Deft gloss help...

[Steve Vaughan]

I'm finishing a platter/shallow maple bowl with Deft spray gloss lacquer. I don't use gloss lacquer too often, but this particular project, that's what it's gotta be. The gloss so far looks really good, but isn't where I'd like for it to be. I need it smoother. It's not the wood, it's been sanded out fine, followed by several coats clear shellac, sanded out really fine with #0000 steel wool. I really need to buff it out to smooth the finish out a bit. So, my question is this - What do you guys use to buff out gloss lacquer? I'm thinking that I will need to let the lacquer cure for several days, then followed by an automotive compound polish then a buff wax? I'm attempting slick and smooth here.

[David DeCristoforo]

First off, wet sand with 220, 320, 400 and 600. Then automotive rubbing compound followed by polishing compound and buffing will bring lacquer up to a high gloss. But you want to make sure you have a good coat so you don't cut through the lacquer (rubbing compound can be surprisingly aggressive). Buff with a light touch because the heat from a fast buffing wheel can "melt" the lacquer, bumping you back to square one.

[Thom Sturgill]

First off, the difference between 'gloss lacquer' and 'satin lacquer' is the amount of solids in the formula. Satin lacquer can be finished to just as glossy a finish as gloss lacquer. I wet sand starting at 400 grit with the sealer and then up to 1500 with the sealer. I start sanding the lacquer at 800 or 1000 and work up to at least 2-4K between coats using mineral spirits liberally as a lubricant and a paper towel to catch dust. I go to 6-8000 using polishing cloths and mineral spirits on the lathe if I can find them :p By the time I am up to 2000 grit there should be no blemishes. 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit 'wet or dry' papers are usually available at auto parts places and woodcraft sells the polishing cloths.
Let cure for a week before power buffing. As David said, heat is your enemy and can remove the finish in a heart beat. Machine buffing is not needed if you used polishing cloths to 8000 or higher.

[Doug Herzberg]

+1 on the heat from power buffing, especially if you're not used to lacquer. If you feel you have to, practice on some scrap wood. It reaches melting temperature surprisingly quickly. Good luck.

[Steve Vaughan]

You know how you feel when that light bulb pops up right over your head? Duh me. I use the semi-gloss and and satin all the time and for what I do, sanding and buffing with steel wool is all I need. And you're right about the heat...just messed a finish up the other day with the buffing wheel. Just won't paying attention.

Dang, I knew about the wet sanding but definitely not to the clarification you're given me here. That is a HUGE help. My question was gonna be what to use with the wet sanding - I've heard of using the mineral spirits and I was wondering about soapy water. I'm thinking the MS would be more consistent.

Thanks guys! I'll post a pick in a couple weeks when I get this thing finished. I think you're gonna like it!

[Thomas Canfield]

[QUOTE=Thom Sturgill;1930190]First off, the difference between 'gloss lacquer' and 'satin lacquer' is the amount of solids in the formula. Satin lacquer can be finished to just as glossy a finish as gloss lacquer.

I was told that you can dull gloss finish, but cannot gloss up satin finish due to the solids added to give the satin finish. The solids in the layers of finish prevent the light refraction that is possible with gloss finish. I am not an expert on finish and someone can add to this. For my personal use I only buy the gloss now and then buff the final to lower sheen.