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View Full Version : I cut the hole too big for my plungelift



Tim Morton
04-02-2005, 1:46 PM
I did not pay close enough attention and now my hole is large enough to let the plate move a tad more than "just barely". Is there a solution? I'm trying not to let this ruin my weekend. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: i know none of you would ever do something so stupid, but you must have heard of others doing this.

Mark Singer
04-02-2005, 1:53 PM
I can't quite picture it. but, I think I would find a piece of aluminium which is say an 8th by 1/2" ...drill holes on the side and install in the opening next to the plate. Home Depot or a local hardware store has aluminium trim..That way it will look like part of the lift

Bruce Page
04-02-2005, 1:55 PM
Tim, I hate it when that happens!

You could glue some shims in the cutout or install some set screws into the cutout edge, sort of like they do on some miter gauges for adjustment.

Tim Morton
04-02-2005, 2:13 PM
Thanks...I have some melamine edge tape. Once around the block, plus an extra thickness on one end is just enough to snug it in perfect. I just don't know if it will be durable enough. I think if I can get it the right tool to heat it up in the corners i will be OK. I don't think my wifes steam iron will do the trick. I'm off to the hardware store to look for a solution. :mad: :mad:

Tom Hintz
04-02-2005, 2:14 PM
Tim,
Sorry you had the problem! I wish I could say I never do such things but my Mother hates it when I lie like that.
A regular visitor of my site did something similar and made a remarkable recovery by routing the hole a full inch oversize (on each side), making an oak insert that was wide enough to close the opening smaller than needed and then re-routed the correct opening. It looks spectacular, kind of an inlaid router opening. I actually looks like he was just showing off, not covering up a mistake.
Anyway, it's an option if the base material is worth working a little to save.
Good luck!

Tim Morton
04-02-2005, 3:26 PM
Other than the nasty jagged cut i got from trimming the melamine, adding the tape seems to have solved the problem. The fit is not perfect, and if the meamine stays glued down it should be done. Now i will move on to see how I can screw up the drawers. I have determined that WW'ing is a lot like golf...just when you think you can cut a straight line...BAM...you slice it into the woods for the rest of the day.

John Lucas
04-02-2005, 3:31 PM
I don't think my wifes steam iron
Tim,
It probably would do quite well. Now let's talk basics: "FAULT". YOu did not make a wrong measurement. You carefully built-in expansion perimeter, what many of us often forget. You are way ahead. Nice going. Now, seriously for a moment. When you finsh with the fix, just work extra to get the surface patch very smooth so that your work will glide over it.

Tim Morton
04-02-2005, 3:52 PM
Tim,
It probably would do quite well. Now let's talk basics: "FAULT". YOu did not make a wrong measurement. You carefully built-in expansion perimeter, what many of us often forget. You are way ahead. Nice going. Now, seriously for a moment. When you finsh with the fix, just work extra to get the surface patch very smooth so that your work will glide over it

I meant to say "my wifes GOOD steam iron"...she has the PM66 of steam irons...I needed to find her back up, which ended up to work out pretty good. I thought about the "I cut it perfect the first time in order to trim it out in matching melamine...but I thought that would sound a little transparent. :D As for carefully trimming it out...thats how I got the cut :mad:

Bill Lewis
04-02-2005, 5:00 PM
Tim, I did the same thing with my first home-made router table, and I also used the malamine tape for a shim.

If that doesn't work to your satisfaction, you could always drill and tap the edge of the plate, 2 places, on 2 edges, and put in a 1/2" long #4 set screw to act like gib screws.

Dave Falkenstein
04-02-2005, 8:27 PM
One way to make the hole the right size is to cut it even bigger, and then line the hole on all four sides with hardwood. Then recut the opening and rabbet for the plate. Hardwood will hold up better than most top materials, and it looks cool too. Another tip - use small, flat head screws where the plate levelers and horizontal spring/ball gizmos contact the opening. The wood will dent and the plate will need readjustijng without the screws.