Dissolving urea-formaldehyde glue?

[Zach Dillinger]

Ok, so I'm usually a Neanderthal Haven poster, but this question seems to fit here better. Second only to woodworking is my passion for tennis. I especially love to play with vintage wood racquets. I decided to try to make a copy of one of the best wood racquets of all time, the Dunlop Maxply Fort.

I just so happen to have a damaged one that I was thinking of pulling apart to reverse engineer. However, the frame itself is glued with RF cured urea formaldehyde glue (according to racquet history sites). I have no idea how to weaken this glue so that I can start to pull off the handle flakes, the u frame, etc. My woodwork uses hide glue, so I have no experience with this type of glue. Does anyone have any tips on how to weaken the bond so that I can pull it apart without damaging the component pieces?

Thanks,

Zach

[ian maybury]

Sorry I can't be more specific Zach, but my guess is that there's no easy way. UF glues are pretty highly solvent and heat resistant so far as I can tell. There may be a solvent that can shift it, but if so (and it may not) it's probably going to be one of the nastier ones that you really don't want to be around like methylene chloride.

The data sheets I've seen basically say get it off while it's still uncured, or it's down to chiseling, sanding and the like.

My first move would probably be to call tech support at one of the manufacturers of a UF adhesive, and ask them.

ian

[Howard Acheson]

I will second Ian's comments and suggestions. Contacting someone like DAP/Weldwood would be the place I would start.

In addition, I just saw somewhere that DAP/Weldwood has discontinued the manufacture of their UF DAP/Weldwood Plastic Resin. You may have problems finding a source for UF adhesive.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

[QUOTE=
In addition, I just saw somewhere that DAP/Weldwood has discontinued the manufacture of their UF DAP/Weldwood Plastic Resin. You may have problems finding a source for UF adhesive.[/QUOTE]

What a sad day for woodworkers. Spruce Goose, wood airplane, wings still straight as a board with 20,000 lbs of engines and propellers on each side, after 60 years. Made only of wood and glued together with UF glues.
20 minutes of open time with right temperature, and I have never had a UF glue joint fail in 50 years of woodworking. Tom

[Van Huskey]

Nothing to add other than lament the loss of UF glues, if it is the case and to ask if I am correct and that was McEnroe's favorite racket, I was a Conners fan thus a T2000 way my choice...

[George Gyulatyan]

There is still Unibond 800 no? DAP isn't the only game in town for UF glues as far as I know.

[Zach Dillinger]

Nothing to add other than lament the loss of UF glues, if it is the case and to ask if I am correct and that was McEnroe's favorite racket, I was a Conners fan thus a T2000 way my choice...

Yup, Mac loved the Maxply Fort. They even made a special version of it specifically for him in 1982. I've been looking for a reasonably priced Maxply McEnroe for years but they go for more than I'm willing to pay. Connors was a character for sure, but Mac and Borg are my favorite players of all time. The T-2000 is a beast, for sure.

Thanks for the all the input guys. I have it on good authority (no less than an industrial chemist!) that UF glue is completely and totally irreversible. Once its stuck its stuck. So, I'm stuck trying to reverse engineer the darn thing without being able to take it apart. Darn it all.

[Mike Henderson]

There are a number of companies who make UF glues. If DAP has decided to discontinue their powdered UF I'm sure it's because it wasn't selling, not because they couldn't get some of the ingredients.

Unibond and Proglue are two that come to mind immediately.

Mike

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> There is still Unibond 800 no?

Yes, there are some alternatives but they are not as readily available to the small workshop. Epoxies have just about pushed the UF out of the market.

[ian maybury]

They have all it seems been under pressure for some time because of formaldehyde emission. Which might be a big deal if you were gluing up 8x4 sheets, but hardly so on cabinet making joints.

I used quite a lot of it back in the early 70s building wooden kayaks, it was nice stuff. Rigid, strong and sanded well.

You're making me feel old with the McEnroe stuff...

ian

[Van Huskey]

If you do figure it out make sure you document the build, I have NO inetetion of trying it but would love to see the process!

[Peter Quinn]

>>>> There is still Unibond 800 no?

Yes, there are some alternatives but they are not as readily available to the small workshop. Epoxies have just about pushed the UF out of the market.

You can buy weldwood ( or could) at the little true value hardware down the street from my shop. Uni bond, not so much. And they sold it in small quantities.