chipbreaker

[Noah Wagener]

do you round chip breakers to match rounded blade in scrub plane setup?

[Cliff Ober]

do you round chip breakers to match rounded blade in scrub plane setup?

There is no chip breaker on a scrub plane.

[Jim Koepke]

do you round chip breakers to match rounded blade in scrub plane setup?

If it is something like a #5 being used as a scrub plane, likely not.

One purpose of setting the chip breaker close to the edge is to lessen chatter and tear out.

This usually is not a worry with a scrub plane.

Just set the breaker back far enough to not intrude on the curvature of the cutting edge.

jtk

[David Posey]

If you are speaking of using something like a No. 5 in that role, then no, I would not camber the chip breaker. The iron should remain rigid enough with it set back far enough to not get in the way. And yes, I do realize it is not actually breaking chips in this case.

[Mark Dorman]

if your using a #5 with a heavy camber for a scrub there is no need to match the camber because it's for course work. IMO

[Noah Wagener]

Thanks guys. Yes i am using a #5 as a scrub plane. the chips are so big i think they have enough body to tear out a lot leaving more rough planing to do. I dont plane at an anlge like i've read you're supposed to do though. I'll try doing that.

[steven c newman]

233151While this is not a#5 ( it takes two of these to equeal ONE #5) it is shown at the correct angle of attack for a scrub plane. This one has no chip breaker, just a "lever cap" thingy. I did follow up with a #5, AT the diagonal to get rid of the "scoops' that little beast leaves behind. Diagonal both ways, and then a second #5 ( without a cambered iron) with the grain. Follow up with a #4 smoother. wood in the picture is Beech, 2x6, that is now the "chop' of my leg vise.

[David Weaver]

Thanks guys. Yes i am using a #5 as a scrub plane. the chips are so big i think they have enough body to tear out a lot leaving more rough planing to do. I dont plane at an anlge like i've read you're supposed to do though. I'll try doing that.

To the extent you can, try to scrub with or across grain to minimize tearout (if it's bothering you). I don't think you can set the cap iron close enough to the edge to do anything, but you could try, I suppose. If your cap iron is tight at the corners or even overlapping a little, that shouldn't matter, because you likely won't take a cut where it's tight to the edge, anyway.

But I've never concerned myself with it, because it doesn't help directly across the grain, and it doesn't do much in straight grain where you can plane downhill.

[Tony Shea]

To re-iterate what has been said, do not shape the chipbreaker to the heavy camber of your #5. If you were to round the chipbreaker it would be very difficult to have the edges of the breaker sit tight against the face of the iron due to the bent front edge of most chipbreakers. Im sure it is doable but not neccessary.

Just hold the chipbreaker far enough back to not be in the way while still adding some strength to the iron to help prevent chatter. Which I do believe to be an issue when using a #5 as a scrub, especially once the iron starts to get a bit dull.

To cut down on the tearout I would start by taking a smaller bite out of the wood, within reason. Also, planing towards the direction of the grain does help.

[Noah Wagener]

what about rough planing knotty stuff like construction lumber which i was i work with mostly? I just planed some maple for the first time and see all your points about tearout at the early stage not being a big deal. When i plane the spruce/pine/fir 2x4s that are very dry i get tearout sometimes an eighth inch thick making the board actual in less of a plane then when i started as the whole board will now have to be planed down an eighth.

[Chris Fournier]

Scrub planes work every which way. I use them with the grain, perpendicular to the grain and at a 45 degree bias. If you are getting too much tear out take a bit less depth.

[Chris Vandiver]

what about rough planing knotty stuff like construction lumber which i was i work with mostly? I just planed some maple for the first time and see all your points about tearout at the early stage not being a big deal. When i plane the spruce/pine/fir 2x4s that are very dry i get tearout sometimes an eighth inch thick making the board actual in less of a plane then when i started as the whole board will now have to be planed down an eighth.


Plane accross the grain(or at a 45deg angle)use a very sharp iron and adjust the depth accordingly. You should have no tearout on the spruce/pine/fir. Dampen the knots with a wet rag soaked in hot water(just dampen not soak the knot and immediate area around the knot). This will tighten the grain around the knot and soften the knot a tad, making planing easier and with less tendency to tearout.