good chuck and the stop mechanism that seems frozen.

I haven't seen a manual on vintagemachinery (owwm) for Delta presses that new, just the older turtle tops, but I could be wrong.

[Rich Riddle]

I haven't seen a manual on vintagemachinery (owwm) for Delta presses that new, just the older turtle tops, but I could be wrong.
I downloaded the one for the older Delta turtle top. I am hoping that most of the internal characteristics are the same such as the chuck being a #2 MT design.

[Brad Patch]

And the winner is the Rockwell 17-600. After seeing all three in person there simply is no comparison. It took quite an endeavor to load it into the bed of the pickup. Any idea what this thing weighs? The photographs make it look small, but it's quite a bit more machine than either the new Delta or Powermatic that were under consideration. Thanks for those who steered me during the process. Here are a few pictures:

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/Rockwell2.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/Rockwell1-1.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/Rockwell3.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/Rockwell4.jpg
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/Rockwell-1.jpg

Glad you decided on that press, easily twice the machine for half the price of an import. My W/T drillpress is about 60 years old and has the original motor still going strong.

[Rich Riddle]

A gentleman provided a site that shows Morse Taper sizes; this has a #2 MT quill. Does anyone have a specific suggestion for a good #2 MT? I am looking at a Jacob's ball bearing 14N model at this time. Any other ideas?

[Van Huskey]

First, I want to say even with the availability of stuff down here I would have probably bought the planer and drill press at those prices and seriously considered the heavier lathe...

I plan to use one of these chucks http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/4030203/High_Precision_Keyless_Drill_Chucks

Now the Jacobs and certainly an Albrecht would be nice but they aren't cheap.

Do you plan to build or buy a table? I like the Lee Valley table for price/feature balance but Stumpy Nubs is doing a DP table (he may put the video up this weeked) that looks very interesting, it has a build in X/Y table and the way it is built (tall) prevents any worries with big forstner bits and the small through hole in the metal table.

[Rich Riddle]

Van,

I had not considered a keyless chuck and have never really used one on anything other than a hand drill. With the hand drill, they slip (although some keyed ones slip as well). Is there a way to tighten a keyless chuck enough on a drill press to prevent slippage?

[Van Huskey]

Van,

I had not considered a keyless chuck and have never really used one on anything other than a hand drill. With the hand drill, they slip (although some keyed ones slip as well). Is there a way to tighten a keyless chuck enough on a drill press to prevent slippage?

Keyless chucks work fine on a DP at least in my opinion, my experience is they are more likely to get stuck than slip. I have had trouble with hand drills but only with the cheap ones, the metal one on my Dewalt XPR or XRP whatever its called has been excellent. Then again part of my motivation is the fact that I have lost every chuck key I ever owned... This is what I would LOVE to have: http://www.uberchuck.com/albrecht-drill-chucks.html another things the Germans do really well.

[Jack Wilson50]

I have a keyless chuck on my PM, i have never had a problem with slippage.

[Matt Meiser]

Rich, do you know how to use a keyless chuck? :D

Seriously, I'm seriously not saying that to be offensive--I probably didn't learn until a year ago. I always use to spin the drill and grabbed the chuck. When I learned to grab both parts of the chuck and twist in opposite directions I was VERY surprised at how much tighter my chucks get. I don't think I've slipped a bit since.

[Rich Riddle]

Rich, do you know how to use a keyless chuck? :D

Seriously, I'm seriously not saying that to be offensive--I probably didn't learn until a year ago. I always use to spin the drill and grabbed the chuck. When I learned to grab both parts of the chuck and twist in opposite directions I was VERY surprised at how much tighter my chucks get. I don't think I've slipped a bit since.

Apparently I don't know how to use one since I am not quite sure what you mean by grabbing both parts of the chuck. I am open to a keyless one just like I was open to getting this OWWM drill press. Actually I am quite grateful someone recommended it.

[Matt Meiser]

Ok, I misspoke since I was thinking of my dp keyless. It has a ring that doesn't rotate and one that does. On my cordless drills theres just the one part. If you grab that and pull the trigger it will tighten. If you don't pull the trigger and instead tighten by hand it gets much tighter. This is true of my Milwaukee and Festool chucks.

[pat warner]

"Is there a way to tighten a keyless chuck enough on a drill press to prevent slippage?"

In my case, the belt shroud has been removed (not shown (http://patwarner.com/images/quill-stop.jpg)).
I grab the idler pulley and the Albrecht (x the toes) and tighten against each other.
Does it loosen? Never; it tightens, in fact, as the load increases.

[Rich Riddle]

"Is there a way to tighten a keyless chuck enough on a drill press to prevent slippage?"

In my case, the belt shroud has been removed (not shown (http://patwarner.com/images/quill-stop.jpg)).
I grab the idler pulley and the Albrecht (x the toes) and tighten against each other.
Does it loosen? Never; it tightens, in fact, as the load increases.

With what you, Van, and others said, I selected an Albrect model keyless chuck, a 1/32" to 1/2" model. Not the least expensive option, but hopefully a good tool. Thanks.

[Kevin W Johnson]

Ok, I misspoke since I was thinking of my dp keyless. It has a ring that doesn't rotate and one that does. On my cordless drills theres just the one part. If you grab that and pull the trigger it will tighten. If you don't pull the trigger and instead tighten by hand it gets much tighter. This is true of my Milwaukee and Festool chucks.

Are those single sleeve chucks? IMHO, single sleeve keyless are the best.

[Rich Riddle]

Do you plan to build or buy a table? I like the Lee Valley table for price/feature balance but Stumpy Nubs is doing a DP table (he may put the video up this weekend) that looks very interesting, it has a build in X/Y table and the way it is built (tall) prevents any worries with big Forstner bits and the small through hole in the metal table.
Now that the chuck is purchased, it's time to consider tables. I will look at Stumpy Nubs setup if it gets posted this weekend and also the Lee Valley table. A local store in this area also sells the Woodpecker tables. The only extra table I currently have is from the former Rockwell drill press.

[pat warner]

"Now that the chuck is purchased, it's time to consider tables."

If it's precision you're after, (& I'd assume that with an Albrecht), your best bet for wood, metal & plastic is cast Aluminum or steel.
One config. exploits the OEM casting (http://patwarner.com/images/drill_check_list.jpg). The surface (http://patwarner.com/images/drilling2.jpg) with fixturing.

[Van Huskey]

I must admit I would love to have Pat's table above!

[Kevin W Johnson]

I must admit I would love to have Pat's table above!


Yeah, I think that's a sale opportunity right there.... very nice indeed.

[Rich Riddle]

You know I have never seen one like that at Rockler. :(

[Kevin W Johnson]

You know I have never seen one like that at Rockler. :(


I can really see a market if the price can be kept within reason. I'd like to see more pictures that showcase the features of this table.

[Jerry Hillenburg]

Powermatic 1150 VS Drill Press Rebuild. HELP


Please note; I have reposted this on a new thread on the advice of a contributor and I am not smart enough to delete this one..



I bought a like new Powermatic 1150 VS serial #8615V167 in 1993 and it served me well until 2005 when the drive sheave assembly was damaged beyond repair because of a loose bolt. I patched it up and it runs, but I cannot adjust the speed and it is very noisy. It is not the most used machine in my shop, so for 7 years I have used it with no speed adjustment along with hearing protection. It does what I need it to do but it is not a joy to use.

I have decided to do something about it. I really was not interested in rebuilding so I went drill press shopping. There is NOTHING new out there under $1500 that can possibly compare to my 1150. The only advantage the new ones have over the 1150 is their table raising mechanisms. This DP has had very little use - it has had a gentle life in my cabinet shop. The way I see it I have to get interested in rebuilding and I have to come up with a table raising mechanism.

I believe my DP was born in 1986. Does anyone have a 1986 manuel?

According to a 1993 manuel, I will need a sliding sheave #2719069, fixed flange sheave #3719177 internal drive shaft #3144006 Where can I get these parts and instructions on how to install them?

Anyone have any ideas on how to fabricate a table raising mechanism?

Guys, your information and advise on this rebuild will be appreciated.

[ian maybury]

Hi Jerry. You probably know this, and I know nothing about US drill presses, but if you're headed down the rebuild road it's maybe worth checking for other stuff that hasn't failed per se - but which is perhaps worn enough to significantly reduce accuracy. Hard experience suggests that the best rebuilds are those that address the entire machine and return a bit of kit to more or less 'as new'. That way there's not other stuff left lurking to cause hassle and frustration down the road.

Some stuff is such that it's not economically possible to replace or refurbish what wears because they comprise too large a part of the cost of the machine. It may still be worth rebuilding, but the cost/benefit versus another machine then needs thinking through.

ian

[Matt Meiser]

Jerry, I'd ask a moderator to split this off as a separate thread where it might get more attention.

I'm assuming you've contacted Powermatic about the parts you need? If they no longer have them, you can also try Redmond Machinery, BUT, be persistent. I tried contacting them about some parts and never could get a response to email or voicemail. Someone (Van I think) said that only one person there knows what they've got.

You might also try registering over at OWWM.org/OWWM.com and see if there's someone knowledgeable on that machine. You'll probably find a manual as well, but I doubt you'll find any kind of repair manual. I've never seen anything like that for machinery.

For a table-raiser, you might check the old documentation at OWWM and see if there was ever an option. If there was you might be able to find one with a classified posting, but be prepared for sticker shock. Others have made counterweight attachments or build raisers from trailer jacks. This was one of the bigger complaints I had with a vintage drill press I owned that led me to purchase the Delta 18-900L early this year.

There's no "perfect" drill press as far as I can tell, but you've got one of the ones that's pretty darn close. Its definitely worth some work. Cool storage system by the way!

[Van Huskey]

I replied in the other thread and included the Redmond info, but just in the event this comes up in someones search someday and the other one doesn't you want to get in touch with Scott, not Scotty which is his son (there are three generations working there). If you leave a message and don't get a call back, talk to receptionist (far more than that in real life) and be very nice to her, she can get ANYTHING done, I THINK her name is Connie but don't call her that since names blend together for me. One thing I really like about here is she usually doesn't put you on hold if she is looking something up, she will actually humonce in a while, so it is like elevator music, makes me smile every time. Bottom line these folks are busy and they are often out of the "office".

[Kevin Gregoire]

i would like a powermatic just for the sheer beefiness of it and to match my bandsaw.
but i absolutely love the table on the new delta's, tilting in all four directions is just to cool.