Old vs new 14" bandsaw tensioning mechanics

[Jack Gaskins]

I have a 14' Grizzly G0555 that is 9 years old and I have had nothing but problems with the tensioning on this machine since day one. I am getting rid of it soon. I want a 14-17" bandsaw that has a solid history of a good tensioning mechanism. When looking at old arn bandsaws like the 40s and 50s Walker Turners I see a big difference in the tensioning mechanisms versa what the current day 14' saws have like on my Grizzly. Do the old saws have better tensioning mechanisms? The whole thing about tensioning for me is fighting that dang little knob at the top, always hard to turn and then the spring would always almost bottom out before the tension would get close to being of any use. It appears that on the old saws the handels are metal, large and some have a vertical handel on the wheel and it appears to be a beefier build that is built into the frame of the saw.

Just trying to decide if I should search for an old 40s to 60s saw or just order another Grizzly which I am hesitant due to my current saws issues. Do not need a TOP of the Line bandsaw, just using it for general purpose sawing, squaring, scrolling, rounding bowl blanks. But the one most important item to me is the bandsaw needs to have the ability to tension the dang blade efficently with ease.

Thanks, Jack.

[Van Huskey]

The WT and particularly the powermatic PM141 14" bandsaws had serious tension mechanisms if you are looking for an old saw I prefer the 141 since it doesn't have the quirky issues the WTs have with odd size bearings and general lack of parts availability, though most sellers of 141s are rightfully proud of their saws, getting a good one in solid running condition will usually run you more than a new Grizzly. Be aware the WT and PM neither accept a riser so you are stuck with the stock height under guides BUT they don't go all pasta flexy on you.
All the Deltas and their clones (regardless of vintage) suffer in the area of tensioning the spine flexes and the tracking arm is a very weak point in the saw and particularly in the older imports the spring was woefully inadequate. If you are just having issues with turning the hand wheel there are numerous accessories from Carter, Iturra, Highland etc along with a good old rachet that will reduce the suffering, that along with some grease that is. The spring can be replaced, Carter makes one but I prefer the Iturra ones. BUT if you increase the spring rate with a newer high tension spring you must pay attention you don't bend/break the tracking arm, Iturra makes and upgraded one for the Deltas and was working on one for the imports, you would have to call to see if it is available, I think a couple of years ago he was charging $45 for it.

You mention bowl blanks, that usually leads me to think you need more than 6" of resaw height but 12 will probably due since you don't have more than that with the Grizzly. I would first consider upgrading what you have if you think the "fixes" I mention will get you where you want to be. If you feel you need a more substantial saw the best value for what I think you want/need is the 513 series Grizzly or the 14" Rikon Deluxe when it is on sale at Woodcraft. If your desires and budget move up then the equation becomes more complex.

In the end if the power and capacity of the G0555 have been enough for you good blades, something to make the physical act of tensioning easier, a new or high tension spring and maybe the upgraded tracking arm if Louis is selling them may be all you need. Then again a fully new machine would be great whether it be a used or new one. Just as an FYI a friend of mine just got a VERY clean used Agazzani 18" saw with a BUNCH of new blades including more than one carbide one for just a tiny bit more than a Grizzly 513 shipped, so the deals are out there you just have to dig.

[Van Huskey]

Depending on how far you are from Stryker OH (google tells me it is in North West OH. There is a 14" WT on OWWM classfieds for $500... On an Art Deco base too.

[Myk Rian]

Delta 14"haven't changed for 12,000 years.

[Jack Gaskins]

Thanks Van. I will look around for a while and see what I can come up with but that G0555 has to go.

[Van Huskey]

Thanks Van. I will look around for a while and see what I can come up with but that G0555 has to go.

Are you interested in a good used bandsaw, if so where in Indiana are you and I will keep my eye open for you.

[glenn bradley]

Just a less expensive idea . . . have you upgraded the spring (http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Coil-Bandsaw-Tension-Spring/dp/B002KA2SEY) on that thing? Like a ZCI on a tablesaw, a spring upgrade seems to almost be an expected add-on right off the bat for a 14" CI saw(?).

[Van Huskey]

Just a less expensive idea . . . have you upgraded the spring (http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Coil-Bandsaw-Tension-Spring/dp/B002KA2SEY) on that thing? Like a ZCI on a tablesaw, a spring upgrade seems to almost be an expected add-on right off the bat for a 14" CI saw(?).

I mentioned high spring rate spings but also cautioned against being too aggressive and bending/breaking those says weak point, the tracking arm. It seems the majority of those issues started to manifest themselves when higher spring rates started being stock (after a FWWing article regarding low spring pressure, it may have been a Duginski piece) and after market companies started making the replacement springs. Manufacturers used to have lower tension springs possibly to prevent just these issues.

[Bill White]

You didn't tell us what kind of blade you are using. Might be tryin' too big/wide. In my experience, 1/2" blades are about the max regardless of what the mfg. says.
Bill

[Van Huskey]

You didn't tell us what kind of blade you are using. Might be tryin' too big/wide. In my experience, 1/2" blades are about the max regardless of what the mfg. says.
Bill

Excellent point. We would need to know the material of the backer (carbon, high silicon, spring steel, carbide tipped) the width and the gauge (failing that the brand and all the other info you know) with that it will become clear if the blade is over the head of the saw. Now if you are having issues with 1/2 or 1/4 inch blades then chances are (unless it is a very thick gauge) it is indeed s saw issue.

[Jack Gaskins]

Are you interested in a good used bandsaw, if so where in Indiana are you and I will keep my eye open for you.

Indianapolis.

[Jack Gaskins]

Just a less expensive idea . . . have you upgraded the spring (http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Coil-Bandsaw-Tension-Spring/dp/B002KA2SEY) on that thing? Like a ZCI on a tablesaw, a spring upgrade seems to almost be an expected add-on right off the bat for a 14" CI saw(?).

I had a carter sping in it for a year and still couldnt get it to tension correctly. I put the old spring back in it. Im not going to touch another 14' BS again if they all have that same tensioning mechanism.

[Jack Gaskins]

You didn't tell us what kind of blade you are using. Might be tryin' too big/wide. In my experience, 1/2" blades are about the max regardless of what the mfg. says.
Bill
3/8ths wood slicer 4 tpi.

[Van Huskey]

3/8ths wood slicer 4 tpi.

Thin gauge 3/8th blade, shouldn't have been an issue BUT I didn't know Highland ever sold a 3/8", just 1/2" and 3/4" but I could be wrong.

All the Delta and Delta clone 14" cast saws have the same basic tensioning mechanism. For a 14" saw with a more solid tensioning mechanism you need to look to either used Walker-Turner 14" saws or the Powermatic 140/141 saws OR a new steel framed saw such as the Rikon or Laguna. Almost all 15" or larger saws have much more beefy tension mechanisms.

[Jack Gaskins]

Thin gauge 3/8th blade, shouldn't have been an issue BUT I didn't know Highland ever sold a 3/8", just 1/2" and 3/4" but I could be wrong.

All the Delta and Delta clone 14" cast saws have the same basic tensioning mechanism. For a 14" saw with a more solid tensioning mechanism you need to look to either used Walker-Turner 14" saws or the Powermatic 140/141 saws OR a new steel framed saw such as the Rikon or Laguna. Almost all 15" or larger saws have much more beefy tension mechanisms.

Well, unless one of the BS manufactures comes out with a new saw I will probably look at a RIkon 18". Their 16" looks pretty nice but to close in price to the 18".

[Van Huskey]

Well, unless one of the BS manufactures comes out with a new saw I will probably look at a RIkon 18". Their 16" looks pretty nice but to close in price to the 18".

At that price point the Rikon 16/18 and Grizzly 17/19 are the best buys, the Rikons go on sale several times a year at Woodcraft which is the best time to buy them.

[Chris Friesen]

The cast iron ones are probably all similar, the 14" sheet metal frame saws are a whole different design.

[Myk Rian]

Just a less expensive idea . . . have you upgraded the spring on that thing? Like a ZCI on a tablesaw, a spring upgrade seems to almost be an expected add-on right off the bat for a 14" CI saw(?).
I've never had to upgrade a spring on my Delta 14" saws. Never have had a problem tensioning a 1/2" blade. I view those springs as no more than a sales pitch for something not needed.



I had a carter sping in it for a year and still couldnt get it to tension correctly. I put the old spring back in it. Im not going to touch another 14' BS again if they all have that same tensioning mechanism.

Must be something you're doing wrong.

[Jack Wilson]

I didn't see it mentioned, possibly your blades are a too long?

[Ronald Blue]

If your up for a road trip here is a Powermatic 141 near St Louis. http://stlouis.craigslist.org/tls/3029682672.html

[Van Huskey]

If your up for a road trip here is a Powermatic 141 near St Louis. http://stlouis.craigslist.org/tls/3029682672.html

Actually a solid price for a solid and complete plug and play 141. Great saws (I have a soft spot for the Gumby saw) as long as you don't need over 6" of resaw. The weak spot is the trunnions but even they are better built than the Delta. Pictures of one of mine showing the upper wheel, though you really can't see how beefey the tension area is from this pic, I thought I had one with the wheel off but can't find it. The other pic of of the trunnions they are spread wide BUT stamped steel. I have never had an issue it just looks out of place with the rest of the saw.

[Rich Riddle]

I know of a Powermatic 141 in Northern Kentucky that will be up for sale in two weeks or so. The owner's nearly done restoring his Powermatic 143, and when it's complete, the 141 becomes redundant. It's just outside of Cincinnati.

[Ronald Blue]

Here is one a little closer for you. http://tippecanoe.craigslist.org/tls/2958181949.html

[Van Huskey]

Here is one a little closer for you. http://tippecanoe.craigslist.org/tls/2958181949.html


That one also has the stock fence which isn't great BUT you can sell it for 75-100 bucks to someone restoring one.