I think its time for this to go around again.........

[Bill Huber]

I think I have posted it and I know others have but I think it is time for this to go around again.

SAW JAWS

For me this is one of the greatest gadgets or what ever you want to call them for the shop.

The thing is great for removing the blade, just clamp it on and then remove the arbor nut and lift the blade right out with a nice big handle, no chance of hitting a tooth on the edge of the saw.

Store the blade just about any place you want and it is still protected, no banging the teeth or cutting yourself with it.

Then when you are ready to switch blades and put it back on its the same. A nice big handle to hole the blade with to put it on the arbor and again, no chance of hitting a tooth.

I have one for each of my good blades and they really work great, and a little side thing is you will never put the blade on backwards.

The way I look at it is for $16 it is great insurance.

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[Gordon Eyre]

Looks goodl but where did you get it from?

[Bill Huber]

Looks goodl but where did you get it from?

I think the last ones I ordered I got from Lee Valley, they are $15.90.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=51522&cat=1,240,45884&ap=1

[Bruce Page]

But it won't keep me from dropping the nut..:rolleyes:

[Ken Fitzgerald]

But it won't keep me from dropping the nut..:rolleyes:

Yes....and my saw has an undertable, around the blade DC hood. Care guess how many times I have removed the DC hose to retrieve the nut that holds the blade on?:confused::o

[Van Huskey]

They are very cool and useful but since I push a button to lock my arbor I have never bothered to get one. Good point about keept your hands and blade safe though.

[Bill Huber]

They are very cool and useful but since I push a button to lock my arbor I have never bothered to get one. Good point about keept your hands and blade safe though.

I don't use it to hold the blade to tighten it or loosen it, I have a wench for that, one for each side of the blade. I use it to protect the blade and it makes it so much easier to hand then just the blade by itself plus you never bang a tooth or yourself.

[Bill White]

Sure do like mine.
Bill

[Kent A Bathurst]

Yes....and my saw has an undertable, around the blade DC hood. Care guess how many times I have removed the DC hose to retrieve the nut that holds the blade on?:confused::o

Ken........I have found it easier to simply turn on the DC, and then get the nut - and washer - from on top of the pile of shavings in the collection drum. :D :D

[Alan Bienlein]

You know if you stick your index finger in the nut when you got to install it and twist it on with your thumb and middle finger you wouldn't drop the nut anymore.
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[Matt Day]

i have one of those telescoping rare earth magnets that i put down through the insert opening to pick up the nut when i drop it. works like a charm!

[Alan Lightstone]

i have one of those telescoping rare earth magnets that i put down through the insert opening to pick up the nut when i drop it. works like a charm!Hmmmm......Boy, I hate dropping the nut.As to the Saw Jaws, to me it's a solution in search of a problem.

[Ryan Baker]

You know if you stick your index finger in the nut when you got to install it and twist it on with your thumb and middle finger you wouldn't drop the nut anymore.
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Yes! I've been doing that for a long time and it works like a charm. The only problem is that the table opening is small enough that it is sometimes hard to get my hand down in there with your finger curved into the nut. Still, it is good to have a magnetic retriever or gripper tool around for those times when you drop the darn thing anyway.

[Dan Rude]

Bill, I have been using them for years too. I have enough of them that I store my blades in them. Rockler carried them and would discount them towards the end of the sales when they did not sell all of them. The newer ones are orange.
Dan

[Bill Geibe]

<<I don't use it to hold the blade to tighten it or loosen it, I have a wench for that, one for each side of the blade.>>

That's handy to have several wenches around to do that. Do you have to pay them much?

(Sorry, I couldn't resist!)

Bill

[Rich Engelhardt]

Yes....and my saw has an undertable, around the blade DC hood. Care guess how many times I have removed the DC hose to retrieve the nut that holds the blade on

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-telescoping-magnet-37187.html

Best $4.00 I spent in many a year...

[Bill Huber]

<<I don't use it to hold the blade to tighten it or loosen it, I have a wench for that, one for each side of the blade.>>

That's handy to have several wenches around to do that. Do you have to pay them much?

(Sorry, I couldn't resist!)

Bill

No, they come cheap... I have them clean up the shop also....:rolleyes::D

[Bill Geibe]

For those of you that have Unisaws, there is an optional nut kit that is easier to handle. The blade nut has a un-threaded, knurled portion that goes toward the blade. When you unscrew it, as the threads disengage the nut stays on the arbor instead of dropping. The flange is built-in, too. The kit comes with another nut without a flange for dado heads. The two nuts looks like this:

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I got a set a couple months ago and since then I think I only dropped the nut into the cabinet once, as opposed to what seemed to be about every other blade change before. The kit runs about $25-$30 and comes in right-hand and left-hand versions. I got mine from Mike's Tools and he was good to deal with. http://www.mikestools.com/36-659-Delta-Arbor-Nut-Assembly-Rt-Tilt-Table-Saws.aspx

Whether these fit Delta contractor saws, I do not know. I do know that they don't work on my Sears RAS, even though the arbor is the same 5/8". The threads are different.

Bill

[Ron Kellison]

Ken........I have found it easier to simply turn on the DC, and then get the nut - and washer - from on top of the pile of shavings in the collection drum. :D :D
So how much noise does the nut make when it goes through the impeller blades? :<)