Finish for a Wood Butcher Block Top

[Danny Hamsley]

I made a simple kitchen island work table for my daughter's college apartment. I used wormy (ambrosia beetle riddled) white oak for the table. I am planning to use 100% odorless, tasteless mineral oil to finifh the top. I have never used it before, but I read that adding beeswax to the mineral oil is a good idea. Here is a pic of the table.

The table will set against a wall and be used to store stuff like bread, etc., and the slatted bottom shelf is for stuff like onions and potatoes. The top will not be used as a cutting board,although it will be a work surface for a cutting board, so that makes the ambrosia beetle holes less problematic when it comes to keeping it clean.

So, my question is about the value of adding or not adding beeswax to the mineral for the finish. Does it make a big difference and influence how the oil dries?

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[John Coloccia]

Personally, I would fill in those holes with epoxy first. It's as simple as wiping the epoxy on, hitting with a hair dryer to thin it out and get it into the holes, and then squeegee it off and sand back to the wood. I think the first time you spill something, like tomato sauce, for example, you'll be happy you don't have holes all over the place.

[Howard Acheson]

An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.

Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.

[Ted Calver]

Watco has a butcher block finish that I have used with good results. I got it from Lowe's. When the tops got ragged from use, then I used the oil/beeswax combo to freshen them up. Works great.

[Tom Scott]

Personally, if it will not be used as a butcher block then I would use a more durable finish such as an oil varnish blend. At the very least I would use it for the base where food will be stored to prevent the possibility of staining.

[Danny Hamsley]

Tom,

I did just as you suggested on the base. I used a Danish oil (oil/varnish blend) on the carcass and the lower shelf. I have not done the top yet waiting on feedback from this Forum.

[Scott Holmes]

If it will not be used as a cuttingboard; I would go with an oil/vanish blend so it wont stain or need any up keep.

[Danny Hamsley]

Thanks for all the replies. After thinking about it, I figured that she may as well use it as a cutting board if she wants to since it is a simple piece and it may as well be utilitarian, so I opted for wax dissolved in 100% mineral oil. I will take a pic when it get it finished finished.

[Scott Holmes]

Get her a bottle of the left over oil/wax mix so she can recoat whenever it needs it.

[Danny Hamsley]

Excellent suggestion. I put on a very heavy coat and let it sit for 12 hours. I then re-coated and it has sat for another 12 hours. The wax in the oil gives it a great feel.

[Danny Hamsley]

Here is a pic of the finished piece. The oil and wax really popped the grain of the wormy white oak. Sometimes simple is the best way to go.