Bandsaw .... Gloat worthy?

[Tim Boger]

I have a small deposit holding this Jet Bandsaw for p/u this weekend. Selling price $800

Model JWBS-18 1.5hp

According to the seller, the saw has only been used for a few minutes to verify it runs. Still has the factory grease product on the table. It is several years old.

What do you think? Fair price?

Tim232744

[Clint Baxter]

I have the same saw with the 3hp motor and I like mine a lot. Paid over twice what you did though for that motor. Sounds like you done well. Can always throw on a bigger moto,r if desired, and still be dollars ahead over buying new. Clint

[Bill Huber]

You really suck

I think that is a hell of a price.

[Brian Kincaid]

Yeah that is a really nice find! You couldn't buy a Grizzly 17" for that price.
-Brian

[Van Huskey]

Good news is that is a very good price especially since it is essential brand new!

The bad news is that it is the older design before the introduction of the new triangle spine. All this means is you can't really use the saw at the upper end of the tension range, when it is tensioned near the upper limits the frame deflects more than it should (all frames deflect obviously) and causes the guide post to be out of line. Avoid compressing the spring more than 75-80% of its full travel and you shouldn't see this issue. Bottom line it won't properly tension as wide a blade as advertised. Not a big deal at all as long as you understand this limitation. I don't want to be a Debbie Downer, since you got a great deal, just want to make sure you don't over tension it and think you are doing something wrong.

[Tim Boger]

Good news is that is a very good price especially since it is essential brand new!

The bad news is that it is the older design before the introduction of the new triangle spine. All this means is you can't really use the saw at the upper end of the tension range, when it is tensioned near the upper limits the frame deflects more than it should (all frames deflect obviously) and causes the guide post to be out of line. Avoid compressing the spring more than 75-80% of its full travel and you shouldn't see this issue. Bottom line it won't properly tension as wide a blade as advertised. Not a big deal at all as long as you understand this limitation. I don't want to be a Debbie Downer, since you got a great deal, just want to make sure you don't over tension it and think you are doing something wrong.

Hey Van,

I appreciate the insight, I did not know about the tensioning limitations .... chances are I'll never need that demand from the tool, sure is nice to know these things. Thanks.

Unfortunately it did not have the "Quick Tensioning" feature that some of the Jet models have, I'll very likely be looking for that as accessory before to long. Do you have any recommendations on a quick tensioning system?

Tim

[Van Huskey]

Again I didn't say it to poo poo your choice or deal, just figured that bit of info might be useful.

The only saws where a quick release is an easy retrofit is the 14" Delta cast clones, I am not saying you couldn't spend some time with the newer Jet saw's parts catalog and come up with a parts list to do it but I think even IF it was feasible it likely would be very expensive. But, take a look at the mega-buck euro saws and the large Ameican built cast saws, not a quick release in sight. They have only recently come into vouge and AFAIK there are no non-Asian saws that have them. I am not saying it won't save a few seconds when you use the saw but they are far from necessary, I don't own nor have I ever owned a bandsaw with one and just don't see it as an issue.

[Tim Boger]

Again I didn't say it to poo poo your choice or deal, just figured that bit of info might be useful.

The only saws where a quick release is an easy retrofit is the 14" Delta cast clones, I am not saying you couldn't spend some time with the newer Jet saw's parts catalog and come up with a parts list to do it but I think even IF it was feasible it likely would be very expensive. But, take a look at the mega-buck euro saws and the large Ameican built cast saws, not a quick release in sight. They have only recently come into vouge and AFAIK there are no non-Asian saws that have them. I am not saying it won't save a few seconds when you use the saw but they are far from necessary, I don't own nor have I ever owned a bandsaw with one and just don't see it as an issue.

Do you agree with the recommendations to de-tension the blades when the machine will be idle for several days?

[Bill White]

Don't have your saw, but I ALways de-tension. Just a habit.
Bill

[Van Huskey]

Do you agree with the recommendations to de-tension the blades when the machine will be idle for several days?

Yes, no and maybe. It can be tough on the tires so I tend to drop the tension on my saws with high tension blades (carbide and bi-metal) on saws that I have narrow thus low tension blades on I don't bother and haven't flat spotted a tire yet. If you have one saw I say get in the habit of doing it every time just keep a good reference for the tension that works well for each of your blades so it is a non-issue to reset. It is easy for me to keep up with what saws I take tension off of and which I don't if I only had one saw I would be more likely to forget if I did with some blades and not with others.

[Bobby O'Neal]

Terrible price. Don't be a sucker. Forward me the seller's information and I will set them straight.

[Bruce Page]

Tim, my Minimax has the tensioning wheel like yours. It is not a big deal to tension & de-tension at all. I think you got a very good deal!
Congrats!

[Larry Gipson]

Hi Tim,

I have the exact same saw and paid the same price about a year ago - only mine wasn't nearly as well cared for. This is my first bandsaw. I've reconditioned it now and have built a little furniture with it (oak chairs). I've also tried resawing some large lumber that almost didn't fit in the saw. It seemed to work fine.

I've looked at the jwbs-18 construction and have compared it to the 18X and Qt models. The flex problems were real in this earlier model. If you look at the X, there are additional brackets in the boxes that reduce lateral flex. The spine is also much larger as are the supports on the outside of the top box. The Qt model has the same additional brackets in the boxes and on the outside of the top box for lateral flex, but the spine is now a triangle. My guess is the triangle construction took the weight out of the Qt model and reduced costs while keeping the flex the same. None of these saws are a Laguna or Aggazani, but they're perfectly fine for most cuts. They probably won't have the cut quality of the more expensive saws, but I guess that's what makes the great saws great. Push on the guides and see if they flex. Check how much flex there is when you add tension to the blade. Cut a board before you buy if possible.

I do take the tension off the blade when not in use and use Lenox bi-metal blades since watching Mark Duginske's video :-)

All bandsaws seem to have 2 different patterns in the cut. I hope someone corrects me if I'm wrong. First, there is a high frequency pattern that seems to be related to motor vibration and imperfections in the blade presentation to the wood. There's also an occasional gouge that occurs when you start and stop a cut or otherwise change feed pressure on the blade. I've been to both Laguna Tools and Eagle Tools (Aggazani) and have seen some of the finest saws demonstrated. They all seem to have this same pattern to some degree. The changing pressure on the blade (I believe) changes the relationship between the guides and the table (lateral flex) and this puts the gouge in the wood. The easier it is to flex the guides, the easier it will be to get the gouge. Any bandsaw experts here?

Regards,
Larry

[Tim Boger]

Hi Tim,

I have the exact same saw and paid the same price about a year ago - only mine wasn't nearly as well cared for. This is my first bandsaw. I've reconditioned it now and have built a little furniture with it (oak chairs). I've also tried resawing some large lumber that almost didn't fit in the saw. It seemed to work fine.

I've looked at the jwbs-18 construction and have compared it to the 18X and Qt models. The flex problems were real in this earlier model. If you look at the X, there are additional brackets in the boxes that reduce lateral flex. The spine is also much larger as are the supports on the outside of the top box. The Qt model has the same additional brackets in the boxes and on the outside of the top box for lateral flex, but the spine is now a triangle. My guess is the triangle construction took the weight out of the Qt model and reduced costs while keeping the flex the same. None of these saws are a Laguna or Aggazani, but they're perfectly fine for most cuts. They probably won't have the cut quality of the more expensive saws, but I guess that's what makes the great saws great. Push on the guides and see if they flex. Check how much flex there is when you add tension to the blade. Cut a board before you buy if possible.

I do take the tension off the blade when not in use and use Lenox bi-metal blades since watching Mark Duginske's video :-)

All bandsaws seem to have 2 different patterns in the cut. I hope someone corrects me if I'm wrong. First, there is a high frequency pattern that seems to be related to motor vibration and imperfections in the blade presentation to the wood. There's also an occasional gouge that occurs when you start and stop a cut or otherwise change feed pressure on the blade. I've been to both Laguna Tools and Eagle Tools (Aggazani) and have seen some of the finest saws demonstrated. They all seem to have this same pattern to some degree. The changing pressure on the blade (I believe) changes the relationship between the guides and the table (lateral flex) and this puts the gouge in the wood. The easier it is to flex the guides, the easier it will be to get the gouge. Any bandsaw experts here?

Regards,
Larry

A quick thanks to everyone who has contributed to this post, sure is a tremendous amount of experience here.

Chances are, had I waited I might have found a newer model saw with the improved designs .... however, I doubt that during the home hobbyist type of usage this tool will see that I'll ever sense it's limitations. I've learned that more often than not, poor performance from any tool should first be addressed while considering operator errors in technique, set up, demand and maintenance. If I manage to get all that correct I feel certain the new Jet will far exceed my expectations!

Tim

[Larry Gipson]

Tim,

I've just looked at the mobile base the saw's sitting on. I welded up something very similar, but added 4 leveling feet in the corners. This allows me to take the weight off the wheels when the saw is in use. It might be my imagination, but I believe this firm contact with the concrete helps to reduce vibration in the saw. The only source I've found for leveling feet is a store in Long Beach, Ca. They call themselves International Equipment Components, Inc. (I have no idea why.) By accident I found that Home Depot sells a little block of steel with the matching thread, normally used to connect to pieces of threaded rod. I welded 4 of these to the sides of the mobile base, threaded the leveling feet into place, then tack welded a nut on the top of the stem. Now I can use a battery operated drill to quickly operate the leveling feet. It's perfect for imperfect concrete.

Larry

[Van Huskey]

All bandsaws seem to have 2 different patterns in the cut. I hope someone corrects me if I'm wrong. First, there is a high frequency pattern that seems to be related to motor vibration and imperfections in the blade presentation to the wood. There's also an occasional gouge that occurs when you start and stop a cut or otherwise change feed pressure on the blade. I've been to both Laguna Tools and Eagle Tools (Aggazani) and have seen some of the finest saws demonstrated. They all seem to have this same pattern to some degree. The changing pressure on the blade (I believe) changes the relationship between the guides and the table (lateral flex) and this puts the gouge in the wood. The easier it is to flex the guides, the easier it will be to get the gouge. Any bandsaw experts here?

Regards,
Larry

You pretty much nailed the two "patterns" on the side of a resaw cut. The first tends to have more to do with the blade than the motor vibration. Blades with teeth set tend to be worse, blades with no set like a carbide blade have less, you also are seeing the harmonic vibration of the blade, some exhibit more, some less, the higher the tension the lower the amplitude and higher the frequency, variable tooth spacing blades tend to have lower amounts of this vibration (a design borrowed from metal cutting). The second "gouge" is indeed due to stopping and starting the feed or a significant change in the feed rate, good preperation for the cut and good technique reduce this, the way to eliminate this is with a power feeder. Reducing or leiminating these are nice but with decent technique and a good blade either of them can be quickly cleaned up, the easiest way is a drum or widebelt sander.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Tim, I have the same saw and I do believe in detensioning the saw when done for the day. My solution is decisively low tech: I put a reminder on the bandsaw and instructions on how many turns to tension the saw. Then I put a piece of blue painters tape on the tension knob so I can count the turns. Finally I use a magnet to know if the saw has been tensioned or not. If it has been tensioned I move the magnet to the side of the label in the direction of increasing tension. After I detension it I move the magnet back to the other side. At a glance I know if it is tensioned or not and I have a reminder of how many turns to get me where I need to go:

232884

[Tim Boger]

Tim, I have the same saw and I do believe in detensioning the saw when done for the day. My solution is decisively low tech: I put a reminder on the bandsaw and instructions on how many turns to tension the saw. Then I put a piece of blue painters tape on the tension knob so I can count the turns. Finally I use a magnet to know if the saw has been tensioned or not. If it has been tensioned I move the magnet to the side of the label in the direction of increasing tension. After I detension it I move the magnet back to the other side. At a glance I know if it is tensioned or not and I have a reminder of how many turns to get me where I need to go:

232884

Good Morning,

I like your method, simple and effective.

PM sent.

Thanks,
Tim

[Joseph Tarantino]

hello tim......here's my 18" jet BS:

232916

cost me $40 (no typo) on CL and i paid too much for it. get your deposit back and look elsewhere. IMHO, the saw is marginal, at best, and the WMH tool group (owners of jet, powermatic and wilton) are only interested in trading on the past reputation of their brands. their tech support capabilities are limited to sending out replacement parts for tools under warranty and little else. should you need any sort of technical suppoprt, you will be totally on your own. and as for their authorized dealer network, it's even more useless than the tech support. @ $800, that saw is seriously overpriced for the performance it will deliver to you. the rikon 10-325 that was recently reduced @ woodcraft is a better saw for about the same price with 13" of resaw rather than the jet's 10". just my $.02.

[Tim Boger]

hello tim......here's my 18" jet BS:

232916

cost me $40 (no typo) on CL and i paid too much for it. get your deposit back and look elsewhere. IMHO, the saw is marginal, at best, and the WMH tool group (owners of jet, powermatic and wilton) are only interested in trading on the past reputation of their brands. their tech support capabilities are limited to sending out replacement parts for tools under warranty and little else. should you need any sort of technical suppoprt, you will be totally on your own. and as for their authorized dealer network, it's even more useless than the tech support. @ $800, that saw is seriously overpriced for the performance it will deliver to you. the rikon 10-325 that was recently reduced @ woodcraft is a better saw for about the same price with 13" of resaw rather than the jet's 10". just my $.02.

Thanks for your feedback, I appreciate it.

Tim

[Larry Gipson]

Hi Joseph,

I've found the Jet support fine for buying replacement parts both for this bandsaw and for the 15" planer. I also found that they are not honest when it comes to reporting issues with past equipment. They lied to me about the flex issues with this saw. It's gone through 2 major redesigns because of this issue and they guy maintained it didn't happen. Oh well. It is what it is. They're friendly when you need a part and get it out to you quickly.

I've read that the motor on this saw has no overload protection. If it gets too hot, it will just burn up. Anyone know anything about this? I was hoping the Baldor replacement for the Rikon would work if I got into problems.

Btw, the Rikon saw has way better bracing in the boxes than does even the latest Qt model of this saw. (I looked at the Rikon closely when I was at Eagle Tools.) It also has a direct replacement Baldor motor, so the Rikon might be a good option, but more money than Tim has committed to. I'd look closely at the build quality before I committed.

Regards,
Larry

[Randy Henry]

#1 on what Joseph said. I bought one last winter, tried it, spent more time working on it, than with it. Tried several different types of blades, no luck. The saw just flexes too much. I was able to sell mine for more than I paid for it, and I used the money to upgrade to a Griz 17. If I would have asked $800 for that saw, I would have ripped the new buyer off, and that's not the way I operate. I was totally upfront witht the new buyer, showed him the flex issues... While the Griz is not an Agazzani or MM, it suits me just fine. If the deposit is not too much to lose, I'd walk.

[Van Huskey]

The bottom line is this saw is not a good saw for resawing, period. It depends on how you plan to use it. The saw will work fine for contour cutting and light resaws, it is a prime target for people that have a more capable resaw machine but want a second saw for contour cutting but want more throat depth than a 14" saw. Lots of these saws are abused by owners because they can't see the tell tale signs of passing the saws capability and try to ham fist it into submission, the good thing about this saw is it has not been used much if any so depending on the planned use it could be a bargain or it could be useless.

The Rikon 14" saw mentioned is indeed a great saw but it too has limitations and I see it as inadequate for me, for a countour saw I need more throat depth and much better guides and for a resaw I need more height, HP, tension ability and overall mass, but it is fine if it's limitations don't hinder its use for whomever owns it. As with any saw the OP needs to define his needs and determine what saw within his budget will cover those needs.

[Tim Boger]

The bottom line is this saw is not a good saw for resawing, period. It depends on how you plan to use it. The saw will work fine for contour cutting and light resaws, it is a prime target for people that have a more capable resaw machine but want a second saw for contour cutting but want more throat depth than a 14" saw. Lots of these saws are abused by owners because they can't see the tell tale signs of passing the saws capability and try to ham fist it into submission, the good thing about this saw is it has not been used much if any so depending on the planned use it could be a bargain or it could be useless.

The Rikon 14" saw mentioned is indeed a great saw but it too has limitations and I see it as inadequate for me, for a countour saw I need more throat depth and much better guides and for a resaw I need more height, HP, tension ability and overall mass, but it is fine if it's limitations don't hinder its use for whomever owns it. As with any saw the OP needs to define his needs and determine what saw within his budget will cover those needs.

Makes perfect sense, thank's for taking the time to be specific.

Historically I've not been able to afford the upper end of the price range for the woodworking tools I want / need. I have learned to expect from the tool what it can do without force and to be satified with that .... I don't by junk and don't think this Jet will be a disappointment, at least considering what I expect from it.

Tim

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Joseph,
I don't understand your hatred for this saw :). When you posted about the issues previously it sounded like the main problem was a blade with a bad weld:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?179121-18-quot-bandsaw&p=1844846&highlight=#post1844846

Did you find more things you dislike?

I do agree that for 800$ one should consider the Rikon as well. And it may very well be a better saw, I have not used one so I don't know. But the Jet has been great for me. My only gripes:
1) It is difficult to adjust the lower guides when you change blade widths significantly. If you have to move the guide assembly forward/back good it will take a while and will be frustrating!
2) The table feels a little thin/flimsy when I put huge chunks of wood on it (say to make a 12"x10" high bowl blank).
3) The trunion locking mechanism is not good.
4) The fence is difficult to adjust precisely.

Other than that I am very pleased. I have a woodslicer band on mine and it rips and resaws wonderfully! The saw is also very smooth running. And as a happy surprise DC works well with a single 4" DC hookup.
Salem

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Van,
It is possible that I just don't know what "good resawing" is but it works great for my hobby use. I have resawed 10" maple multiple times with it. I have not however cut veneer.

I use a 1/2" ~3-4 TPI woodslicer. The surface it leaves is great! You have to hold it at an angle to see the saw marks.
Salem

[Van Huskey]

Salem. you are using a proper blade for that saw for resawing, narrow, very thin gauge and little to no set. It requires significantly less tension than most blades people use to resaw with and is perfect for that saw. This is what I was trying to get at, don't over tax this saw and it will be fine, but you have to understand its limitations. The saw will resaw up to its height but you can't throw on a thick 3/4 or 1" carbide blade and just go to town on 10" Jatoba which you can on a select few 18" saws. As for your results I am not surprised, you have the right blade and obviously set the saw up correctly and have good technique, get any of those wrong and this particular saw will cry uncle before some others.

As far as the service network it varies based on where you live, my WMH service is handled but a very busy and effective company, when I have called they were sent to my house and knew what they needed and what they were doing, this varies from area to area, they are contracted, some areas just don't have enough woodworking going on to support good repair techs. The same is true for dealers, my dealer is large, they have over 100 machines from 8 or 9 brands and mainly sell to professionals, they are excellent, some dealers just aren't, we have them around here too. I have brands that I will NOT buy from but oddly enough due to past experience but I actually do recommend them when the budget and situation call for it since I know my personal feelings are not universal and these brands do indeed have good tools for the price in their range.


In the end with this saw as with every machine, now your needs and know the machines limitations and how that compares with others in the price range. I would have no issues with having this saw in my shop (then I am unlikely to turn any bandsaw away) but I would not expect it to displace my MM20 for resawing nor even if I didn't have other bandsaws would I buy this one if my primary goal was resawing.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Van,
I found out about the woodslicer blades when I had a 14" Delta. And when I moved to a larger saw I bought the same bands. What are the benefits of the wider bands? I get great stability out of this 1/2" band. Straight cuts, no twisting or wondering etc. And they even stay sharp for long enough that it isn't an issue for my use. I could see the carbide tipped bands lasting longer but other than that what is the benefit?
Thanks!
Salem

[Van Huskey]

Van,
I found out about the woodslicer blades when I had a 14" Delta. And when I moved to a larger saw I bought the same bands. What are the benefits of the wider bands? I get great stability out of this 1/2" band. Straight cuts, no twisting or wondering etc. And they even stay sharp for long enough that it isn't an issue for my use. I could see the carbide tipped bands lasting longer but other than that what is the benefit?
Thanks!
Salem

Width and gauge both contribute to beam strength. Beam strength comes from the high tension which requires a certain level of strength in the spring/tensioning area and frame strength. The higher tension causes the frequency of vibration in the blade to become higher and the amplitude becomes smaller providing a smoother finish surface. The added beam strength resists rearward deflection of the blade and increased tension rssists twisting of the blade. All this results in a cleaner cut. The carbide tipped blades also have zero set and tend to polish the cut to some degree like a table saw blade, the fact they outlast something like a hardened spring steel blade like the Woodslicer by well over 10 times and can be resharpened make them better long term economy.

Regarding the Woodslicer, it is an excellent blade made from Atlanta Sharptech stock, borrowed from the meat cutting industry. Both Iturra and Spectrum supply sell the same blade stock for less money, Spectrum is near 50% less on some lengths and both do welds as good or better than Highlands supplier (both do theirs in house).
If I am not mistaken that Jet takes a 137" blade and given the way Highland sells their blades (one price per range of lengths) a 137" blade is a best buy from them with the 1/2" being $30 their lowest price stops at 137", Spectrum is a little under $20 for that blade, but for a 14" Delta with no riser the Highland rpice is still $30 where the Spectrum blade is less than $16. Spectrum has 4 different width/gauge combos as well. Iturra's prices are in the middle.

[Tim Boger]

Width and gauge both contribute to beam strength. Beam strength comes from the high tension which requires a certain level of strength in the spring/tensioning area and frame strength. The higher tension causes the frequency of vibration in the blade to become higher and the amplitude becomes smaller providing a smoother finish surface. The added beam strength resists rearward deflection of the blade and increased tension rssists twisting of the blade. All this results in a cleaner cut. The carbide tipped blades also have zero set and tend to polish the cut to some degree like a table saw blade, the fact they outlast something like a hardened spring steel blade like the Woodslicer by well over 10 times and can be resharpened make them better long term economy.

Regarding the Woodslicer, it is an excellent blade made from Atlanta Sharptech stock, borrowed from the meat cutting industry. Both Iturra and Spectrum supply sell the same blade stock for less money, Spectrum is near 50% less on some lengths and both do welds as good or better than Highlands supplier (both do theirs in house).
If I am not mistaken that Jet takes a 137" blade and given the way Highland sells their blades (one price per range of lengths) a 137" blade is a best buy from them with the 1/2" being $30 their lowest price stops at 137", Spectrum is a little under $20 for that blade, but for a 14" Delta with no riser the Highland rpice is still $30 where the Spectrum blade is less than $16. Spectrum has 4 different width/gauge combos as well. Iturra's prices are in the middle.

Sure learning a lot about blade selection here, apparently (particularly with this saw) the proper blade can be the difference between satisfied or disappointed with the tools function. Is the 1.5' woodslicer blade good for light duty ripping of dimensional lumber, occasional re-sawing and now and then rounding bowl blanks from rough log material?

Tim

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I would say the woodslicer is awful for green woods or for turns. It has so little set that it won't cut an arc at all. It does wonderful in a straight line though! I buy mine from woodcraftbands.com. I know highland sells a band explicitly for cutting green lumber. If I can find a cheaper source for the same blade stock I will try one of those out.

I don't think any one band will do everything you are asking for.
Salem

[Jack Wilson]

hello tim......here's my 18" jet BS:

232916

cost me $40 (no typo) on CL and i paid too much for it. get your deposit back and look elsewhere. IMHO, the saw is marginal, at best, and the WMH tool group (owners of jet, powermatic and wilton) are only interested in trading on the past reputation of their brands. their tech support capabilities are limited to sending out replacement parts for tools under warranty and little else. should you need any sort of technical suppoprt, you will be totally on your own. and as for their authorized dealer network, it's even more useless than the tech support. @ $800, that saw is seriously overpriced for the performance it will deliver to you. the rikon 10-325 that was recently reduced @ woodcraft is a better saw for about the same price with 13" of resaw rather than the jet's 10". just my $.02.
Boy did you get suckered! I'm with the government, and I'm here to help! I'll give you $50 for it to help compensate you for your troubles. Let me know.

[Van Huskey]

Salem are you saying John (woodcraftbands) sells a Woodslicer like blade? I didn't know he sold one, I thought all he sold was Lenox, Starrett and those cheapy spring steel blades.

Salem is correct in that the Woodslicer is BAD for anything but a straight line. The lack of set and relativly wide blade leave no room for the back of the blade to go when you try to turn it, heat burning and a ruined blade will result.

Tim, are your blanks green or dry?

[Tim Boger]

Salem are you saying John (woodcraftbands) sells a Woodslicer like blade? I didn't know he sold one, I thought all he sold was Lenox, Starrett and those cheapy spring steel blades.

Salem is correct in that the Woodslicer is BAD for anything but a straight line. The lack of set and relativly wide blade leave no room for the back of the blade to go when you try to turn it, heat burning and a ruined blade will result.

Tim, are your blanks green or dry?

Mornin'

I have both wet and dry blanks ......I would think that what little raw blank style of wood prep I do the material will be drier than wet.

I have come to understand that there are specific blades for specific tasks, since compromise is a day to day occurrence with me I was hoping that I could choose a blade that would function reasonably well in a wider range of roles. Lets say that 10% of the time I'll be cutting partially dry blanks into rounds, minimum diameter 5-6 inch, typically 10" to 14". Then I'll likely spend 15% to 25% of the time working with dimensional lumber 6" and less re-sawing it, while the rest of the time the saw will be simply ripping 1" rough sawn material for segmented preparation.

I would prefer not to require a blade change on the 18" Jet every time I decide to butcher up a bowl blank .... once or twice a month. (I only get weekends in the shop)

My current 14" jet will be assigned to cutting tighter radius designs for band saw boxes and such things now with a 1/8" blade ..... that's my plan anyhow.

What blade selections would you recommend?

Thanks for the help.

Tim

[brian c miller]

How did I miss this??? I have been checking the Columbia, Greenville, Asheville, Charlotte, and Charleston craigslist pretty regularly.

Nice find, if you can get your resaw issues figured out.

I work over in Lexington, I live in Irmo.

[Van Huskey]

@ brian do you have both bandsaw and band saw (the latter brings up a bunch of concert stuff) people often mis-spell bandsaw. The same with planAr, joiner etc.

@ Tim the problem is green wood will be the limiting factor so you are going to need a lot of set. I would try this http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturners-bandsawblade.aspx

It will resaw and rip but the finish won't be as nice as more appropriate blades. You may ask in the turners forum and/or call Louis Iturra since green wood blades is an area I have limited experience.

[Tim Boger]

@ brian do you have both bandsaw and band saw (the latter brings up a bunch of concert stuff) people often mis-spell bandsaw. The same with planAr, joiner etc.

@ Tim the problem is green wood will be the limiting factor so you are going to need a lot of set. I would try this http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturners-bandsawblade.aspx

It will resaw and rip but the finish won't be as nice as more appropriate blades. You may ask in the turners forum and/or call Louis Iturra since green wood blades is an area I have limited experience.

Thanks Van for the specific info, now knowing more about the limiting factors of blades will help me choose appropriately.

Tim

[brian c miller]

I have been looking to buy a bandsaw for a while. I don't have this particular saw. Good point about the spelling...



Thanks Van for the specific info, now knowing more about the limiting factors of blades will help me choose appropriately.

Tim

[Joseph Tarantino]

Boy did you get suckered! I'm with the government, and I'm here to help! I'll give you $50 for it to help compensate you for your troubles. Let me know.

thanks for the offer. but when i've tested the waters on CL, there are actually a fair number of buyers out there willing to spend upwards of $700 for that saw. but i'll keep that kind offer in mind.:)

[Joseph Tarantino]

Joseph,
I don't understand your hatred for this saw :). When you posted about the issues previously it sounded like the main problem was a blade with a bad weld:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?179121-18-quot-bandsaw&p=1844846&highlight=#post1844846

Did you find more things you dislike?

I do agree that for 800$ one should consider the Rikon as well. And it may very well be a better saw, I have not used one so I don't know. But the Jet has been great for me. My only gripes:
1) It is difficult to adjust the lower guides when you change blade widths significantly. If you have to move the guide assembly forward/back good it will take a while and will be frustrating!
2) The table feels a little thin/flimsy when I put huge chunks of wood on it (say to make a 12"x10" high bowl blank).
3) The trunion locking mechanism is not good.
4) The fence is difficult to adjust precisely.

Other than that I am very pleased. I have a woodslicer band on mine and it rips and resaws wonderfully! The saw is also very smooth running. And as a happy surprise DC works well with a single 4" DC hookup.
Salem

you are right about one thing. the dust collection on that BS is very good. aside from the saw's limitations (and you've covered a few of the more glaring faults), the parent company, wmh tool group, is utterly useless. tech support is limited to sending out replacement parts for tools under warranty. once your warranty expires, should the need for true diagnostic assistance arise, they are just so terribly poor at providing it. one would think that the vaunted jet brand's tech support staff, with their wealth of experience, when presented with a video of my original problem, would at least SUGGEST the possibility of a defective blade. they are just so mediocre, yet they hold themselves out as the "gold sdtandard".

[Van Huskey]

one would think that the vaunted jet brand's tech support staff, with their wealth of experience, when presented with a video of my original problem, would at least SUGGEST the possibility of a defective blade. they are just so mediocre, yet they hold themselves out as the "gold sdtandard".

In the end your experience is quite different from the experience of others but that is true for most every single Asian import company, most woodworkers won't pay for quality so that is what we have. W

WHM is actually one of the very few manufacturers that will provide in-home/shop service.


I am curious have YOU ever had a warranty claim handled by WHM?

BTW show me one bit of marketing where Jet holds themselves out at "The Gold Standard" as you say. Hint: don't waste your time looking for it.

[Jack Wilson]

thanks for the offer. but when i've tested the waters on CL, there are actually a fair number of buyers out there willing to spend upwards of $700 for that saw. but i'll keep that kind offer in mind.:)

Well, I WAS just thinking of you!